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Old 12-29-2006, 06:57 PM   #1
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Removing/repairing bathroom sink/counter

I am removing my cracked bathroom counter and sink (lavarette). Maybe I can repair it, if not a replacement is probably not available and I will have to make one. There is not enough room to disconnect the sink trap easily. Before I start cutting are there any specialized Airstream plumbing fittings I am going to destroy? Anyone have any suggestions for making a new sink/counter? Anyone have one for sale?

Thanks
Marshall

I can't get my photo to attach. Let me know and I will email
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:23 PM   #2
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Zeppelinium recently bought a "parts" trailer of about that era. You might try sending him a PM. That guy is a wealth of knowledge, BTW. He may able to answer your plumbing questions.

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Old 12-29-2006, 09:55 PM   #3
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Marshall,

Having refinished two bathrooms (one rear, one center), I feel qualified to offer some advice here.

It is difficult, but you should be able to unscrew the the drain from the bottom of the sink (it is threaded into the black ABS plastic 1-1/2" pipe). You can use two screwdrivers or even fashion a tool out of pipe (cut out a cross in the end) to do it as well. I do remember being amazed at how tough it was, but it will come out.

If you cut it, you could easily rejoin it with an ABS coupling. (But the drain/strainer will be in your way for refinishing.

As for sink repair, fiberglass/epoxy works well on the back side as long as you scuff up the surface a bit. You can fill in any cracks with resin. Once all repairs are made, you can apply a couple coats of 2-part epoxy and it's ready to go. Of course, you have to prep it pretty well.
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Old 12-30-2006, 04:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Zeppelinium recently bought a "parts" trailer of about that era. You might try sending him a PM. That guy is a wealth of knowledge, BTW. He may able to answer your plumbing questions.

Jim
Thanks, Jim, but it's really amazing what I don't know. For example, I didn't take any photos of the inside of the "parts" Ambassador and I can't remember squat when it comes to the small details. I do think the lavarette is in good shape, but won't be able to verify that until I see the trailer again in two weeks. The rear bath had the standard tub on the curb side, but the toilet installation (on the street side) looked more like a lid on a bench, a la outhouse style, than a separate Thetford toilet. I'll be documenting the interior fixtures in the thread "Dead in Baker" as soon as I get back there.

I could "deliver" the lavarette to Shiprock or maybe even Albuquerque (the 4CU rally), depending on my return route from Mojave, but that wouldn't be until March. The shipping on these items, if it has to go by freight, is just too onerous. If the lav turns out to meet the UPS size limit, then that's an option.

Zep
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Old 12-30-2006, 03:25 PM   #5
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I tried to muscle it a little bit which I could see was flexing the drain area of the sink basin. I'm afraid too much force will crack the sink basin hole. Then it's really down the drain. So my thinking is better to cut the drain pipe if it is easier to replace.
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Old 01-06-2007, 10:03 PM   #6
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Dejavue

Hi Marshall, I just sent an eM to you on the NT22.

Please post anything relevant on upgrading of your plumbing. I am about to take that project on. Which is why I am searching these sorts of threads. A little advanced research always helps. So far I am just accumulating parts such as a new AC-LP water heater and a new pump. The next step is to draw out the plan, stock pile the estimated fittings, valves, accumulator and pex.

As you seem to have the same facilties I do I will watch with interest! By the way I love your picture. It is January and we still have no snow up here in Wisconsin. Never seen it quite this warm before.

I am not slick with the pics but if you go below the reply screen there is a tab-button titled "Manage Attachments". hit the button and then browse to the photo you want, hit the upload button. You will not see anything but the photos will post if you put at least three or four workds in the post.

