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Old 01-14-2014, 12:47 AM   #15
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CAstreamer appears to have been right!!!

I had to remove drawers to get to where the drain was at (near water pump) and finally found the drain valve under some other loose pipes of some sort...it was set to wide open....closed it....now nothing comes out and water is much more robust to the toilet....

YAAAAYYYYYY!!!!

You all rock!

Stupid manual gives no clue about this drain valve location....

ok, now I can go to sleep

PS - PERHAPS this was the source of a bit of the pressure loss?? I will in the coming days go back and see if water pump cycles at all....before I closed the valve it bumped every 4-5 minutes or so...im hoping this was the source of that problem although im not so sure.....hmmmm

Ok goodnight yall
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:55 AM   #16
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Nope - counted still small bump of water pump at 3 min interval
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:58 AM   #17
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Water heater plug leaking - lol

Seriously going to sleep now
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:56 AM   #18
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i the first few weeks of use my water heater vent weeped on occasion. while you're looking around check the trap connections. my lav sink trap started dripping and both sink traps were very loose.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:24 AM   #19
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At dealer I filled both sinks - drained and watched traps and all to look for leaks - dry as a bone back then

Looks like now I just need to put on some plumbers tape around water heater drain plug or replace - someone had recommended I keep a spare one of these and also to try putty on threads

I'm very happy about the water fix though - huge relief

Unrelated to this a couple of the drawers came out during trip back and ripped off a couple of the mechanisms that de-latch the drawer from the rails - screws holding them in into strip of particle board not impressive - drawers still work though - no real damage per se
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Unrelated to this a couple of the drawers came out during trip back and ripped off a couple of the mechanisms that de-latch the drawer from the rails - screws holding them in into strip of particle board not impressive - drawers still work though - no real damage per se
Glad I could help you with the plumbing problem. I had a couple of large drawers in the bedroom that would continually come out during travel. The latch at the rear of the drawers would not hold them in. Tried replacing the latches and that did not work. I also tried velcro between the drawer frame and back of the drawer front and that didn't work either. I finally just put a couple sliding travel latches on the front of the drawers and that worked. I just have to remember to latch them now.
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:35 PM   #21
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Thanks for the drawer idea - I'll need a solution for sure

These little brackets that attach to rails are attached very poorly - going to try wood glue for now but my cut a new piece to attach screws to and use a real piece of wood perhaps...
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:52 PM   #22
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Hints on both items:

Definitely use the white teflon tape when inserting the nylon hot water heater plug. If you read the fine print, you'll discover the recommendation to replace the plug after every use - umph :-(

It is super easy to cross-thread the plug upon insertion. Try turning the plug counter-clockwise until you feel the indent drop into place between the threads before reversing direction to fully tighten. I keep spares and replace every 2 or 3 times.

The catch latches at the back of the drawers come in two tensions. The ones installed in my trailer were the 10 pound version and broke or released easily. I upgraded them to the heavier, 50 lb version as they failed. PS - a hassle, but move the catches sideways to another section rather than attempt to repair the particle board for remounting.

In addition, I bought a 'jar' of bungees at Walmart for a few bucks (a collection of 8 in different sizes/lengths/colors) and use them to keep the drawers and cabinet doors closed. It is easy to hook the upper handle and pull to the lower, crossing the 'tweeners, and all is well on arrival even after some pretty rough dirt sections.
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:14 PM   #23
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PharmGeek -

I meant to ask how you like your new HD Ram as a tow vehicle after the Top Sail run? If it is like mine, it is hard to tell the trailer is even back there!

of the road!
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:27 PM   #24
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"The catch latches at the back of the drawers come in two tensions."

I need to look closer at what exactly is clicking and holding the drawers in place I suppose...may have missed this latch mechanism....but I assume it is a 10 lb latch as well...maybe making it more heavy duty would fix things....but how annoying to open such a heavier duty latch? If not particularly difficult, then so be it....

where do you find such latches? may give that a try...CAstreamer...did this not work for you? I think you mentioned that for you it failed to work...?

also, just looking on amazon, what plug do I buy...

"It is super easy to cross-thread the plug upon insertion. Try ......"

Also, im not exactly sure I followed the advice here....I know....I can be a real dullard....but just keeping it real.

Thanks again.

