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Old 03-23-2006, 07:24 PM   #1
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Replacing toilet in 66' Tradewind

We need to replace the toilet that is in our 66' Tradewind. Can anyone out there give us an idea of what toilet will fit under that fiberglass bench. The pedal part broke on the casing (this trailer sat for 25 years and we are cleaning her up and making repairs). I hate to think of having to modify the area where the new pedal will go but I guess I have no choice. Thanks, Mark and Susie
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Old 03-24-2006, 12:15 PM   #2
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I am running into the same problem with my 66 safari. Which I've since gutted the entire bathroom for floor replacement. I took the toilet out first without removing the fiberglass 'top'. The only way I could remove was to split it at the center where it bolts together and take out as two pieces. I now have everything out. I seems all the new toilets are single units. Not sure how you would reinstall under the fiberglass from the rear access door. I hope someone else can offer suggestions.
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:12 PM   #3
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I've seen a few pictures in the vintage airstream web site, but they used a toilet that has the flush buttons on top. It looks as if the toilet was dropped down from the top. I have a friend who is a rv service mechanic but I am waiting till the weather gets warmer so we can run water in the lines. I don't think he is going to be much help when it comes to the toilet. Thanks, Susie
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:11 PM   #4
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Wow, there seems to be a rush of bad '66 toilets this week. We just heard from the factory that ours is bad on our Overlander. I'm just beginning to research what our options might be, but will certainly be watching this thread closely for any tips!
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:25 PM   #5
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A Thetford Bravurra low-profile toilet should fit in the spot. Don't get the high-profile unit, it will never fit in the space you have.
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:01 PM   #6
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[quote=Gingergirl]I've seen a few pictures in the vintage airstream web site, but they used a toilet that has the flush buttons on top. It looks as if the toilet was dropped down from the top.

The Thetford Aria II has flush bottons on the top.......electric flush too!
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:16 AM   #7
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No ideas on the toilet but wanted to say Hi! Welcome to the forums!

Another 66 Tradewind!!! Yay!
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:21 AM   #8
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I had a bad toilet too....

Our 65 Overlander had a bad toilet also. The bowl and pedal was working just fine, but whatever mechanism that regulated the water was broken and I couldn't find anyway to repair it. I really wanted to stay with a porcelain bowl, but could not find one I thought would work and ended up fitting in a Aqua Majic V. This is the high profile model and it came in "parchment" color that matched the fiberglass bench very well. I started the install by removing the seat from the toilet and tracing it on the bench and cutting out the shape. The Aqua Majic V has a lip around the bowl that was the same height as the bench, so I continued cutiing away fiberglass until the toilet fit perfectly. NOTE*** the black water tank had to be moved back approx. 4" to accomodate the new toilet. This was not problem with my install, as I had to replace the bath floor anyways, but keep that in mind if you choose this route! Here are some pics of the install:
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Old 03-30-2006, 10:15 PM   #9
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Streamin 65,
That is a great toilet solution. How are you going to flush? Original had a foot flush outside of the fiberglass facia.
Lots of questions. Were you able to remove the fiberglass unit from the trailer while replacing your floor? I've been told that everything should fit out the door, but don't see how this entire unit will fit. I haven't removed the sink portion yet. Does this allow the tub/toilet unit to flex enough to remove? Currently I have the whole thing on the front gaucho.
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Old 04-03-2006, 04:46 PM   #10
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Hey Burnzee,
The
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Old 04-03-2006, 06:00 PM   #11
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Hey Burnzee

I don't know why the rest of the last post didn't show up, so here goes again. The Aqua Magic V is also a foot flush toilet. The original toilet was also a foot flush, but had a smaller pedal bolted to the larger one. The smaller one is what protruded through the fiberglass fascia. I plan on removing the little extension pedal from the original toilet, bolting it to the new toilet and reinstalling the fascia. Although it has not been completed yet. I removed the sink first on my remodel, but the fiberglass tub/bench unit was still to big to get out of the bedroom without gutting everything forward, so it stayed on the bed until I reinstalled it. I painted the whole unit with American Traditions plastic enamel in vanilla from Lowes which matched the existing color so well it was hard to tell what I had painted and what wasn't. The paint has held up well. How far are you on your remodel? --dave
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:32 PM   #12
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I have the exterior in good shape except I'll need an axle. Most of the interior is OK, but y bathroom is gutted due the need to replace the floor first. Almost all the floor damage was due to a leak at the rear access door, and I can't seem to get it to quit. Need to stop the leak prior to putting in the new floor. Did yours leak?

I like the idea for the foot flush. Mine also had one originally that came through a slot in the facia panel. I was thinking I could rig up a deal that connected from the original to the new foot flush on the toilet so that when you pushed down on the original it then pushed down on the new one. I think this is what you were talking about? It's nice to communicate with someone with the same toilet layout/configuration. It seems these 66 versions are unique (3 years?)

Can I ask a question about the floor replacement? Did you have to take the lower belt line off the exterior to slide in the new plywood? I was originally going to do it all from the interior, but if you could get it in from the exterior it could be one solid piece from the last outrigger to the rear end and not two pieces spit at the main frame member.

thanks
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Old 04-05-2006, 05:42 PM   #13
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I did my floor replacement completely from inside. If possible, salvage the old floor to use as a pattern, it'll speed things up when cutting the new. There were many fasteners holding the old floor down around the perimeter of the trailer that I had to cut off before the new wood could be installed. Some I had to cut with a saw-zall and some with an air powered cutoff wheel. Also, there are two bolts that run through the frame at the rear of the trailer on either side of the access door through the channel that the body is fastened to. I had to cut a "flap" in the inner skin to get at the nuts on those. The bolts run through a 1" by 3" or so piece of steel that acts as a square washer, for lack of better words, that secures the body to the frame. I'd suggest drilling the holes in the new wood for these bolts before installing the new floor. I did not do this step on mine first, and have not been able to replace those bolts and washers yet. The rear has started to separate a little bit due to this. (A right angle drill is in the near future to drill those holes from underneath so I can reinstall those bolts/washers and solve that problem) I started the floor installation at the very rear 2 feet or so of the trailer first. That enabled me to cut the wood to fit in the channel tightly. (I used a 2x4 against the plywood and tapped it in with a sledge hammer). I then "sprung" the next piece in and it also fit tight in the channel. For fasteners, I used 1 5/8" self tapping screws, but still had to drill 1/8" pilot holes first for them. I also used screws from the underside to fasten the floor to the channel at the perimeter of the trailer. I do not know where the leak was that caused the original floor to rot, but I check back there on occasion and have found it to be dry so far. --dave
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:29 PM   #14
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Some pix of my bath floor.

I found some pix I took of the bathroom floor during the work. In the first pic, note where the frame meets the shell at the rear of the trailer. Just inside the inner skin is where the bolts with the square washers I mentioned are. In the second pic, you'll see 4 holes drilled in a row on the frame. I found that by taking a junk hole saw and starting the pilot just next to the elevator bolt that holds the floor down, I could drill a larger hole around the elevator bolt and just lift the floor out without damaging it any more. This enabled me to use the old flooring as a template. The elevator bolts will not come off easy anyway, the factory bolted the floor down and bent the rest of the bolt to keep it from coming loose, so plan on doing a lot of cutting to remove them.
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