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Old 05-27-2013, 07:31 PM   #1
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1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie , Washington
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Five trips to the hardware store later

I finally got to the point where I pressurized the water system and, of course, found an issue. The shower valve assembly leaks. I tried rebuilding the stems but I still can't get it to shut off all the way. My guess is the valve seats are corroded and I can't get a proper seal.
Anyway, how does this thing come out? Right now I can't even get the chrome cover off as the hose fitting on the bottom of the valve is corroded in place. I assume I have to wrench it off to start to expose everything. I hope I don't have to take the plastic shroud off. I sure don't want to start pulling things apart without some idea of what I'm getting in to.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:28 PM   #2
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Sorry, the only way to service it is to take the entire plastic shroud off. It is one of the dreaded jobs of Argosy work, as well as some Airstreams.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:20 PM   #3
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Have you tried re-surfacing the valve seats?

Use this tool: Top 10 Plumbing Tools: Faucet Valve Reseating Tool

Your local hardware store should carry it. I've used it successfully on old household faucets. Might be worth a try.

Chris
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:13 PM   #4
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I'll try the reseating tool, definitely worth a try.

Idroba, can you provide tips on how to remove the shroud? It looks to me as though the toilet has to be removed to get the shroud out. If that's the case, a whole world of fun stuff awaits.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:48 PM   #5
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I had a similar issue with my '58 FC. I did not have much luck with reseating tool and new gaskets and seals. Ended up replacing the entire stem. The part number is on the picture below. Found the hot and the cold stems that worked at our local True Value hardware store. And soaking the parts with WD40 makes for easier removal
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:00 AM   #6
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One option is just to live with the leak. If you install a ball valve at the shower head you can turn the water off and on here, and it will always be set at the correct temperature. The valve is about $25. Bruce, with a 16 ft Banbi, posted a link to it about 2-3 weeks ago.

I got one from Amazon last summer. It works great.

Dan
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:07 AM   #7
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The shroud is a formed piece, held in by rivets under the belt line molding and is a diabolical thing to remove. Not sure if the toilet has to come out, but I would not be surprised. I think I would cut a square hole around the valve with a multi tool and put the new faucet on a patch big enough to cover the hole. But then there is a pipe and plumbing issue to deal with, as the copper is all sweat soldered together and the lines run in the shroud above the toilet. When I replaced the toilet with a new one, I had to cut the shroud for room for the lid to open and then cover the pipes with another smaller system that I invented. So, in actuality, I never took the valve itself out and have my original one. But if I did replace it, I would cut and patch rather than disassemble half the bathroom to get at the valve.
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:23 AM   #8
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Here is the link for the shower head positive shutoff valve:

100% Shower Head Shut Off Valve - Solid Brass - Chrome Finish - Amazon.com

I would try this before I started to disassemble the shower valve.

Dan
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:27 PM   #9
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I went out today and purchased a shower head shut off valve, brought it back and installed it. Still have a leak. I think there must be a crack in the housing, evidently where the shower hose attaches.
I'm going to follow idroba's suggestion and cut out the existing valve. I'll pull the copper lines out while I'm at it and install a pex set up. This will have the advantage of getting rid of the "oversized" copper tubing I've had to modify for my sink faucet.
Someday, I'll go camping.
I'll post a follow up when I'm done.
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:44 PM   #10
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Whoa, my shower looks identical to yours, and I was able to replace the shower valve without taking out the toilet or sink. I removed the rivets of the strip above the shower mounting shroud, then all the screws, the board came away from the wall enough to get the old valve out, put in a new one, and used braided stainless steel hose from the valve to the sink area, then connected the pex. The shroud flexed enough to not have to remove any rivets from the lower part. I also had to remove the storage door above the toilet, which is where the SS hoses went to the under sink area.
Good luck.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdodger View Post
Whoa, my shower looks identical to yours, and I was able to replace the shower valve without taking out the toilet or sink. I removed the rivets of the strip above the shower mounting shroud, then all the screws, the board came away from the wall enough to get the old valve out, put in a new one, and used braided stainless steel hose from the valve to the sink area, then connected the pex. The shroud flexed enough to not have to remove any rivets from the lower part. I also had to remove the storage door above the toilet, which is where the SS hoses went to the under sink area.
Good luck.
Well, at first I was po'd because I didn't think of that, then I realized that it wouldn't have worked in my case. When I finally got the valve out it was so corroded I had to get two spanners on it, etc, etc. Great idea though.

I own and have restored a couple of old (1890's) commercial buildings (and two early 1900's buildings) and the challenges of those projects are, in all honesty, quite a bit easier than rehabbing a 70's AS/Argosy. Nothing is intuitive. The first two things I learned were to throw away my level, then toss the square.

More to follow
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DryFly View Post
Nothing is intuitive. The first two things I learned were to throw away my level, then toss the square.
Nothing is symmetrical either. Left side curves are different from right side curves, front curves are different from rear curves, etc, etc... Makes for interesting challenges!

Chris
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:50 PM   #13
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your valve is installed the same as mine.

I have see that tour spout is faced down. Is there a reason for ours ( or all ) not to be faced upwards where the the wand is going to be?
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:58 PM   #14
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Earlier today I just completed the job in question. There were only 2 rivets
Holding the panel in place. The toilet did not have to be removed. I'll take a couple of pics for you this afternoon so you can see what it looks like and post this evening.
Paul
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