grey water dump valve won't open

[adonh]

My grey water dump valve won't open I can pull the handle out but it does not open the valve. This is on on the 2005 396 XL. Any suggestions

[Bill M.]

sounds like the connection between the valve shaft and the T-handle has failed. find that connection and check it. usually a cotter pin holding it together. also try some veggie oil in the drain to lubricate the valve when you get it back together.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by adonh

My grey water dump valve won't open I can pull the handle out but it does not open the valve. This is on on the 2005 396 XL. Any suggestions

Question: Is the handle connected directly to the valve blade? Or is the T-handle located some distance away and connected by a push-pull cable?

In either case, the handle is apparently no longer connected to the valve blade. If it's the cable, replacement cables are available up to 6 feet long from parts houses like Parts66 or possibly Camping World. But in point of fact, a dump valve push-pull cable is not a whole lot different from a choke or throttle cable from a lawn mower, or a brake cable from a bicycle, so you should be able to get the cable from any lawn mower repair shop or bike shop, and probably cheaper. It's also similar to a throttle cable from a boat with wheel steering and an outboard motor, so a boating supply house should have a cable that will work, too. Any of those places will also have cable lube, which is a worthwhile investment to keep it from happening again.

If the T-handle is directly connected to the valve blade, with no cable, you'll probably be stuck replacing the whole valve.

[adonh]

It is connected directly, see below.

[adonh]

the grey tank is on the right

[adonh]

Although I spent 4 days on the road getting it home I have not done much with the systems except go through their operations when I picked it up on Monday. I addition to the grey dump valve seeming to not work I have another issue that may just be caused by me doing something wrong. After hooking up the city water everything looks fine no leaks and I have water at the outlets inside. But after a while I have a leak coming out just bellow the bin with the pluming and sewer hook ups. Before I hooked up the water the sensors said the grey tank was less than half full. I can't find anything that would be putting water in the grey tank. Mystery.

[adonh]

I took off the Shurflo pressure valve where the water hose hooks up and there was the leak. So I took it out and will replace it. I was able to get the grey water valve to open by just turning the handle and pulling on it so I left it open. I have decided now that water is not somehow getting in the grey tank as I covered in the last post and I think the reading may be sensor issues.

On the grey valve, can I just replace the guts by removing the 2 screws and bolts as shown in the picture.

Thanks

Don

[adonh]

Originally Posted by adonh

On the grey valve, can I just replace the guts by removing the 4 screws and bolts as shown in the picture.

Thanks

Don

The Grey and Black valves are Valterra. This looks like what I need to fix the Grey valve and I could replace the Black valve at the same time as well and have 2 new valves. Those rusty bolts should come loose with a little effort and they are sitting there in the cargo bin so it will be easy to get to. Wht do you think.

Don

[cwf]

Originally Posted by adonh

The Grey and Black valves are Valterra. This looks like what I need to fix the Grey valve and I could replace the Black valve at the same time as well and have 2 new valves. Those rusty bolts should come loose with a little effort and they are sitting there in the cargo bin so it will be easy to get to. Wht do you think.

Don

Don
Get some stuff called "PBblaster" for the rusty parts. If they don't loosen after a soak use a Dremel tool to carefully cut off nuts.

[adonh]

Originally Posted by cwf

Don
Get some stuff called "Bblaster" for the rusty parts. If they don't loosen after a soak use a Dremel tool to carefully cut off nuts.

Yes Blaster is good and 3 came off real easy. The 4th one broke off right at the head after a couple of turns and I was bale to pull it out the other side. The principal of Valterra valves is great, just take out 4 bolts and pull out the old valve and then put on new seals and insert the new valve and put in new bolts and tighten. But the problem is getting the valve seated with the new seals on the pipe connections. That is not easy. There must be a trick to this because I still have a tiny amount seepage after a while. At left it at that after 3 tries for now. I only replace the grey valve.

[cwf]

Great! Glad the PBblaster worked! I had great results using the product.

[polarlyse]

Auto parts stores have a product called Hi-Tac. It's a spray contact adhesive that you spray on the seal and the surface. It's sticky so it is suppose to stick the seal to the surface and hold it while you align the matching parts. If this is the problem you're having just holding the "O" ring seal in place it might be a simple solution.

[cwf]

Another sticky trick is to use Vaseline on surfaces and it won't eat the seal

[adonh]

I had a friend of mine come by and with 2 sets of hands we were able to hold the connection apart just far enough to get the valve to sidle in without disturbing the 2 seals on the valve and fit them correctly on both flanges. But it was not easy. However it is done now and the valve works great and no leaks

[CMSmith]

Can I hijack this thread for a similar issue? I am with another Airstream and their grey valve handle does not seem to be connected to the valve. On my '75 Tradewind I can see the valve and connections in the bumper storage but on his '77 Tradewind there is a cover in the storage bumper that makes it so you cannot see the valve housing and pipes. Is this cover easily removed? Is there a truck to getting to this valve without popping out a ton of belly rivets?

He just bought this trailer and is on his first trip with it.

[Scott J-24]

Originally Posted by Bill M.

sounds like the connection between the valve shaft and the T-handle has failed. find that connection and check it. usually a cotter pin holding it together. also try some veggie oil in the drain to lubricate the valve when you get it back together.

I have sticky black and gray valves. I heard about using veggie oil to lubricate the valves. How much veggie oil should I pour down the head and drain and does it make a difference what type of veggie oil you use?