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Old 11-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #15
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The hand held wand, sprayer, rinser. It didn't come with stock, but my 5er has one, kinda handy to have.
I installed the hand held sprayer kit which can be seen in the photos. It seems to work well.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:01 PM   #16
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I just bought my first AIRSTREAM, a 31ft international sovereign. I need some advice on updating winterizing and general noob information. Very exited very worried (way more exited!)
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:22 AM   #17
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I just bought my first AIRSTREAM, a 31ft international sovereign. I need some advice on updating winterizing and general noob information.Very exited very worried(way more exited!)
Hi JGP, Welcome!

If you use the search functions in the browser or the airforum apps you can locate a ton of great information. I would search for search for "winterizing". The way I solved the problem was moving to a place where freezing temps are rare. I've seen many great threads in the forums about how to winterize though. Besides the forums another thing that helped us quite a bit as newbies was this book: http://www.amazon.com/Newbies-Guide-.../dp/B004SUOZCC

Other than that use a "c" in excited or else we will think that you are leaving all the time.

Again, welcome to the Aluminum tribe!

Brad
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Old 11-27-2013, 06:56 AM   #18
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I just bought my first AIRSTREAM, a 31ft international sovereign. I need some advice on updating winterizing and general noob information.Very exited very worried(way more exited!)
First suggestion, get that Airstream off the ceiling! (Your pic posted upside down; must have posted from a smartphone or tablet).

Second, I dislike saying "look it up" when a direct answer is possible, so here's my answer.

There are two schools of thought on winterizing. Some prefer the "blow-out" method. some prefer the "antifreeze" method. Still others prefer a combination of the two.

Blow-out is my preference. I live where campgrounds remain open year-round, and literally half the holiday weekends I have off from work are in winter, so I want to keep my winterizing tasks to a minimum, and my "summerizing" tasks equally simple since I'll be doing both multiple times each winter.
In general termsó you'll have to work out the specifics for your traileró the steps are as follows. This is from memory rather than my checklist, so I hope others will chime in with any corrections in case of something I forgot or misremembered:
1 - Empty your holding tanks as normal.
2 - Empty your fresh tank by means of the drain valve on the underside.
3 - Empty your water heater.
4 - Bypass your water heater.
5 - Open your faucets and shower head, both hot and cold levers if separate taps, halfway between hot and cold for single-lever, to let air into your pipes.
6 - Open your low-point drains.
7 - Hold down the toilet lever to let air into that line as well while the water drains out.
8 - Run the pump for about a minute until you know it's running dry. Don't run it too long or it may begin to overheató pumps are usually cooled by the fluids they pump.
9 - Close the low-point drains.
10 - Apply compressed air to the municipal water inlet. You'll need an air compressor or decent-sized air tank that will produce at least 60 psi, and a special fitting (available at Camping World, Parts 66, Amazon, etc. as a "blow-out plug"; get the kind that matches your air hose, either a tire-valve-style or a quick-disconnect style).
11 - Make sure you once again hold down the toilet lever while applying compressed air, so that line also gets blown out.
12 - When water quits coming out the faucets, everything should be dry, and you can stop applying compressed air. Dry lines will get cold, but no ice will form in them and no damage will occur.
13 - If you have an exterior shower, be sure you also blow that out.
14 - Reopen the low-point drains and leave them like that.
15 - If you have a black tank flush fitting, blow it out as well. If you don't have a separate blowout plug to use on that, you can use the same one, but then put it through a dishwasher cycle at home before using it again on the fresh tank.
16 - Add about half a gallon of pink RV antifreeze to the black tank, and leave enough antifreeze in the toilet bowl to cover the valve seal. To make sure the antifreeze in the toilet bowl doesn't evaporate, cover the toilet bowl with Saran Wrap.
17 - Add about half a gallon of pink RV antifreeze to the gray tank, pouring (slowly) a bit into each sink and the shower drain. The idea is to displace any water that may be caught in the P-traps. You add antifreeze to the black and gray systems because, unlike the freshwater system, you can't be sure they'll get completely dry. But you don't need much antifreeze to ensure a good water-to-antifreeze ratio if you start with mostly-dry tanks.

This sounds like a lot of steps, but the overall process isn't difficult.

If you want to know about the antifreeze method, which involves filling your freshwater system with antifreeze, which then has to be flushed out in the sping before you can use your trailer, someone else will have to answer that. I've never done it, though I know that if you fill your freshwater system with antifreeze you need to remove or bypass your water filter canister to prevent antifreeze from getting into the filter medium (which ruins the filter medium and doesn't do a lot of good to the antifreeze, either).
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:27 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post

First suggestion, get that Airstream off the ceiling! (Your pic posted upside down; must have posted from a smartphone or tablet).

Second, I dislike saying "look it up" when a direct answer is possible, so here's my answer.

There are two schools of thought on winterizing. Some prefer the "blow-out" method. some prefer the "antifreeze" method. Still others prefer a combination of the two.
Thanks Protagonist. I prefer direct answers as well but I also hate "dead air" so felt it necessary to comment. Having bought the SuperTrouper right here in Norcal I've never had to winterize so I didn't want to lead JGB astray with second hand news. Thanks for the details as I may need them in the future. - Brad
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:29 PM   #20
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Nice installation. Treat yourself to a real seat. Throw out the cheesy plastic one and swap it out for the real deal. A standard household seat will fit and be much sturdier ....
How's this? The siphon breaker cover came off with the cheesy seat but the brushed nickel hardware, solid seat and s-l-o-w closer is great. Mayfair part 830NISLB 000
I'll find something to cover the siphon breaker eventually.
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:46 PM   #21
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Old 02-06-2014, 08:22 AM   #22
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Replacement Toilet?

1979 31 ft center bath replacing toilet. Floor rotted around ring- must remove ring To replace floor. Removed screws from ring but still feels attached. ???? Help please. Tom 920_382-6606. newbee
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:59 AM   #23
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Your 25' probably has the toilet mounted up on a raised platform? Measure the height you need before going to the store. Did the replacement on our longer trailer. Had to saw off the old bolts to keep from damaging the plastic flange on the trailer. Used per for the water inlet. Used a riser kit. Get a couple flange gaskets and new bolts.
Airstream changed the valve on the toilet in our 25' because the could do it without removing the toilet.
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:07 PM   #24
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Reviving this old thread to say Thanks to those that contributed since I was about ready to return the Dometic 310 I just purchased for our 2009 27FB because it didnít fit even though itís currently standard in the new 27s. I did have to remove and trim the vacuum breaker cover as shown in the pictures. I measured from the center of the lid bolt to the wall and then matched the angle with painters tape. After a rough cut with a saber saw (as shown), I finished smoothing the cut with a Dremel tool. The finished toilet is a big improvement over the Thetford that was in the trailer and they are now sold with a nice solid slow-close seat and lid. Feels just like home. I have a sprayer kit ordered and will install it when it arrives.
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:47 PM   #25
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Did everyone opt for the standard height 19.75" unit?

I'm leaning towards the 14" low profile one as I have really young kids, and it would help them more than a standard height would help me.

I believe my original toilet is 16.5"?
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Old 11-05-2017, 11:42 PM   #26
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We did but the height matches what we have at home and the grandkids are used to it.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:58 AM   #27
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I ordered the standard height one as the low profile unit is really meant to go on a pedestal type install.

In researching, seat heights seem to be inconsistent. With some showing 18" to 19.75" as I posted earlier. I believe the seat heigh is 18", and overall height is 20". My original toilet is 17.5", so I should be just fine.
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