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Streamin 65 · 04-16-2006, 07:56 AM

Well, I was out of town last week, so the axle turmoil will start this week. I've contacted a trailer shop in the big city who sells Dexter axles and I'm going to take in one of the old ones to see how well they can match a new one up. He quoted me a price of around $350 each complete with brakes over the phone. I don't mind doing a little fabrication work to install the axles as it seems I can save about $900 on both axles going with the Dexters instead of the Henchens. This is unfortunate- the Dexter shop and the Henchen axle plant are both about 30 miles from my house, so shipping is not an issue but the price of the axles varies so greatly, I just can't seem to justify spending twice plus more on the Henchens. That extra money can be used towards buying an awning. I'll likely start a new thread in the axle forum when they come in. Guess I better get some battries for the camera! --dave

AYRSTRM2 · 04-16-2006, 08:03 AM

Streamin, I need to tell you about a conversation I had with a Dexter dealer in Lapeer Michigan last week. I told him that I was looking for a new axle and what did I need to do. He said, bring the axle in and he'd send it to the Dexter factory for them to manufacture an exact replacement. I think you could ask the shop to see if they will do this. Even Marysville isn't that fair from the Dexter factory in Elkhart or Fremont. The price quoted me was about the same. I asked again if I heard correctly and he said yeah, takes about 3-4 weeks. He said that I should bring in the axle instead of the coach, so it didn't sit on jack stands at their shop for that long. Worth a shot, eh?

John

Quote:

Originally Posted by Streamin 65

Well, I was out of town last week, so the axle turmoil will start this week. I've contacted a trailer shop in the big city who sells Dexter axles and I'm going to take in one of the old ones to see how well they can match a new one up. He quoted me a price of around $350 each complete with brakes over the phone. I don't mind doing a little fabrication work to install the axles as it seems I can save about $900 on both axles going with the Dexters instead of the Henchens. This is unfortunate- the Dexter shop and the Henchen axle plant are both about 30 miles from my house, so shipping is not an issue but the price of the axles varies so greatly, I just can't seem to justify spending twice plus more on the Henchens. That extra money can be used towards buying an awning. I'll likely start a new thread in the axle forum when they come in. Guess I better get some battries for the camera! --dave

Streamin 65 · 04-16-2006, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2

Streamin, I need to tell you about a conversation I had with a Dexter dealer in Lapeer Michigan last week. I told him that I was looking for a new axle and what did I need to do. He said, bring the axle in and he'd send it to the Dexter factory for them to manufacture an exact replacement. I think you could ask the shop to see if they will do this. Even Marysville isn't that fair from the Dexter factory in Elkhart or Fremont. The price quoted me was about the same. I asked again if I heard correctly and he said yeah, takes about 3-4 weeks. He said that I should bring in the axle instead of the coach, so it didn't sit on jack stands at their shop for that long. Worth a shot, eh?

John

Thanks for the advice! I talked to a few trailer shops in the Columbus OH area and they all recommended I contact Star Bright Trailers in Galloway. I have one of the axles removed from the trailer and will take it to them ASAP. If they can make an exact duplicate of the Henchen, that would be GREAT! I'll report back with what happens. --dave

Tamara · 04-16-2006, 10:45 AM

We managed to get the old porcelain toilet out of our '66 yesterday. It was a bit of a job, as we wanted to get it out the back end rather than take apart the bathroom fiberglass. Luckily, we are also in the midst of re-doing some plumbing so we were able to gain some elbow room because we first took out nearly all the plumbing in the back and the battery tray.

Still had a hard time getting it out, not knowing exactly what came off of where. What saved us was realizing that the white plastic "tube" that comes out the bottom of the whole assembly and enters the black tank will come off if you pull hard enough. That gave us enough clearance to get the toilet out. We still haven't been able to get the gate valve assembly off the porcelain yet...it seems to be attached by magic, as the screws you think would hold it on don't appear to actually "do" anything.

We are hopeful we can repair or replace the thetford gate valve, which is where the trouble is of course. If not, we will be looking at some alternatives. In the meantime, the flange at the very base of the toilet assembly doesn't want to come out of the floor even after removal of what seemed like several hundred rusty screws. Would it have been adhered to the black tank with an adhesive underneath? Should it lift right out? Is there a hidden screw inside the collar that we don't know about? Might be just too rusty. Since our black tank leaks too, we will be going at that problem from below as soon as we get the belly pan opened up. Perhaps things will be easier from that direction. (wishful thinking)

Will keep everyone posted, any tips on the gate valve or flange removal are appreciated!

Streamin 65 · 04-16-2006, 12:18 PM

Tamara- That flange is threaded into the black water tank. Remove all the rusty screws and turn the flange counter-clockwise. It'll probably require a good bit of force to get it broke free. Keep us posted on your progress. --dave

Tamara · 04-16-2006, 02:33 PM

Threaded! Of course. Gonna go give it a try now. Got the valve off the porcelain finally, looks like we just need a new gasket.

