Plumbing Problem??

[PharmGeek]

Thanks for the drawer idea - I'll need a solution for sure

These little brackets that attach to rails are attached very poorly - going to try wood glue for now but my cut a new piece to attach screws to and use a real piece of wood perhaps...

[SeeMore]

Hints on both items:

Definitely use the white teflon tape when inserting the nylon hot water heater plug. If you read the fine print, you'll discover the recommendation to replace the plug after every use - umph :-(

It is super easy to cross-thread the plug upon insertion. Try turning the plug counter-clockwise until you feel the indent drop into place between the threads before reversing direction to fully tighten. I keep spares and replace every 2 or 3 times.

The catch latches at the back of the drawers come in two tensions. The ones installed in my trailer were the 10 pound version and broke or released easily. I upgraded them to the heavier, 50 lb version as they failed. PS - a hassle, but move the catches sideways to another section rather than attempt to repair the particle board for remounting.

In addition, I bought a 'jar' of bungees at Walmart for a few bucks (a collection of 8 in different sizes/lengths/colors) and use them to keep the drawers and cabinet doors closed. It is easy to hook the upper handle and pull to the lower, crossing the 'tweeners, and all is well on arrival even after some pretty rough dirt sections.

[SeeMore]

PharmGeek -

I meant to ask how you like your new HD Ram as a tow vehicle after the Top Sail run? If it is like mine, it is hard to tell the trailer is even back there!

of the road!

[PharmGeek]

"The catch latches at the back of the drawers come in two tensions."

I need to look closer at what exactly is clicking and holding the drawers in place I suppose...may have missed this latch mechanism....but I assume it is a 10 lb latch as well...maybe making it more heavy duty would fix things....but how annoying to open such a heavier duty latch? If not particularly difficult, then so be it....

where do you find such latches? may give that a try...CAstreamer...did this not work for you? I think you mentioned that for you it failed to work...?

also, just looking on amazon, what plug do I buy...

"It is super easy to cross-thread the plug upon insertion. Try ......"

Also, im not exactly sure I followed the advice here....I know....I can be a real dullard....but just keeping it real.

Thanks again.

I definately will have to experiment with bungees if not as a temporary fix if anything else...although not sure where all I can run them to keep things secure.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by SeeMore

... Try turning the plug counter-clockwise until you feel the indent drop into place between the threads before reversing direction to fully tighten ...

That's excellent advice. It applies to self threading screws in other materials also by making sure the threads engage the original and doesn't cross thread and cut new ones weakening the junction.

Try to resist the temptation to replace the plastic plug with a brass one. Atwood discourages it because of the potential problems associated with dissimilar metals. I carry a pair of the plastic plugs in case I or a fellow camper is in need.

The pump should not cycle between water use. Try feeling for moisture at the connections under the sinks, around the pump, behind the city water inlet, anywhere you can reach. Watch real closely under the trailer. If nothing can be found, it could be debris in the pump or a faulty pump that is allowing water to leak back through it.

An occasional minor drip at the relief valve on the water heater when it's cooking is not unusual, but in theory it shouldn't do it either.

The hand tightened trap connections under the sink sometimes have a way of working loose enough to drip over time. Presumably this applies to the shower trap also. It looks like if I took the furnace vent loose in the bedroom on mine someone with a long skinny arm might be able to reach in there to tighten it if necessary.

The first time I winterized my 27FB, I spotted an extra valve below the cutoff valves, behind the WH. There was nothing in the book about it so I emailed a picture to the dealer where I bought it and they didn't recognize it so I called the factory and they told me it was a low point drain in addition to the 2 that were described in the book. It exited below the trailer through a PVC stub... Seems like little things like that never make it to the updates in later manuals.

[PharmGeek]

Originally Posted by SeeMore

PharmGeek -

I meant to ask how you like your new HD Ram as a tow vehicle after the Top Sail run? If it is like mine, it is hard to tell the trailer is even back there!

of the road!

Being that I have never towed such a lengthy and heavier trailer in my life, I am at a loss to know how it compares....but I will say this...

pulling up moderate hills, the thing barely has to work...and as far as acceleration...it is stellar.....my old Toyota T100 even pulling around its own weight was sluggish....this thing is peppy acceleration with 7k + lbs behind it so quite impressive to say the least.

We brought it up monte sano state park which is up a small mountain...up it was cake....down it also was cake...with the exhaust brake and in tow/haul mode....the thing just cruised down the mountain with no stress for me...did not have to break hardly....often in regular driving on the highway, I dont have to break, just let off gas if traffic slowing etc and from 60 to 35mph with no brakes needed, beyond that it seems I need brakes.

