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Old 09-21-2013, 10:14 PM   #1
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Replacement Toilet?

Hello fellow streamers. Just got back from a trip and I finally found the slow leak in the fresh water system. It is the water valve in the toilet. It is a 1988 excella so I thought instead repairing it I would install a new toilet, so people who have installed a new toilet in older TT lets hear any suggestions on what brand and style you would recommend.
Happy camping nm1oqrz
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:04 PM   #2
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My spouse agrees with me - 18" height is a whole better than 14." We chose a Dometic 310 porcelain and wished we had done it sooner. That style might not match the 'original' look of your unit but it sure is an improvement when cleaning and fits taller people.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:40 AM   #3
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Hey, just bought a Dometic 320 and plan to use it to replace the factory thetford in our 2008 27FB this weekend. Does anyone have pictures of this procedure or a list of any "gotcha's"? I'll only have limited time for the replacement so I wanted to read up on the procedure. Thanks!
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:09 PM   #4
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I did the swap to a 310 two weeks ago. Very easy.

The toilet is mounted with two bolts (1/2" nut). The water pipe length will need to be adjusted because the connecting inlet on the Thetford is at bowl height and the Dometic lower near the base.

In my case, I removed the pipe at the 90° elbow next to the wall and used the removed section for parts. Once the pipe is removed, it will resemble an 'L.' I cut the shorter end off the L, leaving a section the proper length (with toilet connector and on/off valve still attached) for final assembly.

Re-attach the pipe section to the 90° elbow and you are ready to complete mounting the toilet. Don't drop the toilet bolts down the hole in the floor!

It took about 45 minutes.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:16 PM   #5
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My EB came with a 310, I looked at the rough draft of installation specs that came with it. It includes specs for the 320 which needs an extra inch (from 10" to 11") to clear the back edge of the toilet vs wall. I measured it looking for the room to swing a 320, I, and the dealer couldn't find the room needed.
But, neither of us actually removed the 310 to measure or try to fit a 320.
Good luck, and post your results, , ,
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:51 PM   #6
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My EB came with a 310, I looked at the rough draft of installation specs that came with it. It includes specs for the 320 which needs an extra inch (from 10" to 11") to clear the back edge of the toilet vs wall. I measured it looking for the room to swing a 320, I, and the dealer couldn't find the room needed.
But, neither of us actually removed the 310 to measure or try to fit a 320.
Good luck, and post your results, , ,
Uh oh. Looks like I might need some vaseline or a wall bender. We'll let you know what happens.

Brad
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:31 PM   #7
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No go on the 320 in a 2008 27FB. 320 is about an inch too deep as someone smarter than me pointed out. Off to camping world to exchange with a 310.
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Old 11-24-2013, 06:48 PM   #8
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Yay! 310 installed!
CW exchanged the 320 for a 310 and refunded the difference. The 310 was a tight fit as the ring is installed a little askew but I think that it's done intentionally for left knee preservation as a straight install forces the left knee into the sink fixture rounded molding.
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Old 11-24-2013, 06:54 PM   #9
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Old 11-25-2013, 11:09 AM   #10
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"Missed it by that much"

Is there a capped fitting that will take the wand on the stock 310?

Thanks for the info, I can classify that mod as "busted"
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Old 11-25-2013, 09:06 PM   #11
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"Missed it by that much"

Is there a capped fitting that will take the wand on the stock 310?

Thanks for the info, I can classify that mod as "busted"
Do you mean the sprayer?
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:57 AM   #12
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The hand held wand, sprayer, rinser. It didn't come with stock, but my 5er has one, kinda handy to have.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:08 AM   #13
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Nice installation. Treat yourself to a real seat. Throw out the cheesy plastic one and swap it out for the real deal. A standard household seat will fit and be much sturdier ....
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:08 PM   #14
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Nice installation. Treat yourself to a real seat. Throw out the cheesy plastic one and swap it out for the real deal. A standard household seat will fit and be much sturdier ....
Thanks Janet. That was my next move. I've installed "slow closers" on all the toilets in the house and will do the same for this one.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #15
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The hand held wand, sprayer, rinser. It didn't come with stock, but my 5er has one, kinda handy to have.
I installed the hand held sprayer kit which can be seen in the photos. It seems to work well.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:01 PM   #16
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I just bought my first AIRSTREAM, a 31ft international sovereign. I need some advice on updating winterizing and general noob information. Very exited very worried (way more exited!)
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:22 AM   #17
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I just bought my first AIRSTREAM, a 31ft international sovereign. I need some advice on updating winterizing and general noob information.Very exited very worried(way more exited!)
Hi JGP, Welcome!