Thanks, will post results later!

AYRSTRM2 · 04-16-2006, 02:46 PM

Pictures!!! Please take pictures!!! I may have to do just what you're describing on my '66 and any help would be great.

John

Tamara · 04-17-2006, 08:51 AM

John,
We have been taking some pics as we go, and I will attempt to post some asap. We should be dropping the belly pan this afternoon to finally get an up close look at the black tank and hopefully get it out.

Haven't gotten the flange off yet, it's proving to be most stubborn. I don't think it helps that the black tank has a lot of give in it, due to apparent cracks. Will let you know how it progresses...I'm hoping that by tonight we will have removed everything and have a plan of attack for the toilet and black tank replacement as our next trip is less than a month away!

Tamara

AYRSTRM2 · 04-17-2006, 09:04 AM

As for black tank repair, check out TomW 's website for repairing it. In this bath configuration it is my opinion that the black tank is insufficiently supported, as it is with the galvanized pan. It rusts and does a poor job. I ran a length of angle iron along the bottom of the pan and bolted it to the frame, for added support.

Looking forward to those pics and how-to's!

John

BURNZEE · 04-19-2006, 03:50 PM

My black tank has two 1" x 1" angles in either side of the galv box to support it. This seems like enough as long as the box is OK. Of course mine was literally rusted away, so the I'll have to make a new one.

The toilet replacement that Streamin 65 showed on post #8 is the best solution for replacing the toilet that I've seen thus far for this configuration. This is the way I'm leaning.

Tamara · 04-20-2006, 11:48 AM

John and all:

Just finished uploading some of the pics we have taken of our black tank and toilet removal and repair process. I think the following link should take you to where the photos start in my gallery:

http://tinyurl.com/rbs9n

If anyone cares to review the images and comment, I'd be thrilled.

We are trying to decide if this tank is worth salvaging. I'd like to try, as it's not in brittle condition. (Is this an original or a replacement? Anyone know?)

It already has one patch, with what I assume may be Scotchweld Epoxy - anyone know where to get that? I read it was recommended for sealing the fittings and it seems someone used the same thing to patch a hole and the patch has held. We tried a test patch with some hardware store plastic epoxy that is supposed to work for most plastics but are not crazy with the results. I also think the top of the tank and the bottom are of two different materials.

We have two cracks and two holes to patch. Considering encasing the whole thing in fiberglass? Or, perhaps using Bondo? (I know, the desperate grasp at straws.) Or maybe trying welding? It seems like that might be a viable option but not sure.

It we determine it is not worth patching then we will have a tank made to fit. I need to price that out, but assume it's not cheap for a tank of this shape. I am also aware that Inland sells a matching tank so that is an option on the table.

I have been impressed with some of the repairs people have done, and since we would like to try and get this up and running by Mid May, I am interested in patching. Suggestions are welcome.

The toilet update is I think it only needs a new gasket and we should be in business. Don't ask how I am going to get it back in, I'll let you know when we actually get that accomplished! It was very hard to get out, and if we get to the re-installation point there may well be a lot more plumbing and stuff that will be in the way. Very tight quarters.

Will keep ya'll posted - please ask questions if you need more pics for your own restore.

Tamara

BURNZEE · 04-20-2006, 02:31 PM

Tamara,
My 66 Safari tank is the same as yours. Mine was very cracked on top. I chose to replace it with a new one from Inland RV. http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/91324-blackh20tank.jpg
$445.00 is a bit steep, but I'll know I have a good tank. I haven't installed it yet so I still need to learn how to install the mounting plate for the toilet itself into the tank at it's not already installed.

jsscar · 04-30-2006, 02:41 PM

Burnzee,
Please let us know when you figure out what you are going to do. I also have a 66 Safari with a bad black water tank I am going to have to strip out the bathroom to replace. Probably upgrade a lot more while I am in there. Any chance you figured out how to check the toilet water problem after you got it pulled? I want to check mine before I pull it. The mechanism looks and works good, I hate to replace it.

jsscar · 04-30-2006, 02:47 PM

Burnzee please let us know when you figure out what you are going to do. I also have a 66 Safari with a bad black water tank I am going to have to strip out the bathroom to replace. Probably upgrade a lot more while I am in there. Any chance you figures out how to check the toilet water problem after you got it pulled? I want to check mine before I pull it. The mechanism looks and works good, I hate to replace it.