By itself its a big azz truck, sucks to park, terrible gas mileage as a daily (13.4mpg total for canopener trip by end of it, terrible gas mileage for any stop and go city driving) - handles like a big azz truck...luckily I dont use it as a daily or I would likely feel some annoyance by it.

Odd little fring benefit was that I could shove the kid's red wagon under the taller 3/4 ton truck, and other stuff when rain approached to keep stuff dry...that was a nice perk...it being tall is a bit annoying to get in and out of trunk, but im 30 years of age, so jumping in and out of it is no sweat at this point....could see how that taller height would be annoying...would love one of those bed slides way on down the road....

As a tow vehicle I am quite satisfied with the purchase...feel safe, confident...but as far as comparison I have nothing to compare to and assume many other setups work quite well...

[PharmGeek]

silver goose...I think i too found such a valve behind the water heater last night as I inspected it....

regarding the water pump cycling....at least at this point it seems obvious it is from the hot water heater plug leaking...quite a steady trickling of water from the plug...very noticeable...easily could account for the 3 min loss of small amount of pressure I assume....but I definately will keep an eye on traps....never thought about those working lose...guess road vibrations can do alot...drawers fall out, stuff losens...rivets pop...whatever....

What we need is the technology in those future hover skateboards in back to the future for our trailer....no blowouts, and perfectly smooth in tow...

[PharmGeek]

totally unrelated, but a near bad snafu on way back from canopener...pulled out of site...then pulled to dumpster right quick..opened tailgate (I have a bed cover as well), took a bit of trash out, threw it in dumpster...drove up the road 20 miles to get gas...woops, tailgage was open...empty propate tank sitting still secure in the back there near tailgate...details details

Ran checklist thoroughly before pulling out of site...crossed T's dotted I's...closing tailgate after opening it on way out was not on my checklist....

[TinShack]

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

"The catch latches at the back of the drawers come in two tensions."

I need to look closer at what exactly is clicking and holding the drawers in place I suppose...may have missed this latch mechanism....but I assume it is a 10 lb latch as well...maybe making it more heavy duty would fix things....but how annoying to open such a heavier duty latch? If not particularly difficult, then so be it....

where do you find such latches? may give that a try...CAstreamer...did this not work for you? I think you mentioned that for you it failed to work...?

also, just looking on amazon, what plug do I buy...

"It is super easy to cross-thread the plug upon insertion. Try ......"

Also, im not exactly sure I followed the advice here....I know....I can be a real dullard....but just keeping it real.

Thanks again.

I definately will have to experiment with bungees if not as a temporary fix if anything else...although not sure where all I can run them to keep things secure.

Any body that can handle two or more topics in one thread is certainly NOT a dullard!

I replaced my catches with the same 10lb type. I knew they made 5 and 10 lb catches but I have never seen 50lb catches. They must be strong! I did find an article about upgrading to brass catches. You can adjust the tension with a screw adjustment. I may try these and lose the sliding latches if they work.
Here's the article... Easy RV Mod -> Upgrade Your Drawer Latches | Wheeling It

[PharmGeek]

Oh those look promising - may order them soon and see how they go!!

[SeeMore]

Oops.. typo. I meant ~15 pounds. I have latches like those referenced in CA Streamer's link. Adjusting the screw increases pressure to what I guess is about 15 lbs. It is just noticeably harder but my wife never noticed.

As for the plugs: Atwood Drain Plug - 2pk

Your RAM is big, there is no doubt about that. Looking into the cab of the professional rigs as they pass will confirm your higher elevation. Trucking along definitely takes on a new meaning.

You already experienced the beauty of the Jake brake and travels through truly mountainous areas like the Rockies will be a delight. Your mileage should improve somewhat over time. It takes a long while for a diesel to fully break in. I just made a similar trip to Apalachicola the weekend before CanOpener and averaged 14.2 in mine and I have a heavier unit with the slide out.

[PharmGeek]

See more - I didn't get to see your slide out unit - hope to see it next time!

I have 50 k miles on my 2010 RAM

Cannot wait to go out west in the airstream - could be a long wait but we think it is possible in 2015 or 2016 - assuming 2 weeks is enough for some sort of such trip

Ordering the plugs tonight and will likely try those brass latches

See more - did we meet at canopener? Forget your name if do with respect to your handle

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

... but I definately will keep an eye on traps....never thought about those working lose...guess road vibrations can do alot...drawers fall out, stuff losens...rivets pop...whatever ...

I wish I could find where I read it, but someone stated that an RV experiences a 6.5 or better earthquake several times a minute as it goes down the road. I'm tickled when I find only the seat cushions have rearranged themselves when I arrive at my destination. There's a seismograph app for the iPhone. I may have to duct tape the thing to the counter on my next trip to see how accurate that statement is, but the analogy is reasonable.