Good luck with the plumbing and the furnace.
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Old 01-06-2007, 11:21 PM   #7
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Good Timing... I got a 1973 Safari Land Yacht and I just put the 2nd coat of Tough As Tile, available at Lowe's for $21, on today. I used the brush on type and it is self leveling and leaves no brush marks. You can also put it in a sprayer and spray it in two applications. DO NOT use the aerosol cans that they sell. I made that mistake on the first attempt and they are also about $30 opposed to the $21 mentioned above and are VERY problematic and unreliable. I also had trouble getting my counter unhooked from the old fittings and etc. because of corrosion. Forget any specialized Airstream plumbing tools and cut them as they all need replaced anyway at their age. I was able to get the drain unscrewed. I had to cut the copper hot and cold lines. I will reconnect using compression fittings going to a Price Phister faucet 4" center unit that will last almost forever. Get them brand new on Ebay for about $30 and they list for just a little over $200 retail. Do a search at Ebay using "Price Pfister Catalina faucet". I also had to use some repair epoxy (also from Lowe's-less than $5) to fix 3 cracks and it hardened well after about 7 minutes. You might want to support that shower seat a little better when you get the sink out as mine had little support from the original factory install. Just use some treated wood to reinforce it while it is accessible. I had good solid floor there so there was no real reason to completely remove it. But I did have to replace some 3/4" plywood floor to the left where the black holding tank sits. I painted the shower "in-place" and did not remove it. I even patched a crack in it with the same 2-part epoxy. It is fairly easy but time consuming because the Tough As Tile takes one day (I used 2 days) between the two coats and requires number 0000 steel wool preparation between coats. You will be storing your left over Tough As Tile mixture in the freezer between coats and it is only good for 36 hours of storing it so be prepared to use a full weekend to accomplish this job. Also, good ventilation because that is some powerful mixture. I recommend you use what is already there even though it needs repair because it will look better with that nostalgic look. Good luck my friend and let us know what you decided upon and how you did it.
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:16 PM   #8
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Removing/repairing bathroom sink/counter

I'm in the same area with my '73 Globetrotter this past weekend. To take the sink out I disconnected the S trap fitting rather than disconnect the sink drain. Cut the copper water supplies because the connections at the faucet were not budging.

A couple of questions:
1) I have a 5 inches of mushy plywood in the rear corner below the shower seat (external leak from banged up trim). I was going to remove the black water tank to repair but can not get valve off the bottom of the tank (below the floor) without destroying. Could I repair the floor from the bottom by removing a section of belly skin?

2) I have a hair line crack in the top of black water tank, is this repairable?

3) I have noticed in a couple areas were two or three inches of black hose is used in the copper supplies lines. Is this original or are these previous repairs?

thanks
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Old 01-08-2007, 05:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cos
1) I have a 5 inches of mushy plywood

3) I have noticed in a couple areas were two or three inches of black hose is used in the copper supplies lines. Is this original or are these previous repairs?

thanks
Here's what I know. Not much, but.....
1.I have had good luck with Rot Doctor penetrating epoxy wood treatment. Take out the real bad stuff and piece in a new piece of plywood. Use Rot Doctor to stabilze the wood beginning to rot.

2. I bet the black rubber hose sections were patches to freeze damage. If it works don't fix it.
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Old 01-08-2007, 10:54 PM   #10
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The hair line crack in the top of black water tank is this repairable. I busted out a section of mine when I removed the factory potty by accident as it was frozen to the tank. I went to a Body shop and they had like super epoxy for almost every material know to man there. Paid him $10 bucks and he repaired it on the spot. I think they need him for the shuttle repairs in Florida.
Two or three inches of black hose is also used in my copper supplies lines and this Land Yacht has never been out of the State of Georgia and it is my opinion that no one has ever been near my copper lines before me. My guess is that they are factory but not sure.
As for the plywood. I'd go all the way and remove that shower and replace so that you will have a peace of mind or you will be back down there later. I promise.
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Old 01-09-2007, 12:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cos
A couple of questions:

3) I have noticed in a couple areas were two or three inches of black hose is used in the copper supplies lines. Is this original or are these previous repairs?

thanks
are you refering to plumbing lines or propane lines - there are sections of hose material that protect the copper lines as they are fed through the floor - but in the GT they were not in place.

We too have some water heater hose that has repaired feezing pipe. I think that stuff works better than the copper
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