Gingergirl · 05-19-2006, 07:24 PM

Well we finally found the perfect toilet to fit in our 66' tradewind. We found a Sealand Traveler 910 which I am not sure if it is discontinued or not. By finding this toilet was like hitting the lottery. The only things we had to do was to place it on a Thetford riser (which we had to cut to fit around the plumbing), cut the fiberglass opening for the toilet (we dropped the toilet bowl down from the top) and the flush pedal opening was perfectly matched to the old opening so we had to cut the fiberglass opening a little longer in length and extend the foot pedal. This toilet was almost as identical to the old porcelain toilet. We researched all different toilets sizes and after being sent on a wild goose chase for a Thetford Aqua Magic IV high profile which we thought would be the closest in size, we spotted this Sealand and measured it and it was exactly what we needed. It just so happened that the rv center had it for about a year and told me they couldn't get that particular one anymore. I'm not sure about that, so if you want a toilet like this one, you need to call around to rv centers and see if they have any in stock. This toilet was made like the old one in which you could mount the bottom part of the toilet to the riser, then drop the bowl in and mount the bowl to the bottom part. (2-piece toilet). When Mark mounted the bottom part that has the pedal flush arm, I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw the pedal flush arm was exactly in line with the fiberglass opening for the old toilet pedal flush arm. It went in so fast we didn't take any pictures. If you ask me, there is not a toilet more suited than the one we bought. I have read all of you comments and appreciate all the effort everyone put forth. If any one wants any pictures of the afterwork, let me know. Thanks

scottanlily · 05-19-2006, 10:28 PM

The sealand toilets are an excellent choice .A high quality product.We have the traveler lite 110 in our 60 tradewind .I like the porcelin the best

Scott

GreatPumpkin · 05-19-2006, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gingergirl

New Member
Profile: 1966 24' Tradewind

Well we finally found the perfect toilet to fit in our 66' tradewind. We found a Sealand Traveler 910 which I am not sure if it is discontinued or not. By finding this toilet was like hitting the lottery. The only things we had to do was to place it on a Thetford riser ...................... If you ask me, there is not a toilet more suited than the one we bought. ............................. If any one wants any pictures of the afterwork, let me know. Thanks

I would love to see pictures - I have the Traveler 910 (my paperwork says Mansfield Sanitary Inc. - I think Sealand bought them out) Anyways the P.O. installed this toilet, but it of course is to short on its own - he "engineered" a fix by glueing in a house closet flange that brought it above the floor, then cutting wood to place around the flange supporting it. He also used a homemade wooden spacer between the flange and the gasket at the bottom of the toilet - it leaked - D'oh!

scottanlily · 05-21-2006, 10:05 PM

Hello greatpumkin,

did you check out the thetford (I think) 2 " risers they have for raising the toilet properly? I had posted to you about those ,thought it would help solve your problem without the poorly designed setup the po did,did you ever get that closet flange unglued?

Scott of scottanlily

GreatPumpkin · 05-21-2006, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottanlily

Hello greatpumkin,

did you check out the thetford (I think) 2 " risers they have for raising the toilet properly? I had posted to you about those ,thought it would help solve your problem without the poorly designed setup the po did,did you ever get that closet flange unglued?

Scott of scottanlily

Thanks for the replies - I think I'm going to give one of those risers a try. I haven't yet tackled trying to remove the closet flange - I just didn't have the time (or courage) before we went camping that weekend. I think I'm a little afraid of what I'm going to find. If the P.O.'s previous "fix" screwed up the threads into the black tank am I looking at complete replacement?

I'm going to have to tackle it pretty soon though, or my other half says no camping

I've been working long hours this week and haven't had time to even visit the AS except to go check on the leaky skylight after the rains we've been having. Both vents/skylights are not original and need replaced. The front long one is broken on the outer layer, but no leaks. The smaller rear one is cracked where the hehr lifter attaches to it.

Gingergirl · 05-22-2006, 07:39 PM

We had to remove the cast iron flange because the toilet mount holes were not aligned properly. The flange would not budge. We tried using a heat gun that was suggested by an rv tech, but that wouldn't work either. Soooooo, Mark got out his grinder and hack saw and went to work. He grinded off all that he could asnot to ruin the plastic threads. Then when we got to the inside part of the flange he used a hack saw and cut in 3 or 4 sections very carefully as not to go to deep. Then used visegrips to clamp on a section and started to wiggle it. He did have to make a cut about an 1/8" from another cut and tap that small piece out with a screwdriver so there was room for the bigger piece to come out. He worked from the outside and I helped from the inside because I could see with a light how deep the cuts were. It was a little time consuming, but well worth it. Then we replaced the flange, added the 2-1/2" Thetford riser, then the toilet. When we had everything together he said it looked "sweet". I will take some pictures because he has to remove toilet again so a friend can sweat in a copper line that came loose. As soon as that is going to happen (hopefully in the next week) I'll put in some pictures. If there is anything else we can help with, we'll do the best we can to answer.