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Old 05-23-2006, 12:10 AM   #41
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1960 24' Tradewind
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Hello Gingergirl,

Mark an myself must have the same ideas going on because thats exactly the way to do it ,basically word for word .I had to remove the old Y tail piece to restore my brass gate valve and build a new tail Y piece from brass this time.
Had to do what you guys did ,laying under the curbside rear of my 60 trdwnd.
GreatPumkin ,Gingergirls answer is your answer to get that apart.

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Old 05-23-2006, 08:24 PM   #42
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Repaired and Working once again!

Well we just got back from our trip to the Buffalo River and I wanted to post an update to our solution for two leaky gate valves (one toilet valve, one tank valve) and a cracked black tank.

As a reminder, we have a '66 Overlander with a Thetford Porcelain toilet. The whole system needed to be fixed or replaced, and we concentrated on repair since we were short on time.

We tracked down a repair kit for the stainless backed thetford valves, and were able to replace the interior gasket on the dump valve. (Took the valve apart and inserted new rubber gasket inside.) We figured this was the most important valve to fix and could only find one kit.

Having previously bought the incorrect repair kit for an all plastic valve, we took one of the o-rings from it to re-seat the toilet valve back into the toilet assembly and merely lubricated the interior valve gasket with silicone as it looked to be in ok condition. This valve still leaks a tiny bit, but quite frankly the toilet bowl does not really need to hold water, so no worries. The leak goes straight into the black tank.

Now, the black tank we sealed with plastic epoxy (about four tubes worth) and it appears to be performing very well so far. When the time comes we will replace the tank with a new one but we were in a hurry to get on the road and the tank is in otherwise very very good condition. The dump valve here still leaks a bit also - I think this is because, even though we replaced the gasket, either the blade is too worn to give a good seal or - the entire assembly is a bit weak due to a couple of the corners where it mounts to the tank were broken. We patched these corners with metal plates before mounting but perhaps the valve just does not seal as well as before due to being a bit "loose".

The fix for that, since we were getting on the road, was quite easy. Found an expandable rubber drain plug at Lowe's, the kind you put in a floor drain and when you screw the wing nut tight on top, it flattens out making it fit snugly into the drain. The outlet from the tank is about 3" ID, bought a 2 1/2" (I think, the large one was too big I recall) plug that fits just GREAT and completely stops the tiny leak. We did have to buy two of the plugs - they have a metal top and bottom, and the top is too big to fit the outlet. The bottom metal plate though is just fine, so we replaced the top plate with a second bottom plate from the other plug. Used long needle nose pliers to tighten after putting the plug into the outlet just past where the grey water outlet joins it, so we could still use the portable grey tank. Held like a charm.

Now, before you think "eww gross...what happened when you opened that plug up?" - let me just say that we only used the toilet for #1 and no paper was allowed in the tank. (By the way Target sells a great stainless steel toilet paper roll holder with a lid that makes a dandy tiny trash can for an Airstream bathroom!!) After adding some tank treatment, and using water to flush, the end result was really nothing much more than water, and only a tiny bit came out when the trailer was level and the plug was removed. Worked for us, but on the way home we went to Colaw's RV salvage on I-44 in Missouri and found a whole bin full of assorted Thetford valves. While nearly all of them were labeled as T-1169 models, they all seemed slightly different but we did actually find a lone stainless one that looks nearly identical to ours and so I hope to replace the tank dump valve with that one and get rid of the plug. $25 pricing was awesome!

They also had a whole box full of the repair kits for stainless valves if anyone needs them. I almost bought a bunch but...we may be going back in July if anyone wants me to pick up some.

This is getting long winded, but hopefully those looking to keep their old toilets and tanks will find the info useful. If you think about it, there is little to go wrong with the old toilets - there are basically a bowl with a valve and it is the valve that generally is going to go bad - specifically the gasket but sometimes the whole valve. If you don't mind getting in there and replacing stuff, you may very well be able to keep your rig original.

I will try to post some more pics and part numbers, etc or feel free to ask any questions. We love our original toilet, and getting it back in, along with the repaired tank, was actually a snap. MUCH easier than getting everything out. It's not a perfect fix yet, but we are content for now and hopefully with the replacement valve we will be back at 99% condition for as long as the black tank holds up! I can't say how much I enjoyed being able to use the toity in our home away from home for the first time - those early morning trips to the pit toilets were not my favorite part of camping!!!

Oh yeah, we had a great trip and look for a post soon about the Buffalo River National Park - it's really not to be missed if you like canoeing!!
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Old 08-18-2006, 09:32 AM   #43
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Replacement flange???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gingergirl
We had to remove the cast iron flange because the toilet mount holes were not aligned properly. The flange would not budge. We tried using a heat gun that was suggested by an rv tech, but that wouldn't work either. Soooooo, Mark got out his grinder and hack saw and went to work. He grinded off all that he could asnot to ruin the plastic threads. Then when we got to the inside part of the flange he used a hack saw and cut in 3 or 4 sections very carefully as not to go to deep. Then used visegrips to clamp on a section and started to wiggle it. He did have to make a cut about an 1/8" from another cut and tap that small piece out with a screwdriver so there was room for the bigger piece to come out. He worked from the outside and I helped from the inside because I could see with a light how deep the cuts were. It was a little time consuming, but well worth it. Then we replaced the flange, added the 2-1/2" Thetford riser, then the toilet. When we had everything together he said it looked "sweet". I will take some pictures because he has to remove toilet again so a friend can sweat in a copper line that came loose. As soon as that is going to happen (hopefully in the next week) I'll put in some pictures. If there is anything else we can help with, we'll do the best we can to answer.
We used your idea of cutting the 1/8" piece out and tapping it out with a screwdriver...worked like a charm! Then I simply unscrewed the hole rest of the flange. It came right out!!! Once I've ruined that part, where do I find a replacement for that flange???

