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Old 07-09-2011, 01:11 PM   #1
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1986 25' Sovereign
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Correct toilet flange?

I've pulled the Thetford Bravura toilet which was mounted with 2 bolts at 5 and 10 o'clock positions. I'm about to mount the Sealand Traveler 511H low profile ceramic toilet and was wondering if the flange pictured below is a universal one? It looks like the flange will take the 4 bolts that came with the new toilet but the new seal inner diameter looks much larger inside diameter than the one it replaced. Am I still good to go? Rats, can't get my picture to post.
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:20 PM   #2
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OK, the finally opened up.
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AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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Old 07-09-2011, 02:47 PM   #3
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You can do one of two things. Change the black tank flange to the four bolt style from Vintage trailer supply.
Sealand 4-Bolt Floor Flange

Or Dometic offers a mounting kit to convert to a four bolt flange.I bought my commode and flange kit from PPL trailers in Texas. Great people to work with.
SeaLand Traveler for sale at PPL - PPL Motor Homes

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-09-2011, 03:15 PM   #4
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The flange lifts slightly off the floor but will not twist off if threaded or worse, cemented to the black pipe going to the black water tank. I'm not taking a chance of making things worse and costing me big bucks. I will order the adapter that comes with a white ring and just use the ring to prevent the toilet from rocking. It looks like what I have now is a universal adapter without a ring for support.
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AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
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Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:22 AM   #5
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Hi, I am a new owner of a 1967 Caravel and have been doing lots of restoration work!! I have the trailer nearly gutted completely, but the bathroom is holding me up. I have removed the toilet, but cannot seem to get the flange off. This flange is attached tightly to the fiberglass bathroom piece, which I want to keep in safe condition. There is nothing wrong with the fiberglass, I just want to remove the old holding tank as well as see if there is any floor damage under the shower drain. Does anyone know of a way to remove the flange from the fiberglass without messing it up?!? Thanks for your time and help, this site is AWESOME!!
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Old 07-22-2011, 11:18 AM   #6
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I know that on my 68' is was glued to the floor and the black tank. I don't think this was factory but a PO. can you see any sign of glue?
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Old 07-22-2011, 12:20 PM   #7
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Hmm, I can get a crowbar end underneath it around most of it. However, I don't want to try to pry it up in fear that it will crack the fiberglass and cause an even bigger issue. I am going to try unscrewing it and see if that might be the case. There was so much acid powder when I removed the toilet that I didn't think of many things to try. Thanks for the info, I'll give it an even closer look the next time I work on it. There is so much information on this forum it is unreal I can only work on it in spurts since it's located at my fiances house and I work a lot...
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Old 07-22-2011, 12:22 PM   #8
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Some screw on and require a screwdriver and hammer to get it started.
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Old 07-22-2011, 12:25 PM   #9
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Thanks Gary, I will try that first!!
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Old 07-22-2011, 01:04 PM   #10
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The flange on my 68 screwed it. I had to cut a little slot in the outside edge with a dremel tool for the screw driver to get a "bite" on the edge. Then tapped it with a hammer and It finally came loose and unscrewed. The other option is to use a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut the flange but you would destroy the flange and you most likely can reuse it if you are careful unscrewing it. There should be a straight threaded nipple between the bottom of the flange and the top of the black tank. The top of the black tank is threaded as is the flange. But, if some PO has worked on it there is no telling how it is attached.
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:22 PM   #11
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The Sealand Universal adapter with ring came in last week. It requires drilling eight 1/8" holes through the mount already there. It wasn't hard to do so and the new screws went into the mount or underlying floor with ease. It also required a 1/8" bead of silicone before the screws were put in and tightened. The ring fit around the mount and the toilet was then placed into position for bolting. I had a little trouble with the water supply line bolting to the toilet but finally got it squared away.
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'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
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Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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Old 10-15-2011, 12:43 PM   #12
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toilet flange

Craig
have you had any leak issues since you installed your toilet?
I need to go from 4 bolt to 2 and have been told the sealand adapter will leak,and I should buy a 4 bolt toilet.(I already have my new 2 bolt dometic 310 I was hoping to install)
thanks !
mark
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:22 AM   #13
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Anyone know if I can get a flange that has more threads on it to lift the toilet off the floor a little more? I am putting a wood floor in my bathroom and cant seem to find an extended flange. It is going into a 67 safari. The one I have has threads but not long enough. Could I use a threaded to slip piece to go into the black tank and then slip the toilet fittling onto that? I know that there are couplers for the threaded to slip toilet flanges but the ones I have seen make the toilet to hight off the floor. I need to get about another 3/8 to 1/2 inch of thread to do the trick.
thanks
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:05 AM   #14
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I replaced the 1/4" plywood with 3/4" when remodeling the bath in the Argosy. I installed a new toilet flange and had no problems with the additional 1/2" of material on the floor. I think I still have the receipt for the flange I bought. If you have not resolved the problem and need the info send me a PM. I don't think any kind of slip flange will work due to the sloshing in the tank while in motion.
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