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Old 09-05-2008, 02:46 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by cameront120 View Post
If you don't have a local Code, you'd be governed by the latest edition of the National Building Code, which outlines the minimum standards for construction.

Not true here. Each county or city has to adopt which codes they use national or the older ones which aren't use much.. The state requires plumbing and electrical inspections but. but Delta county has no building codes some of the towns do but if you build in the county you can do whatever you want..... like i said SCARY>>.. I seen foundations walls out of 2x6 on a footer with dirt piled up against them...

Didn't know there were codes for trailers,, Who inspects them???
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:56 PM   #16
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the simplest approach to this is to bring an enclosed container of wash water back inside to 'flush' the toilet,

or just catch the sink water before it hits the drains.

a 6 gallon plastic gerrycan shaped jug works fine outside and a kitchen sink pail inside.

and disconnect the fresh water (or turn off the inline valve) to the head.

one could run 2 separate lines and 2 pumps, but the wash water pump should be outside the trailer.

wash water is sometimes nastier and more complicated than crap-tank water.

we've covered this issue in MANY threads on the topic and there was a good piece in asLIFE many quarters ago on the topic.

i see from your other post that u think u are using 'biodegradable' stuff in the wash tank (whatever that is)...

but the organic matter is different in wash water (more acidic, more fats, less digested and so on) even though it is more diluted.

so it would be USEFUL to add a biologic tank additive to the wash side too for fats and proteins....

enzyme or bacteria based is best for this, but wash water should be handled carefully at all times.

if you don't do this the biologic positives of the BLACK TANK will be altered negatively and the odors ENHANCED....

the toilet can be plumbed to using a 'recirculating' design, these systems are growing in popularity, with the hugger crowd.

when boondocking ALL my sink water is captured and used to flush the head, so almost NO fresh is used, it's easy to do this.

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-05-2008, 03:45 PM   #17
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I failed to pick up on your original drawing that you were relying on a shut off valve to isolate the 2 water systems. Code or no code this can not be done just from a Good Sense consideration.

If you end up designing a system that has 2 water sources there has to be an AIR GAP between them. This could be done using the small tank idea mentioned by 2air. You could have a gravity tank sealed and feed by the pump off the gray water. For those time when you have city water you would have to fill the tank via a valve above the tank and clearly separated by an air gap.

Now this is just a design idea and I am sure not practical considering the amount of money and rework required to make it work.
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:06 PM   #18
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OK, I opened a can of worms here.. I was trying to keep it simple and save fresh water... Good thing I asked..... I'm just gonna leave it alone and use fresh water Getting to complicated and I don't want to get sick...

And I don't won't to have other containers to pour down and drag around..


Thanks guys, and gals, for the input...
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:22 PM   #19
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Who Inspects them?

Quote:
Originally Posted by purman View Post
Not true here. Each county or city has to adopt which codes they use national or the older ones which aren't use much.. The state requires plumbing and electrical inspections but. but Delta county has no building codes some of the towns do but if you build in the county you can do whatever you want..... like i said SCARY>>.. I seen foundations walls out of 2x6 on a footer with dirt piled up against them...

Didn't know there were codes for trailers,, Who inspects them???
Yes, there are codes for tailers. I think it is RVIA (RVIA.org | Home

This is frequently on campgrounds list of Rules:
"Vehicles must be self-contained and carry the RV industries approval registry number and manufacture’s date."

On our Airstream, there is a metal tag located near the door that has this certification. I think they are the same people that approve appliances suitable for RV use so that you don't use house appliances in your RV.

NFPA 1192, NEC and ANSI 12V Standards Now Available

The 2008 editions of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 1192 Standard for Recreational Vehicles, the ANSI 12V Standard for Low Voltage Systems in Conversion and Recreational Vehicles and the National Electric Code (NEC), are now available. The new standards will become effective May 1 with enforcement beginning September 1, 2008. Visit the RVIA Store to order.
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:53 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by purman View Post
OK, I opened a can of worms here.. I was trying to keep it simple and save fresh water... Good thing I asked..... I'm just gonna leave it alone and use fresh water Getting to complicated and I don't want to get sick...

And I don't won't to have other containers to pour down and drag around..


Thanks guys, and gals, for the input...
You see , threads here sometimes take on a life of their own . you may quit but the thread keeps going and going... sometimes for years. Never be afraid to mention an idea , even if it doesn't pan out , sometimes they do .
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Old 09-05-2008, 06:50 PM   #21
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Wink This may sound extream...

Now understand this is only me...can't get the DW to follow suit.

When we REALLY need to conserve fresh water.

When I'm on the throne, I shut the water off open 'er up and make a direct deposit, add some water from a two gal jug stored in the shower.
Only problem is when I forget to turn the water back on,or my aim is slightly off
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Old 09-05-2008, 07:12 PM   #22
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The idea is OK, but the execution plan stinks (literally). As Andy and others have pointed out, you absolutely don't want your waste and fresh water systems comingled. If you really want to do this, use a pick-up that floats in the grey tank to avoid the solids and run it to a separate faucet that you can fill a bucket from in the bathroom and use that to flush the toilet. Probably penny wise and pound foolish all in all.
I recently asked a similar question. When I don't have a sewer hookup, my gray tank inevitably fills long before the black tank (perhaps because I'm NOT full of it, thank you). I use a sewer solution to drain tanks, and thought of draining my gray into my black via a hose that went into the black tank sprayer. I had been filling a five gallon bucket from the sewer solution, carrying it in and dumping it down the toilet. The possibility of tripping with a load of nasty water.... ech! Well of course the stray coffee grounds would probably screw up the tank sprayer in a heartbeat. I casually toyed with the idea of getting more hose extensions and running the hose around the back, thru the door and into the bowl. Of course I don't know that the gray tank would create enough pressure to go uphill into the toilet and I would have to put the end of the sewer solution hose down the trap of the toilet and SECURE it because opening the gray water gate then running into the trailer isn't a good idea.

I settled of getting a LID for the pail and only filling it half way. Sometimes our brilliant McGuyverisms sound more like Wiley Cayoteisms when reviewed in the cool light of dawn.

Paula
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