We still have lots to do before replacing the toilet, but once we can start putting things back, I want to be prepared. We have a 68 Overlander.
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Old 08-27-2006, 10:24 AM   #44
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Just thought I would update our results with our repaired black tank and gate valves. (see earlier posts in this thread, or visit my photo gallery)

Have now taken the rig out three times with the new/repaired system and have had great luck. For a nominal cost and a bit of elbow grease we have thus far been able to salvage our original toilet system which would have otherwise have been a $650+ replacement. We have plenty of other places to spend that money elsewhere in the trailer!!
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Old 08-28-2006, 08:51 PM   #45
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Cool! We just got home tonite form a four night stay at Sleeping Bear dunes wiith ours. It's great to be able to take it on the road with the sytems working (mostly). Our problem this time was the bowl wouldn't hold water. If anyone has a good idea (and we tried the "Lift up the foot pedal" trick), lemme know. Good work on repairing rather than replacing your toilet! I'm going to be studying your pictures very closely.

Next question I have is, how much of your floor in the bathroom did your repair, where and how? I have some that needs it and like to hear about everyone's work.
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Old 08-29-2006, 10:08 AM   #46
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Hi John,
I can't believe you just got back from Sleeping Bear Dunes - we were staying just south of there in Manistee last week because we couldn't find an open space at a reasonable price in Leelanau County!!! We probably passed each other on the beach. My family has been vacationing in Empire for over 30 years, and we just last year sold our property up there which you may know as it was the 100+ year old school house on the corner of M-22 and M-72 right in Empire across from the Dunes ranger headquarters. Hope you had a great time - we got drenched on pack-up Saturday hooking up the trailer and had a soggy ride back to Indiana. What a small world! Do you guys go to the Bluebird for the world's best whitefish sandwhich?? Where did you stay?? How was it?

Anyway, back to the repairs. Yes we did repair some flooring, you may be able to see that in the photos or I might need to upload more. Ours was pretty rough just at the very back street side, presumably due to an old water heater leak. We opted to mount two pieces of sturdy 5/8" plywood cut to fit over the old soft wood and spanning across to the better flooring and secured with screws. This was easy enough as we had the toilet out. It seems to be fine for now, since there is enough solid floor left to hold things in place and the patch gives good re-inforcement. If you don't have a huge amount of rot this may work for you.

As for your bowl not holding water, you need to pick up one of those gasket repair kits for the stainless T-1169 valves and replace the inner gasket, or possibly the whole valve. (assuming you have the same toilet, I can't remember) But I would start with the gasket. They have a ton of the kits at Colaw's in MO and may have some replacement valves there too. Of course the only way to access that is to remove the toilet and take the valve apart, so in lieu of that did you try spraying inside the valve mechanism with silicone lubricant? The gasket is probably old and dry and that may help if you can get in there with a flashlight and see if you can access it. Feel free to PM me with any requests for photos or questions.

Next time you go to Leelanau County let me know!! We usually go two or three times a year.
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Old 08-29-2006, 10:30 AM   #47
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Not to get too far off topic but here goes:

We stayed at the DH Day campground. Went to kayak the whole time and the rustic campground, on the water, for $12 a night hit the spot. My other recommendation is that if you go up to stay at or in the area, look to State Forest Campgrounds. They are completely rustic, with only vault toilets and a hand pumped water well, but some of them are in the BEST spots, out of the way and hardly ever full, and again, $12 a night. There's one on Garey Lake, just 7 miles outside of Empire, and another on the Platte river outside of Honor. My buddies and I tented it at Garey lake earlier this month and it was nice.
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Old 08-29-2006, 12:36 PM   #48
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Ahh, I see - you were tenting. DH Day is nice, but alas no trailers. We were in the Airstream. Platte is a GREAT campground, but very very full in summer as in lines waiting to get in. Thanks for the update! I do prefer rustic sites but since we spent all that time repairing the A/S this spring, I am insisting on using her more!!

Let us know how your leaky bowl problem works out :-)
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Old 08-29-2006, 05:52 PM   #49
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Oh, no, we had the Safari. There were plenty of 30' fifth wheeler's in there too. Not every site is appropriate for even a 22' like us, but they have a lot that will take them. I just made sure we had a full battery and a full water tank. I brought the blue boy and a couple of 7 gallon jerry cans for fresh water. Only had to add water to the tanks once and the battery held up for four nights and five days of using the fantastic vent, the water pump and the lights. And we had plenty of juice left. The DH Day is perfect if you are willing to boondock, hey we even had hot showers, and flush toilets.

Just no AC and we didn't even need it.
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Old 08-29-2006, 06:51 PM   #50
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Hey, thanks for the tip! I thought they didn't allow trailers up there! Good to know :-)
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