[PharmGeek]

Originally Posted by Silver Goose

I wish I could find where I read it, but someone stated that an RV experiences a 6.5 or better earthquake several times a minute as it goes down the road. I'm tickled when I find only the seat cushions have rearranged themselves when I arrive at my destination. There's a seismograph app for the iPhone. I may have to duct tape the thing to the counter on my next trip to see how accurate that statement is, but the analogy is reasonable.

hahaha, good idea....I will await the results with baited breath.

I ordered the atwood drain plugs, bought some plumbers tape for threads, and ordered 4 of those brass latches (18 bucks in total)....ill update you all with how that works out.

After replacing the plug and fixing that problem, I hope that will prevent the pump from cycling.

I made a screw up after that night I was fiddling with this all...I had the water pump on doing all this...then left it on accidentally...next morning (4.5 hours later) I went to get something in the trailer and the pump was running continuously....I suspect the water just dripped out eventually enough to the point that no amount of pumping could get pressure up and thus continuous running...I hope this did not screw anything up with the pump...I have read on here that it running dry is not particularly harmful....but that is alot a runnin...

[adonh]

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

CAstreamer appears to have been right!!!

I had to remove drawers to get to where the drain was at (near water pump) and finally found the drain valve under some other loose pipes of some sort...it was set to wide open....closed it....now nothing comes out and water is much more robust to the toilet....

YAAAAYYYYYY!!!!

You all rock!

Stupid manual gives no clue about this drain valve location....

ok, now I can go to sleep



PS - PERHAPS this was the source of a bit of the pressure loss?? I will in the coming days go back and see if water pump cycles at all....before I closed the valve it bumped every 4-5 minutes or so...im hoping this was the source of that problem although im not so sure.....hmmmm

Ok goodnight yall

Call Airstream and find out who won the "POOL" on how long it would take to find the open valve they left open.

[idroba]

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

Unrelated to this a couple of the drawers came out during trip back and ripped off a couple of the mechanisms that de-latch the drawer from the rails - screws holding them in into strip of particle board not impressive - drawers still work though - no real damage per se

On my 2014 FC 20' the drawer mechanism sliders were very poorly attached to the drawers with two very small screws put into the front face of the drawer. One drawer plywood had already been broken the day I took delivery. It was glued back in place then by the dealer.

Since I got it home, I looked carefully at the drawer attachment system and found that there are additional holes in the metal which can be used to much more firmly attach the slider to the drawer. I bought some 3/16 long about #4 or 6 wood screws and put them in the additional locations with a dollop of white glue to hold them in place better (over the original screw tops too). I have had no problems since doing this. Airstream should use all the screw locations available, not just two little flimsy ones on each slider.

I would advise anyone with a 2014 to look at their drawer mechanism attachment and add the needed screws. Since 2014 was when the factory changed to full extension drawer sliders, I don't know if this applies to 2013's and earlier.

[PharmGeek]

Yes! Same for me - two small screws T an angle - takes very little to rip up the wood it goes into - I'm going to use wood glue and look for extra holes as you suggested thanks!!

[switz]

When you see how fast the cabinet makers are moving on the assembly line, no wonder only two screws get installed. And the tour guide yesterday said they are working to increase production from 51 to 53 units per week.

Maybe in the near future, a big truck will show up and dump all the trailer parts on your front lawn and the shipping label from Airstream will say "Some assembly required! Enjoy your new trailer!" That would be full circle from the drawings Wally originally sold to make the trailers.

[m.hony]

Sounds like either the low point drain (my trailer has 2, I assume for hot water line and cold water line) or the drain for the potable water tank.
If I remember correctly, the low point drains are brass pipe with small metal valves.
These low point drains are curb side between the 2 wheels.
The drain for the potable water tank is a white PVC pipe with a white plastic valve.
This drain is street side between the 2 wheels.
Your trailer could be altogether different (kinda like the 2nd A/C and Fantastic fan thing and macerator/holding tank situation).
We are looking for more cold weather in the forecast so I will be winterizing again today.

[PharmGeek]

Originally Posted by adonh

Call Airstream and find out who won the "POOL" on how long it would take to find the open valve they left open.

Haha - well - it was not easy per se - the manual was of no help - which is odd because for winterizing I would think opening that is crucial.

Switz - so it seems! Kinda disappointing of course but kinda was within my expectations per research on here - which is not a categorical ringing endorsement of craftsmanship

Overall everything seems well put together...so far....the door arch to bathroom is cheesy as he'll and that door will need a tad of adjustment - the metal mechanism rubs too much upon closure

The latches on outside storage seem like cheesy garbage

Overall minor quibbles