Replacement shower faucet for 67 Overlander

[55AS]

I removed the shower faucet set from my 67 Overlander and it appears to be original. Shower head and hose are fine and I prefer to reuse them. Looking for a replacement faucet set that looks period correct, is metal and has 4" centers. Any suggestions?

[68 TWind]

I rebuilt the assembly in my 68. Generic plumbing parts from ACE hardware, if you can live with the finish. It looks like yours will polish up OK. Mine has a few of the rough spots in the chrome but honestly no one ever sees it. We have found that we don't use the shower very often, preferring the campground bath house showers but my original works great when we need it.

[55AS]

Everything is pretty much frozen/corroded. Maybe a good soak with loosen up everything enough to repair. Finish will probably clean up well enough to be presentable.

[Dingo Girl]

I just redid mine from my 67. New washers and a polish. I'm very happy with it.
Keep it if you can.

[Streamracer]

That looks like the one I got at CW a few years ago for my 86. Still have the old one.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

I'd guess that there are things here and there, in every trailer built, that Airstream's ungineers totally misconceived. One of the ignorances found in the '67/'68 bath is the tub faucet. It appears that it is installed upside-down, and the H & C handles(not valves) are switched. Why? Because of their misconception or ignorance of the actual day-to-day bathing function in a tiny space, and an inability to read or interpret the installation directions of the Alsons shower wand.


Among the manuals that came with my 68GT, I found the Alsons installation brochure that clearly states NOT to install it the way Airstream did (voids warranty). Correct installation results in a pleasant caternary curve that drapes in a way not to cause stress on the hose.


The hose kinking, double curve can be eliminated by positioning the faucet pointing down. This correct positioning will unfortunately mis-align the supply lines in the “hamper” area, which is a hassle to reconfigure supply because Airstream soldered the connecting brass into the faucet.


If you're willing to correct the installation, you'll find that the H&C valves operate in a more intuitive on-off rotation, and the hose will drape up along the wall, out of the way, as Alsons intended, without the sine wave stress.


You can rebuild the original faucet by dressing the seats and replacing rubber washers and packing. Should be about a dollars-worth of easily found seals.


the 4" spread is the same as old clawfoot tubs if you're looking to replace entirely, but the original is easily made good as new.

[Dingo Girl]

Aluminumnum,
Mine had a really worn beveled rubber washers under the nut under the hot & cold handles.
Should I have used packing on those instead of beveled rubber washers? My faucet is exactly like yours.
I've not been able to test them since I re-did them.
Makes me wonder if they had been replaced somewhere along the line.
thanks

[ALUMINUMINUM]

DG,
Not to worry,

The packing is near the tip-top of the stem. It's a different gasket than the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem.

The “packing” is a few inches of graphite string wound around the valve stem that's compressed by the topmost nut, often called the "packing nut". If the old packing works, don't worry.

The upper stem seal (packing) only comes into play when the valve is open. It prevents dribble around the stem. If it leaks there when faucet is open, you can often tighten the packing nut a little and the dribble stops. If the valve is closed, and the seat washer is sealing, nothing can leak.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

If the valve seat looks a little crusty, you can dress the seat with a seat resurfacing tool that you shouldn't pay more than two dollars for if you're not going pro.


There's probably quite a difference in price between Harbor Freight and Ridgid.

[A W Warn]

maybe you can find something suitable here>
http://www.phoenixfaucets.com/store/...s/recreational

[ALUMINUMINUM]

I took a second look at Bambitex faucet and it's different. Perhaps an International upgrade? That's definitely Airstream's copper flare elbow soldered in, with faucet spigot pointing down?? One would assume it's original.

[Dingo Girl]

I bought some packing a while back and will pull the beveled washers out and replace with packing.
Then I'm going to make a gizmo to test the faucet before I install it.

[eubank]

VTS offers this one:




Lynn

[55AS]

Originally Posted by eubank

VTS offers this one:




Lynn

The problem with that one is the 3-3/8" spacing.

[55AS]

Soaking and tapping have allowed me to remove both handles and one stem so far and has also freed up the cutoff valve for the shower head. Stems are very badly corroded so I am hoping to replace them with new, reassemble and polish the chrome. Fingers crossed.

[55AS]

Good news. Finally got the other stem out and got replacement stems at Home Depot which were made for a smaller diameter handle. Bushed the inside of the old handles and reinstalled. Everything now works! Trailer for sale:-)

[Dingo Girl]

I'm trying to use the original shower fixture. (67)
I've got it hooked up to my garder hose to check for leaks before it goes in.
What am I doing wrong?
As soon as i turn the faucet handles open i get a leak. Both sides
Ive packed and repacked the valves with the graphite string. Then tried some messy rubbery string too.
These are the only 2 leaks remaining.
Is there something I'm missing??? 🤔
Thanks!

[Dingo Girl]

Shower faucet is fixed!
Ace graphite & oil impregnated string, about 2 inches worth.
Then a yellow rubber bib (beveled) washer on top of that then the nut. The nut on mine is dome shaped.
I had to drill out the yellow washer to fit the valve stem.
All good now.