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Old 04-05-2006, 08:39 PM   #15
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I haven't bought a new toilet yet, but I'm sure I will get this guy to do a professional installation.
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Old 04-06-2006, 10:23 AM   #16
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Great photos and info. My floor is removed only between the rear wall ant the first lateral framing member (including outrigger). If I install from the interior I will most likely have to install two pieces of plywood with the joint over the frame. I know that the flooring provides a lot of support for the walls, so I was thinking a single piece would be better. Maybe I need to make the plywood "sprung" as you call in. I assumed the plywood would not bend enough to do this? Regarding moving the black water tank to accomodate the new toilet location, I guess you were able to use the old tank? I have purchased a new one and it comes without the toilet flange and opening, so I should be able to located it where it needs to go without moving the tank to the rear. I just have to figure out how the PVC toilet flange attaches to the fiberglass tank. Thanks
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Old 04-06-2006, 03:19 PM   #17
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I don't know that it would be real easy to spring in a piece of ply at the very back of the trailer. I removed more of the floor on mine than was really necessary just so I could make the whole radius cut around the back out of one piece about two feet wide (the width was determined by the lateral frame member) The next piece was just a rectangle. I installed it by getting one side of the ply into the channel and springing the ply over a 2x4 i put in the middle of the trailer. I then got the other side into the channel and removed the 2x4. You will need some careful measurements here, and maybe a little trial and error, but it ultimately worked well.
I did reuse the same black water tank. It was still in good shape, just needed to fiberglass in a new dump valve. The flange on the toilet was threaded and fit into a threaded opening in the tank. I don't know where to find new threaded flanges. Don't forget to run a vent pipe into the black tank. I still need to fabricate a new galvanized pan for around the tank. The old one was literally a pile of rust. --dave
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Old 04-06-2006, 03:58 PM   #18
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Dave, these tips are invaluable. Just what I needed.

Hopefully I can find the toilet flange and I guess it will be "fiberglassed in" same as your dump valve. I'll also have to add one of those.

My galv box was rusted beyond belief as well at the angles holding the whole thing. Let me put it this way. If I would have filled the tank with water (or other stuff) I have no doubt that the it would have ended up on the road somewhere.

By the way, I have to move my trailer away from the house because the city said it could be parked on grass! So now I get to pour a slab.
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Old 04-07-2006, 10:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BURNZEE
By the way, I have to move my trailer away from the house because the city said it could be parked on grass! So now I get to pour a slab.
Funny you should mention that. I recently got a letter from our township zoning official with a couple of "violations" highlighted. The violations pertained to "junk" in the yard. This really ground my beans, as I live in the country. I am far enough out that there is no cable TV yet, pizza delivery, etc. And the only "junk" around here is the parts I took off the Airstream. The original tires/rims are stacked neatly behind the garage. The original toilet, stove, fridge and AC are stacked neatly on a piece of plywood and covered with a tarp also behind the garage and well over 100 ft. from the road. The other highlighted portion warned that all unenclosed (ungaraged?) vehicles must have a current registration. My guess is I have a new neighbor somewhere that thinks the Airstream is abandoned and is offended by the parts behind the garage. Granted, it may look bad setting up on blocks because I'm in the process of getting new axles, and the exterior finish looked pretty bad until last week as I got most of it compounded, but heck, by the time camping season hits full swing, the Airstream will be looking good and ready to roll.
Have you ordered your 6 or so yards of concrete needed for that pad yet? --dave
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Old 04-10-2006, 01:38 PM   #20
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Like most govt. programs, getting rid of junk in people yards probably started with good intentions. However, once they get the their hand on it, it just grows, and grows, .................
Haven't poured the slab yet. I had to cut down a tree and am now waiting for my neighbor to remove the roots and make it a little more level.
I need to have it close to the garage while I'm working on it to access power, tools, etc.
Have you jumped into the axle turmoil yet?

Thanks
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:56 AM   #21
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Well, I was out of town last week, so the axle turmoil will start this week. I've contacted a trailer shop in the big city who sells Dexter axles and I'm going to take in one of the old ones to see how well they can match a new one up. He quoted me a price of around $350 each complete with brakes over the phone. I don't mind doing a little fabrication work to install the axles as it seems I can save about $900 on both axles going with the Dexters instead of the Henchens. This is unfortunate- the Dexter shop and the Henchen axle plant are both about 30 miles from my house, so shipping is not an issue but the price of the axles varies so greatly, I just can't seem to justify spending twice plus more on the Henchens. That extra money can be used towards buying an awning. I'll likely start a new thread in the axle forum when they come in. Guess I better get some battries for the camera! --dave
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:03 AM   #22
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Streamin, I need to tell you about a conversation I had with a Dexter dealer in Lapeer Michigan last week. I told him that I was looking for a new axle and what did I need to do. He said, bring the axle in and he'd send it to the Dexter factory for them to manufacture an exact replacement. I think you could ask the shop to see if they will do this. Even Marysville isn't that fair from the Dexter factory in Elkhart or Fremont. The price quoted me was about the same. I asked again if I heard correctly and he said yeah, takes about 3-4 weeks. He said that I should bring in the axle instead of the coach, so it didn't sit on jack stands at their shop for that long. Worth a shot, eh?