If you use the search functions in the browser or the airforum apps you can locate a ton of great information. I would search for search for "winterizing". The way I solved the problem was moving to a place where freezing temps are rare. I've seen many great threads in the forums about how to winterize though. Besides the forums another thing that helped us quite a bit as newbies was this book: http://www.amazon.com/Newbies-Guide-.../dp/B004SUOZCC

Other than that use a "c" in excited or else we will think that you are leaving all the time.

Again, welcome to the Aluminum tribe!

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Old 11-27-2013, 06:56 AM   #18
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I just bought my first AIRSTREAM, a 31ft international sovereign. I need some advice on updating winterizing and general noob information.Very exited very worried(way more exited!)
First suggestion, get that Airstream off the ceiling! (Your pic posted upside down; must have posted from a smartphone or tablet).

Second, I dislike saying "look it up" when a direct answer is possible, so here's my answer.

There are two schools of thought on winterizing. Some prefer the "blow-out" method. some prefer the "antifreeze" method. Still others prefer a combination of the two.

Blow-out is my preference. I live where campgrounds remain open year-round, and literally half the holiday weekends I have off from work are in winter, so I want to keep my winterizing tasks to a minimum, and my "summerizing" tasks equally simple since I'll be doing both multiple times each winter.
In general terms— you'll have to work out the specifics for your trailer— the steps are as follows. This is from memory rather than my checklist, so I hope others will chime in with any corrections in case of something I forgot or misremembered:
1 - Empty your holding tanks as normal.
2 - Empty your fresh tank by means of the drain valve on the underside.
3 - Empty your water heater.
4 - Bypass your water heater.
5 - Open your faucets and shower head, both hot and cold levers if separate taps, halfway between hot and cold for single-lever, to let air into your pipes.
6 - Open your low-point drains.
7 - Hold down the toilet lever to let air into that line as well while the water drains out.
8 - Run the pump for about a minute until you know it's running dry. Don't run it too long or it may begin to overheat— pumps are usually cooled by the fluids they pump.
9 - Close the low-point drains.
10 - Apply compressed air to the municipal water inlet. You'll need an air compressor or decent-sized air tank that will produce at least 60 psi, and a special fitting (available at Camping World, Parts 66, Amazon, etc. as a "blow-out plug"; get the kind that matches your air hose, either a tire-valve-style or a quick-disconnect style).
11 - Make sure you once again hold down the toilet lever while applying compressed air, so that line also gets blown out.
12 - When water quits coming out the faucets, everything should be dry, and you can stop applying compressed air. Dry lines will get cold, but no ice will form in them and no damage will occur.
13 - If you have an exterior shower, be sure you also blow that out.
14 - Reopen the low-point drains and leave them like that.
15 - If you have a black tank flush fitting, blow it out as well. If you don't have a separate blowout plug to use on that, you can use the same one, but then put it through a dishwasher cycle at home before using it again on the fresh tank.
16 - Add about half a gallon of pink RV antifreeze to the black tank, and leave enough antifreeze in the toilet bowl to cover the valve seal. To make sure the antifreeze in the toilet bowl doesn't evaporate, cover the toilet bowl with Saran Wrap.
17 - Add about half a gallon of pink RV antifreeze to the gray tank, pouring (slowly) a bit into each sink and the shower drain. The idea is to displace any water that may be caught in the P-traps. You add antifreeze to the black and gray systems because, unlike the freshwater system, you can't be sure they'll get completely dry. But you don't need much antifreeze to ensure a good water-to-antifreeze ratio if you start with mostly-dry tanks.

This sounds like a lot of steps, but the overall process isn't difficult.

If you want to know about the antifreeze method, which involves filling your freshwater system with antifreeze, which then has to be flushed out in the sping before you can use your trailer, someone else will have to answer that. I've never done it, though I know that if you fill your freshwater system with antifreeze you need to remove or bypass your water filter canister to prevent antifreeze from getting into the filter medium (which ruins the filter medium and doesn't do a lot of good to the antifreeze, either).
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:27 AM   #19
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First suggestion, get that Airstream off the ceiling! (Your pic posted upside down; must have posted from a smartphone or tablet).

Second, I dislike saying "look it up" when a direct answer is possible, so here's my answer.

There are two schools of thought on winterizing. Some prefer the "blow-out" method. some prefer the "antifreeze" method. Still others prefer a combination of the two.
Thanks Protagonist. I prefer direct answers as well but I also hate "dead air" so felt it necessary to comment. Having bought the SuperTrouper right here in Norcal I've never had to winterize so I didn't want to lead JGB astray with second hand news. Thanks for the details as I may need them in the future. - Brad
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:29 PM   #20
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Nice installation. Treat yourself to a real seat. Throw out the cheesy plastic one and swap it out for the real deal. A standard household seat will fit and be much sturdier ....
How's this? The siphon breaker cover came off with the cheesy seat but the brushed nickel hardware, solid seat and s-l-o-w closer is great. Mayfair part 830NISLB 000
I'll find something to cover the siphon breaker eventually.
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