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Old 06-12-2012, 03:08 PM   #1
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1974 27' Overlander
Lebanon , Oregon
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Help on gently gutting the bathroom

Hi all,

Here's a hopefully easy question from a new guy. I want to take the shower, sink, and toilet out of my '74 Overlander (rear bath). We're going to refinish them so I need to remove them gently. I would leave them in there but the frame under the waste tanks is pretty much rusted out and I want to check the frame under the bathroom floor.

Any advise on how to get the fixtures out without damaging them? I see screws into the floor along the shower but other than that I don't see where to start. I'm guessing the fasteners are behind the little bands of rubbery trim along the walls. Am I guessing right?

Thanks for the help!
--Bryan
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:21 PM   #2
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1980 31' Excella II
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Originally Posted by whitefishblu View Post
Hi all,

Here's a hopefully easy question from a new guy. I want to take the shower, sink, and toilet out of my '74 Overlander (rear bath). We're going to refinish them so I need to remove them gently. I would leave them in there but the frame under the waste tanks is pretty much rusted out and I want to check the frame under the bathroom floor.

Any advise on how to get the fixtures out without damaging them? I see screws into the floor along the shower but other than that I don't see where to start. I'm guessing the fasteners are behind the little bands of rubbery trim along the walls. Am I guessing right?

Thanks for the help!
--Bryan
Yup you guessed right. There are rivets behind the insert that holds the extrusions to the wall, and then there are rivets behind that. Just take it slow and easy and take lots and lots of pictures as you go.

I have attached a scan of how to take the bath apart as well as parts drawing. Enjoy!

Aaron
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:47 PM   #3
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And remember if it isn't coming out there is one more rivet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:27 PM   #4
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1970 27' Overlander
Houston , Texas
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Always!
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:00 PM   #5
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1973 27' Overlander
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St. Paul , Minnesota
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It is wise and smart to want to remove the built-ins just to clean behind them, let alone renew all the fixtures and framing. Take a deep breath and read on, the trailer is finished and built up from the rear end wall forward, there is no reversing the process to suit merely our convenience.

To accomplish what you want the rear partition needs to be removed - which means the overhead lockers and beds or any built-ins attached fore of the partition needs to be removed to get access to hidden screws and rivets that lets you remove the sliding pocket door partition itself.

Then you will have the keys to the executive washroom.

Not to discourage anyone, but the attachments date from April/May 2007 and this 1973 Overlander is still nowhere near being road ready - beware poking & teasing the Jabberwocky since it may reveal itself as more than you wanted to find out!
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:14 PM   #6
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Sault ste Marie , Ontario
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Just so happens I am doing that very thing now. Started to just change out the toilet for a composting unit so I could get more grey water capacity and then decided due to floor rot and bad copper lines to go ahead and do it all at once. You can just gut the bathroom without taking out the bulkhead, but you have to be careful of some fasteners that come through the curb side bulkhead from fwd. There were four screws mounting the vertical shower valve panel to the bulkhead with the heads on the fwd side. I cut the top one and managed to get the rest out with a right angled screw driver and certain WORDS that children should not hear. You will probably find a few more surprises as you progress but with care,(if it doesn't want to move it's still attached somewhere.) It's doable. The sink and tub drains were fun, had to fabricate tools, and the plastic insert strips in the aluminum trim won't survive removal intact if they're original but will expose the rivets that have to come out.....Phil.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:51 AM   #7
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'74 Overlander's: It's about time!

It's nice to finally see more '74 Overlanders showing up.
I've been working on mine for 2 years and rarely find anyone else out there working on them.
Keep the post coming and let me know if I can be of any assistance.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:34 AM   #8
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1974 27' Overlander
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Thanks! I've noticed that my forum searches don't come up with a lot of posts on Overlanders. We sure like the layout of ours. This forum is really an amazing resource and I'm touched by how much people are willing to help each other. What a cool place!

I've been taking pictures and will post some more as I make better progress. This evening I finished drilling out all the rivets I could get to in the bathroom and I think the next step is figuring out how to disconnect all the plumbing. But I was sidetracked by a request from the front of the trailer to get the oven going so some cookies could be baked. The possibility of fresh Toll House cookies trumped what I was working on! I opened the valves on each of the two tanks up front and was greeted with a constant hissing sound. I don't think that's good! I turned it back off and several mosquitoes presented a solid case suggesting it was time to go in the house anyway. The gas will be a mystery for tomorrow!
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Old 06-14-2012, 09:44 AM   #9
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As long as my DW doesn't read pgr32e's post about sneaking out the bath with the partition up I'd say he's correct... until the vent stack plumbing needs to be reinforced and the area cleaned inbetween the pocket-door panels. My '73 27' had the black plastic pipe clamps loosen over time dropping the pipe below the height of the inner liners, then kicked sideways to really amplify the living spaces toxicity.
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