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Old 07-30-2007, 08:29 PM
  #1
goransons
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Profile:  1969 25' Tradewind
Yakima, Washington
Posts: 280
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po armed with a caulk gun - help

We've been reading, and have been inspired by sequoiacoast's 68 tradewind bathroom job with the tile-doc product. I've spent the last day and a half removing fixures and hardware, carefully bagging everything so that virtually all parts of bathroom can be sprayed (such as removing faucets, toilet, drain strainers and all wall accessories, lights etc). I've patiently been using caulk remover products and have removed what would look like 3 caulking tubes of silicone from the seams of the lower fixtures, however there is some type of very yellowed caulking that is harder than the plastic. I was able to chip some off with a razor blade, however I fear I'll crack the plastic with this method. I could sand it off but would destroy the slight texture to the plastic. I've read the exterior threads on silicone removal, but was concerned the paint strippers might melt the interior plastic. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing this stuff? Hoping another long day of elbow grease will get the bathroom ready for spray this weekend.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:41 PM
  #2
garry
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Profile:  1969 31' Sovereign
Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Posts: 613
Not sure but you could try a the Dremal tool ?

Garry
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:53 PM
  #3
klevan
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Profile:  Albuquerque, New Mexico
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Lowes has that which you seek...

Quote:
Originally Posted by goransons
Does anyone have any suggestions for removing this stuff? Hoping another long day of elbow grease will get the bathroom ready for spray this weekend.
It comes in a tube the same size and shape as DAP Tub and Tile Caulk.
It has a gooey consistency that keeps it where you apply it. It will soften all but silicone caulk. Tomorrow I will find my tube and provide the SKU number. Nobody at Lowes knew that they had it. I found it among the caulking compounds after the crack sales team assured me there was no such product.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:57 PM
  #4
Foiled Again
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Profile:  2005 22' International CCD
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Virginia Beach, Virginia
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Aha!

Try the edge of a credit card. If that works, then look for acrylic razor blades. I think I've even seen them at the big box hardware stores lately. OR go to the local "nail consultant" and get acrylic nails put on your fingers and go for it.

If you're a guy ask for the "French Manicure" nail - it will be mid length and less "noticable" than the dreaded two inch multi-colored claw. (You can clip or file them down after you've got the caulk out, but removing without professional help is not advised.)

I'm sorry, the made me say it!

Paula
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:14 PM
  #5
goransons
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Profile:  1969 25' Tradewind
Yakima, Washington
Posts: 280
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thanks Paula, I'll try the credit card trick tomorrow, though I don't think I'll go so far as the nails, the wife would be jealous!
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:28 PM
  #6
klevan
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Here It Is!...

Quote:
Originally Posted by klevan
It comes in a tube the same size and shape as DAP Tub and Tile Caulk.
It has a gooey consistency that keeps it where you apply it. It will soften all but silicone caulk. Tomorrow I will find my tube and provide the SKU number. Nobody at Lowes knew that they had it. I found it among the caulking compounds after the crack sales team assured me there was no such product.
The product on the left is DAP Caulk-Be-Gone. It works.

The product on the right is Mostenbocker's Lift Off. It does not work.
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:59 PM
  #7
overlander63
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
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Motormite makes plastic razor blades, you can use them also.
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:12 PM
  #8
klevan
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Profile:  Albuquerque, New Mexico
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I Tried the Plastic Razor Blades...

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Motormite makes plastic razor blades, you can use them also.
but they leave a stubble.

Seriously, I foundthe plastic blades pretty useless in removing so much caulk that I realized the axles didn't need replacing afterall.
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Old 07-31-2007, 10:31 PM
  #9
KeithC
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  1968 24' Tradewind
Mansfield, Georgia
Posts: 120
Try Home Depot, caulk remover. Apply it to the caulking, let it set for 2 hours, then remove the caulk remover and the caulking.
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Old 08-01-2007, 10:59 PM
  #10
goransons
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Profile:  1969 25' Tradewind
Yakima, Washington
Posts: 280
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just thought I'd give an update. I used the Dap caulk remover and it worked, well in two places it worked too well and actually softened the plastic some, but nothing a little resin and a careful sand tomorrow won't fix. I continued to clean caulk today for 6 hours. Mind you just in the bathroom I filled a plastic grocery bag FULL of caulk today and I was only working on half the bathroom (I took out two bags yesterday). I think the back of the trailer is higher with all the weight out. I still feel there is a chance there is some left too thin to see. Tomorrow I'm going to clean the whole area with rubbing alchohol (not the more fun type) and put on the tile doc. I'll post pics at the end of the weekend when I get a chance to bolt some things back in. At this point I think any place that could possibly have caulking residue on it would be covered with new caulking anyway. Thanks for all the tips. On a unrelated note, also borrowed on suction cup and was able to pull the one dent out of the street side rear corner, came out perfect. Lets hope the paint goes on that successful.
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Old 08-02-2007, 09:41 AM
  #11
sequoiacoast
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Profile:  1968 24' Tradewind
Eureka, California
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Good luck and post befores and afters!! I still have the caulk around the wall on the end-cap- it is about the stickiest caulk I've seen.

Are you going to spray it or brush it- and are you tinting it?
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Old 08-02-2007, 04:50 PM
  #12
goransons
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Profile:  1969 25' Tradewind
Yakima, Washington
Posts: 280
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Between coats

Well mid-day I sprayed several coats of the tile doc - in its natural white color on all the bathroom plastic, including the bulkhead, which was heavily scarred with different shower curtain mounting attempts, stains, and a few hairline cracks in the corners. I did find a couple small spots I'll sand, clean and respray after I've waited a few days for it to really cure, then go over the rest lightly with 400 grit sand per the instructions and put one final coat to really finish it out. I was able to remove and clean, and paint silver all the snap on trim. the somewhat discolored banding at seams is the shadows of the tracks that the plastic trim will snap over. We're happy with the difference already but going to do the one extra step just to put it over the top. Very happy with how the product lays out with my HVLP gun. Boy does this stuff stink, even with a resperator, but easy clean up with lacquer thinner as long as you do it within a few minutes. Here is a before picture, which doesn't give too much evidence of all the discolored spots from years of use and sun, and a few after pictures. I'll make sure to post some pictures later next week with all the interior back together.
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:04 PM
  #13
goransons
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Profile:  1969 25' Tradewind
Yakima, Washington
Posts: 280
Status: Online
Tile doc follow up

I'll post some more pictures next weekend, I did get the final coat on. Per recommendation from the sherwin williams guy, I touched up those areas I repaired with a small amount of tile doc with a natural bristle brush, and let those sit for a few minutes, one I had to hit a second time with a brush damp with thinner to get rid of the brush marks. After I let that flash I came back with two light coats of Tile doc with the HVLP gravity feed gun and the results were absolutely incredible, much more than we ever imagined. I've got a camp to run this next week then I can install the final trim and fixtures and floor and we'll post more photos.
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Old 08-03-2007, 08:24 PM
  #14
sequoiacoast
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Profile:  1968 24' Tradewind
Eureka, California
Posts: 690
It's looking awesome already; I can't wait to see the final results!
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