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Old 10-26-2004, 01:55 AM   #1
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Relocating tanks, sinks, shower, toilet etc.

I'm in the middle of a lunatic project: Completely replacing the interior of an '89 34' Excella to make a vintage race car hauler plus camper. Part of my plan is to relocate the black and greywater tanks (looks like it's just one big one) to the area ahead of the first axle. This is both for weight transfer and because all the camping facilities will be forward of a wall installed just forward of the wheel well. Has anyone done this? I'm assuming the floor joists are uniformly spaced. It looks like the only real complication will be cutting the undertray and trimming the upper edge of one joist to accomodate and angled fitting. Any advice out there on pitfalls I should watch for?

For those that find this an interesting project (or at least not a despicable act), my plans are to build a very '40's looking interior, mostly from riveted aluminum, that appears much like the airliners of that era. The car section will be fitted with built in tool boxes, compressor, fuel and tire racks, and other storage. The car is a special built in 1959 called Peyote--an all aluminum-bodied special based on a triumph TR3. As part of the project I'm replacing the myriad of pop rivets that hold Peyote together with polished solid rivets.

I'm also fitting an substantial solar cell array to charge deep cycle batteries to drive both the 12 V system and a 6kw inverter, with a little 1kw holda generator for emergencies. My plans are to take a long tour around the country, racing at all the famous tracks and major vintage events. Should be done this spring--or maybe the next.

So far I have completed fabrication of the rear hatch--turned out very nicely--and gutted the trailer.

While I'm asking questions, has anyone found an effective way to strip the vinyl cladding off the interior aluminum? So far nothing I've tried even loosens the stuff. I'd like to do a bare aluminum interior, but might have to let that one go unless there's a practical method of stripping this stuff.
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Old 10-26-2004, 06:57 AM   #2
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I'd be interested in knowing more about your electrical system. What type of Inverter are you planning to put in, and why so big? How many batteries does it take to run a 6 kw inverter?

Sounds like a very cool project. How many Peyotes are out there? Do you race with other cars, is there a special class for just Peyotes?
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Old 10-26-2004, 07:40 AM   #3
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interior stripping

Hey fellow lunatic,
Sounds like a way cool project. Post some pics along the way. I'd love to see that back hatch. As far ar stripping the interior vinyl, I have found the Jasco Paint and Epoxy stripper to work well. Just be patient with it. Apply it wait 15-20 minutes (let it bubble), and then start stripping. I use a plastic putty knife and it works well. Good luck,
Tom
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Old 10-26-2004, 07:41 AM   #4
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Billyb,
First of all that sounds like a dream trip. Traveling around from track to track racing a vintage car and staying in a cool retro trailer? What lottery did you win?

As far a removing the vinyl - it's pretty hard stuff on the newer interiors. You can try Airscraft Stripper from Kleen Strip (sold at AutoZone and Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) It comes in both spray on and "paint" on cans. It's VERY toxic stuff to breath and burns your skin so make sure you take all of the necessary precautions for ventilation, protection and safety. I was unsuccessful in removing the vinyl and have decided to either replace the interior panels with new aluminum or to "veneer" them with thinner sheets (I've experimented with 24" flashing rolls and it looks decent). (search on aluminum veneer or look at some posts from TinCanLuv about his veneering project.

I'm not a trailer guy (86 MH) so I'll just say to make sure your modifications take in effect the changes in weight and balance and stay within the capacity of the frame/shell. Hopefully some of the more experienced restorers will provide some advice on your structural modifications.

Other than that please post your progress along with pictures.
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Old 10-26-2004, 02:11 PM   #5
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The frame under your trailer is not designed to carry a lot of extra weight. If you add tools and a car ( even a light one) you will be asking for major frame issues, unless you build a new frame, or re-inforce the existing one for it's new task. Add all the weight, and see where you end up, I bet it's 40-50% over the regular max weight capacity of the trailer.
You will also need to beef up the axles, as well as the axle mounting plates.
Not to discourage you, but to make sure your time and money invested won't go to waste due to a weak frame structure.
You might be able to do most of the frame modifications from underneath, without having to remove the floor boards.
Best wishes!
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Old 10-26-2004, 09:34 PM   #6
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I've not had first hand experience (no vinyl on ours), but I've been told the Jasc Adhesive Remover works at removing the vinyl cladding...good luck!

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Old 11-02-2004, 01:13 AM   #7
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Comparable weights (I hope)

I'm concerned about the weight, but I keep telling myself it shouldn't be that much different. I took out the interior, and it was quite heavy. The car weighs 1550# and I'm going to try to control myself on the tools. I didn't weigh everything I took out, but my guess is that It was more than 1000#. This is a three axle trailer. It seems like I should be in the ballpark for the kind of weight this would normally carry when you add in all the stuff people usually carry to camp, plus water and black water tanks.

Still, I'm worried. I need to take the trailer in it's gutted state to so truck scales and see what it weighs. the weight of the trailer with all it's original stuff is 7400# according to the specs.
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Old 11-02-2004, 01:20 AM   #8
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One of a kind

I'm guessing on what I'll need for an inverter. I have a 2KW one in my current car hauler powered by two marine batteries. I've found several 6KW ones listed for sale on the web, I forget the manufacturer but it's a big brand--the same folks that made my inexpensive 2KW one. I'm planning on starting with four batteries and see how that goes. From what I've seen, solar charged systems tend to stay topped off most of the time.

There's only one Peyote--it was built in 1959 by a guy named Bill Ames in the midwest. A real garage job, but it's a fast and competitive car in vintage racing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I'd be interested in knowing more about your electrical system. What type of Inverter are you planning to put in, and why so big? How many batteries does it take to run a 6 kw inverter?

Sounds like a very cool project. How many Peyotes are out there? Do you race with other cars, is there a special class for just Peyotes?
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Old 11-02-2004, 01:21 AM   #9
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Strippers don't seem to work

I tried that, didn't dent the stuff. I guess I'm going to have to either live with it or replace it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
Billyb,
First of all that sounds like a dream trip. Traveling around from track to track racing a vintage car and staying in a cool retro trailer? What lottery did you win?

As far a removing the vinyl - it's pretty hard stuff on the newer interiors. You can try Airscraft Stripper from Kleen Strip (sold at AutoZone and Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) It comes in both spray on and "paint" on cans. It's VERY toxic stuff to breath and burns your skin so make sure you take all of the necessary precautions for ventilation, protection and safety. I was unsuccessful in removing the vinyl and have decided to either replace the interior panels with new aluminum or to "veneer" them with thinner sheets (I've experimented with 24" flashing rolls and it looks decent). (search on aluminum veneer or look at some posts from TinCanLuv about his veneering project.

I'm not a trailer guy (86 MH) so I'll just say to make sure your modifications take in effect the changes in weight and balance and stay within the capacity of the frame/shell. Hopefully some of the more experienced restorers will provide some advice on your structural modifications.

Other than that please post your progress along with pictures.
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