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Old 09-11-2014, 05:37 AM   #15
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1948 22' Liner
1989 34' Limited
long beach , Mississippi
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We had the bathroom partially disassembled and had a friend paint it.. Not quiet sure what brand of paint he used, but it was made for plastics

As for the access hole, this was similar to what I did, except I cut 4 corner holes with a 2" hole saw and then cut it out. I need up making an access plate for it. Unfortunately do not have any pic.


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Old 09-11-2014, 06:37 AM   #16
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1972 31' Sovereign
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On my 75 access is different, and possibly my copper was slightly less damaged, but on a couple of fixtures I left a foot or so of the original copper in place and flared the pipe to accept fitting to adapt to PEX.

I did this for ease of installation, made possible by this last foot or so of copper near the fixture valves having not been frozen before.
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:12 AM   #17
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1966 22' Safari
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Both in same access hole under sink

Quote:
Originally Posted by My66Dino View Post
We have a 1966 Airstream Trade Wind. I'm replacing all of the copper water lines with pex because the copper has more holes than swiss cheese. I've been able to disconnect the copper every where except for at the shower/sink.
This particular shower/sink is an all in one. My daughter was able to disconnect from the back of the sink but she was not able to get anywhere with the shower. Anyone ever run into this problem before?
I'll try to get some pics to post to give y'all a better idea. Not much room to work with from what she said and I'd rather NOT unrivet the sink and remove it unless absolutely necessary.
Thanks,
New Airstream Owner.
Don't know if your Tradewind is the same as our '66 Safari--rear bath with sink overhanging the tub. If so, access to the fittings for the shower are through the same access hole under the sink as those for the sink.

You have to be on your back in the tub with your head under the sink to get there. I find that a small crescent wrench with wide jaws is the most useful tool in that area.

Good luck!
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:25 AM   #18
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I had a similar problem. Solved by leaving a "tail" of copper and a shark bite pex to copper. Just put the fitting on the pex and pushed the end onto the copper.
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Old 10-10-2014, 05:00 PM   #19
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prairieville , Louisiana
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Finally got pics and a handy tool

Finally got pics of underneath and behind both the shower and sink facets. Also, bought a long handle tool specifically for facets. I'm hoping this will help since the wife wants to replace the sink facet and I'm not ready to cut it off in fear of doing damage to the fiberglass sink.
My daughter took all the pictures and it is viewable to the public.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=5b3a81522d
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Old 10-11-2014, 09:48 PM   #20
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Let us know how this works, please.
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Old 10-11-2014, 11:53 PM   #21
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Dino, If you can feel it, you can remove it. I did the same thing on my 64 Safari. I think home depot or Lowe's have swivel angled ratcheting end wrenches, cheep. I had mine out so it was easier for me to do. While it was out I had all of my pieces gel-coated white. However you can take them out in place. You just need to be a bit of a contortionist with the right tool. Take the nuts off the back of both faucets. Done. LOL, if you think getting the old ones off is bad wait until you put the new ones on. Just Kidding.
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:19 PM   #22
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Smile DONE finally

Thanks to you guys for all of the advice and my daughter who can fit into tiny spaces. We were able to get all of the copper tubing out and detached. She was able to cut the copper at back of the shower faucet and then slip a box wrench on the back and take them off. She was also able to get the cold water detached at the back of the kitchen sink. Now we have reinforced braided connectors on all faucets and ready to attache to PEX.
We also bought a new water pump since we were redoing the plumbing.
Thanks again guys.
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