John

Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamin 65
Well, I was out of town last week, so the axle turmoil will start this week. I've contacted a trailer shop in the big city who sells Dexter axles and I'm going to take in one of the old ones to see how well they can match a new one up. He quoted me a price of around $350 each complete with brakes over the phone. I don't mind doing a little fabrication work to install the axles as it seems I can save about $900 on both axles going with the Dexters instead of the Henchens. This is unfortunate- the Dexter shop and the Henchen axle plant are both about 30 miles from my house, so shipping is not an issue but the price of the axles varies so greatly, I just can't seem to justify spending twice plus more on the Henchens. That extra money can be used towards buying an awning. I'll likely start a new thread in the axle forum when they come in. Guess I better get some battries for the camera! --dave
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:40 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2
Streamin, I need to tell you about a conversation I had with a Dexter dealer in Lapeer Michigan last week. I told him that I was looking for a new axle and what did I need to do. He said, bring the axle in and he'd send it to the Dexter factory for them to manufacture an exact replacement. I think you could ask the shop to see if they will do this. Even Marysville isn't that fair from the Dexter factory in Elkhart or Fremont. The price quoted me was about the same. I asked again if I heard correctly and he said yeah, takes about 3-4 weeks. He said that I should bring in the axle instead of the coach, so it didn't sit on jack stands at their shop for that long. Worth a shot, eh?

John
Thanks for the advice! I talked to a few trailer shops in the Columbus OH area and they all recommended I contact Star Bright Trailers in Galloway. I have one of the axles removed from the trailer and will take it to them ASAP. If they can make an exact duplicate of the Henchen, that would be GREAT! I'll report back with what happens. --dave
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:45 AM   #24
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To get back to the subject of toilets....

We managed to get the old porcelain toilet out of our '66 yesterday. It was a bit of a job, as we wanted to get it out the back end rather than take apart the bathroom fiberglass. Luckily, we are also in the midst of re-doing some plumbing so we were able to gain some elbow room because we first took out nearly all the plumbing in the back and the battery tray.

Still had a hard time getting it out, not knowing exactly what came off of where. What saved us was realizing that the white plastic "tube" that comes out the bottom of the whole assembly and enters the black tank will come off if you pull hard enough. That gave us enough clearance to get the toilet out. We still haven't been able to get the gate valve assembly off the porcelain yet...it seems to be attached by magic, as the screws you think would hold it on don't appear to actually "do" anything.

We are hopeful we can repair or replace the thetford gate valve, which is where the trouble is of course. If not, we will be looking at some alternatives. In the meantime, the flange at the very base of the toilet assembly doesn't want to come out of the floor even after removal of what seemed like several hundred rusty screws. Would it have been adhered to the black tank with an adhesive underneath? Should it lift right out? Is there a hidden screw inside the collar that we don't know about? Might be just too rusty. Since our black tank leaks too, we will be going at that problem from below as soon as we get the belly pan opened up. Perhaps things will be easier from that direction. (wishful thinking)

Will keep everyone posted, any tips on the gate valve or flange removal are appreciated!
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Old 04-16-2006, 01:18 PM   #25
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Tamara- That flange is threaded into the black water tank. Remove all the rusty screws and turn the flange counter-clockwise. It'll probably require a good bit of force to get it broke free. Keep us posted on your progress. --dave
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Old 04-16-2006, 03:33 PM   #26
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Threaded! Of course. Gonna go give it a try now. Got the valve off the porcelain finally, looks like we just need a new gasket.

Thanks, will post results later!
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Old 04-16-2006, 03:46 PM   #27
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Pictures!!! Please take pictures!!! I may have to do just what you're describing on my '66 and any help would be great.

John
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Old 04-17-2006, 09:51 AM   #28
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John,
We have been taking some pics as we go, and I will attempt to post some asap. We should be dropping the belly pan this afternoon to finally get an up close look at the black tank and hopefully get it out.

Haven't gotten the flange off yet, it's proving to be most stubborn. I don't think it helps that the black tank has a lot of give in it, due to apparent cracks. Will let you know how it progresses...I'm hoping that by tonight we will have removed everything and have a plan of attack for the toilet and black tank replacement as our next trip is less than a month away!

Tamara
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