I definately will have to experiment with bungees if not as a temporary fix if anything else...although not sure where all I can run them to keep things secure.
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:34 PM   #25
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... Try turning the plug counter-clockwise until you feel the indent drop into place between the threads before reversing direction to fully tighten ...

That's excellent advice. It applies to self threading screws in other materials also by making sure the threads engage the original and doesn't cross thread and cut new ones weakening the junction.

Try to resist the temptation to replace the plastic plug with a brass one. Atwood discourages it because of the potential problems associated with dissimilar metals. I carry a pair of the plastic plugs in case I or a fellow camper is in need.

The pump should not cycle between water use. Try feeling for moisture at the connections under the sinks, around the pump, behind the city water inlet, anywhere you can reach. Watch real closely under the trailer. If nothing can be found, it could be debris in the pump or a faulty pump that is allowing water to leak back through it.

An occasional minor drip at the relief valve on the water heater when it's cooking is not unusual, but in theory it shouldn't do it either.

The hand tightened trap connections under the sink sometimes have a way of working loose enough to drip over time. Presumably this applies to the shower trap also. It looks like if I took the furnace vent loose in the bedroom on mine someone with a long skinny arm might be able to reach in there to tighten it if necessary.

The first time I winterized my 27FB, I spotted an extra valve below the cutoff valves, behind the WH. There was nothing in the book about it so I emailed a picture to the dealer where I bought it and they didn't recognize it so I called the factory and they told me it was a low point drain in addition to the 2 that were described in the book. It exited below the trailer through a PVC stub... Seems like little things like that never make it to the updates in later manuals.
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:35 PM   #26
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PharmGeek -

I meant to ask how you like your new HD Ram as a tow vehicle after the Top Sail run? If it is like mine, it is hard to tell the trailer is even back there!

of the road!

Being that I have never towed such a lengthy and heavier trailer in my life, I am at a loss to know how it compares....but I will say this...

pulling up moderate hills, the thing barely has to work...and as far as acceleration...it is stellar.....my old Toyota T100 even pulling around its own weight was sluggish....this thing is peppy acceleration with 7k + lbs behind it so quite impressive to say the least.

We brought it up monte sano state park which is up a small mountain...up it was cake....down it also was cake...with the exhaust brake and in tow/haul mode....the thing just cruised down the mountain with no stress for me...did not have to break hardly....often in regular driving on the highway, I dont have to break, just let off gas if traffic slowing etc and from 60 to 35mph with no brakes needed, beyond that it seems I need brakes.

By itself its a big azz truck, sucks to park, terrible gas mileage as a daily (13.4mpg total for canopener trip by end of it, terrible gas mileage for any stop and go city driving) - handles like a big azz truck...luckily I dont use it as a daily or I would likely feel some annoyance by it.

Odd little fring benefit was that I could shove the kid's red wagon under the taller 3/4 ton truck, and other stuff when rain approached to keep stuff dry...that was a nice perk...it being tall is a bit annoying to get in and out of trunk, but im 30 years of age, so jumping in and out of it is no sweat at this point....could see how that taller height would be annoying...would love one of those bed slides way on down the road....

As a tow vehicle I am quite satisfied with the purchase...feel safe, confident...but as far as comparison I have nothing to compare to and assume many other setups work quite well...
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:39 PM   #27
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silver goose...I think i too found such a valve behind the water heater last night as I inspected it....

regarding the water pump cycling....at least at this point it seems obvious it is from the hot water heater plug leaking...quite a steady trickling of water from the plug...very noticeable...easily could account for the 3 min loss of small amount of pressure I assume....but I definately will keep an eye on traps....never thought about those working lose...guess road vibrations can do alot...drawers fall out, stuff losens...rivets pop...whatever....

What we need is the technology in those future hover skateboards in back to the future for our trailer....no blowouts, and perfectly smooth in tow...
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:44 PM   #28
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totally unrelated, but a near bad snafu on way back from canopener...pulled out of site...then pulled to dumpster right quick..opened tailgate (I have a bed cover as well), took a bit of trash out, threw it in dumpster...drove up the road 20 miles to get gas...woops, tailgage was open...empty propate tank sitting still secure in the back there near tailgate...details details

Ran checklist thoroughly before pulling out of site...crossed T's dotted I's...closing tailgate after opening it on way out was not on my checklist....
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