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Old 06-18-2010, 05:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLGT5107 View Post
...Lower left: Fiberglass laid over old bezel after wax and gelcoat. Mold is sitting on my plywood buck which is not a requirement but makes the messy buisiness more controllable, ....
I assumed that the mold over the old part wouldn't have that kind of detail on the "outside." Got it.


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...Lower right New "mold" has been removed from old bezel "plug".Sitting in second plywood buck There are some minor sanding scratches and pin holes as well as some lines from a couple unrepaired cracks that I am smoothing out so they wont
be in final "part"....
I couldn't ever have figured this out. My eyes were telling me that I was looking at something that was proud, not recessed. As soon as I started looking for it to be the mold, POP, it flipped to the correct configuration!

Thanks.

Zep
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:07 PM   #16
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I just removed the rear end cap in mine. It just needs to be painted and maybe a few minor scratch repairs. When you remove it you get a sense of how big it is. Its really big, I don't even know where I'm going to store it. It is extremely flexible and will be difficult to get out of the trailer without cracking. It could be easily used as a plug for a new mold, but would require a lot or set up time and space for staging and bracing. The material costs will be substantial. When I get to the front of the trailer I may cut out existing cabinet opening and match rear profile. This will give me more flexibility in building storage there. Also I will be working in wood which I have a better feel for.
Your end caps are probably fiberglass, and if so, very durable and flexible. If they are VERY thin and cracking, they are abs plastic garbage.
I'm thinking of making a wood or aluminum front end cap for my Safari. I don't like the formed front end cap either.
If you have abs you can fiberglass the back of it to strengthen it, and then bondo any holes and cracks prior to painting it.

Best to you,
Rich the Viking

P S. I was able to walk out the door of my Safari carrying each end cap by myself. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be....
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:44 PM   #17
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Zepp, I dont want to hijack your thread, just thought relevent.
From what Ive researched, the mold suface should be pretty rigid and smooth. I know some people use the foam but dont know how they
handle the porosity other than bondo or equivelent. The other question would be , will the resin attack the foam? Primer on the mold will be sufficient , I used gelcoat just to get the feel for it prior to the finished product. The fiberglass suppliers have an inexpensive "parting solution" to spray on the mold , which greatly eases removable. Im trying to work out a mold similar to yours for black tank, but am concerned about having a seam.
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Old 06-22-2010, 09:06 PM   #18
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You're right about the foam. It needs a hard, smooth surface. You can get that with bondo and epoxy paint. You can even paint some resin with filler (wood dust or micro balloons) on it, then sand lightly.

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Old 06-22-2010, 09:34 PM   #19
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JLGT5107, don't worry about a seam. Once the 2 parts are married together, They can be sealed with the same material you make the tank out of. Just be sure to reinforce it with the tiger hair or whatever you
ll be using to make the tank.

Ricky
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:21 AM   #20
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Zep,

Looks like your project is off to a good start. I assume you are replacing a cracked shower pan that is no longer available or is extremely expensive.

I was wondering if it was possible to take the broken pan and lay up some new fiberglass on the inside, then gel coating it for a clean and restored look? I only know a little about fiberglass work but assuming you could get a good bond between the new and existing resins, the restored and reinforced pan would be pretty strong.

Christopher
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:44 AM   #21
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...
I was wondering if it was possible to take the broken pan and lay up some new fiberglass on the inside, then gel coating it for a clean and restored look? ...
I don't think the fiberglass pans are still available. A quote for a copper replacement was $266.

The old pan was still working, but 50+ year old fiberglass tends to bow. All the sides are bowed in at the mid-point of each top edge about an inch, so it's not a good mold.

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Old 07-10-2010, 05:47 PM   #22
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How many layers of fiberglass do you think it is going to take?Am building a fiberglass pan also. But am building mine inside the space.
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:44 PM   #23
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In Mold Making you must have a 2% degree of draft. Shrinkage and any negitive will cause difficulties in getting the mold to release. Also bee's wax can be helpfull. Last but not least, round over any 90 degree edges !/8 to 1/4 round.
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:56 AM   #24
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It will depend on the ounce weight cloth you are using? I would consider using 8 ounce carbon fiber cloth for strength and the look but it's it is much more expensing. To answer your question, I'd use 2 layer of 8 ounce fiber glass cloth with gel coat. Then 1 layer of 4 ounce fiber cloth using finish coat for your exposed top surface. Be sure to included in the finish coat a product called Rhino Grip sip-resistant to ensure safety. White cap sell it for sealers on gloss pool decks. I am in the Southern California area and purchase my glassing material at Cr
Crystaliner Corporation
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1626 Placentia Avenue
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(949) 548-5623
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:39 PM   #25
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Ok. Not so smart. Some days. Have totaly miscalculated How much stuff I would need. Got Stuff at Home Depot. Might have enough stuff for Chihuahua sized shower pan.So . I have a partial layer down. I used the heavy duty clothe and fiberglass resin. What is the difference in the resin and the gel coat?What about getting stuff at auto parts store?Would really like to get this done this weekend so would rather not order off internet .If I could find it local. That would be better.
Local is still almost 60 miles one way .
The pan size is 31" x34"x9" any help in calculating amount of clothe and resin would be appreciated.
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Old 07-15-2010, 09:58 PM   #26
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Thats a tough one Gyp. I know you will need at least two layers of heavy cloth, as land shark said, and auto parts places are notoriously expensive for this stuff, if they even carry it in big pieces. A home improvement store, or a boat repair place would be better.(where's wh, Arizona anyways?) Not a lot of boating places in Arizona I'm guessing.
You need about a gallon of resin for all three layers. It should be pressed into the weave of the cloth, and then scrapped off as much as possible.
If you were to split the corners of your pan and lay it out flat, you would need a piece of cloth 49" by 52" to cover it. I would use this figure to determine how much cloth to get. You need three layers that will cover that size. If the pieces are not wide enough, and you need to seam it together, allow 2" overlap at seams for strength.
I hope this helps. Good luck Gypsy Jo. I'll see you down the road.
Rich the Viking
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Old 07-15-2010, 10:43 PM   #27
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I found a marine shop in Henderson Nevada that has large pieces of clothe and also resin.I did some better calculating and I think 16 square feet would be more than enough per layer.I hope that a gallon of resin is enough the price seemed expensive but probably worth it.
Thanks for the help Viking.
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Old 07-16-2010, 01:55 AM   #28
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I understand if you press on regardless but again, I recommend you reconsider the use of home depot's material's. UPS will send you the material needed in a weeks time from crystaliner in southern california. You will have ridges at each place where you lap your joints. The resin available at the home depot is a finish coat resin. As you asked, Gel coat never cure 100% and has flex to it. This is what allows for a trailers movement and the weight of a person standing on the pan. After a light sand on the gel coat with 8 oz cloth you will then lay the 4 oz. cloth with finish resin which will then dry completely. Add the anti slip additive. Fiber glassing is a slow methodical process. Not easy! but very forgiving because you can sand it. The large bolts of cloth are 52" wide by any length you decide to order. Use a little less catalyzer to allow for more working time another benefit of warmer weather, it will take of. Best to use a hard rubber applicator to avoid trapping air. Work steady but do not rush. I have built light weight high gloss resin furniture and hunderds of surf boards. Your not going to want to experience doing this twice. Make sure you are well ventilated, wearing rubber gloves and wearing a charcoal respirator. These are nasty fumes. Post what you decided and how it turns out!
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