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Old 10-15-2011, 02:18 PM   #43
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To take out the rusty bolts, simply buy one or a set of what is called "reverse taps".

To use them, you simply drill a hole in the head of the rusty screw and screw a tap in. Their threads are reversed, so that tightening them unscrews the rusted screw.

Yes, it's a bit of trouble, but look at it this way: 1) they have to come out some day, 2) you really want the toilet you bought (and already have), and 3) OK, so it's a bit of trouble (really, not much) but dragging the new toilet back and getting a refund (assuming the store gives refunds, lots don't!) is a lot more trouble,and you don't learn anything.

By fixing it the right way, your memory of this will be positive, and not that you wimpled out and took a different toilet.
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Old 10-15-2011, 03:55 PM   #44
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Aage
thank you,You are really helping me out here,and motivating me.
I just got 3 of the 4 bolts loose.
It looks like if I can get the last bolt loose,I can just turn the flange 45 degrees and bolt up my toilet.
What I need to know is.how does this flange mount to the tank ? I wish I had a schematic of the tank,floor,flange.
I can drill the head off the last bolt,but I need to know if the flange will just lift out or?,otherwise I could be in trouble.
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Old 10-15-2011, 04:04 PM   #45
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toilet flange

I just got the last bolt loose !
all 4 are out,I can slightly lift the flange,Is this a screw on flange,screwed to the tank ?
I don't want to break the tank......
so far a little pressure wont loosen it.
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:12 PM   #46
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The flange should be male and the fitting below it should be female thread



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Old 10-15-2011, 06:33 PM   #47
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toilet flange

Thanks Darkspeed for posting that photo.

I think I have found a solution to my problem.

I learned the flange is glued in,and to be removed has to be carefully cut out without damaging the tank.

Since 2 of the 4 bolts that bolt the flange to the floor are at 3 and 9 ,I went and bought 2 brass studs and screwed them into the holes at 3 and 9.

It was really that simple.

I hope....( I haven't done a leak test yet)
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:46 PM   #48
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Airline,

WAY TO GO! Congratulations, man, waaay proud of you.
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:51 PM   #49
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Aage

thanks Man !

Now I can cut my Johnsonite Rubber Coin Grip Flooring and get this bathroom Reno buttoned up.
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Old 10-17-2011, 04:16 PM   #50
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We want to install a china toilet on our 2009 27' FB International. While having some other work done on our rig I asked the local AS dealer in Irvine, CA about getting the SeaLand china head installed. He indicated that they had just tried to install that one in the same type of trailer and indicated that it just wouldn't fit unless you moved the wall between the head and the bedroom (that just doesn't sound like a good option to me...). When I asked if he knew of a different model or brand that would fit, he just shrugged and said he didn't know of any that would fit. Has anyone installed a different brand of China toilet in their late model 27' FB International? If so, what specific brand and model did you get and what problems, if any, did you have when you installed it. Thanks for your comments and suggestions.
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:55 PM   #51
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Toilets

When shopping for Toilets online,they will give you all the dimensions.I think the main concern is back wall to toilet.
Thetford,Dometic and Sealand seem to be the 3 main toilet manufacturers.
hope this helps

mark
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:57 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airline View Post
When shopping for Toilets online,they will give you all the dimensions.I think the main concern is back wall to toilet.
Thetford,Dometic and Sealand seem to be the 3 main toilet manufacturers.
hope this helps

mark
Thanks Mark, I will check out those other brands and see if one of them will fit. Maybe someone with a 27' FB has installed one in their rig... that way I would be sure it fits because I don't think you can return a (slightly used) toilet
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:50 AM   #53
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Scott,
I recently installed a Dometic 310 china bowl toilet in my trailer.
It was a tight fit. A couple of things that gave me the extra room needed to install were:
I gained an 1/8" by unbolting the floor flange and rebolting it to the floor. Seems whoever tried to bolt the original toilet in originally at the factory had pushed it toward the wall while installing it. Half of the bolts were screwed into nothing as the flange was too far off center and the bolts were over the floor cut out. I rebolted it, all bolts are now screwed into the plywood floor as it is supposed to be and the new toilet is on solid base. There was enough movement of the tank attached to the flange for the proper fit. I needed to do nothing but apply a little pressure to pull it in the right direction while rebolting it.
Next I found I still needed just a little more room as the back of the molded plastic cover for vacuum breaker the was hitting the wall behind the toilet and it was stopping the toilet from sitting flat over the flange on the floor. That portion of the cover is molded as part of the whole seat assembly. I noticed that the toilet fit perfectly once I removed the seat and cover from the bowl. That's where the Dremmel and a file(rasp) came in handy. I trimmed the corner off the cover where it hit the wall and everything fit like a glove. That trim edge gave me about 3/8" that was needed. It sounds like a lot of work but actually it's not. It only took some thought on how to install it.
It looks great and no one can tell I trimmed part of the cover.
I don't think a service person would want to mess with doing the little extras it took for me to install it as they are usually on a time schedule.
I had no idea that I needed to do any extra steps on my install until the old toilet was out and I tried the new one in its place.
The no return policy made me more determined than ever that this thing was going to fit. I would have even taken the Dremmel to the china portion of the toilet if I need to but that was unnecessary.
Once you buy it, you have nothing to loose anymore, so to me, using the Dremmel on it was not a problem.
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:58 AM   #54
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Hi Scott,
The Thetford "Style II" should fit easily....(not to be confused with the "Style Plus", which will not). The Dometic 210, aka "Traveler Lite" should fit also. That said, the Dometic 310 is my new FAVORITE, (pathetic, isn't it?), and my 11 year quest for the best Airstream-compatible toilet is now over! Moreover, the factory is now installing them (the 310's) in several models, including yours. So my vote is for the Dometic 310, even if you have to correct a mistake caused by slipshod installation by some Neanderthal on the production line, as Bluto had to do.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:32 AM   #55
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Yah! My SeaLand 510 came in today, I could measure for you if it was not a box of shards....

If you order one make them package the bajeasus out of it.. they dont seem to ship well...
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Old 03-05-2014, 09:01 AM   #56
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Since I installed my 310 as in post number 53, I had to replace that toilet, as the internal part for the flap broke. A new free replacement was delivered last year from Dometic and when I looked at the new model I could see that they made some changes to the china portion. It's larger on the backside where it fits against the wall and on the 27'FB trailer it was a problem for me with clearance against the wall.
This time I actually had to cut a pretty big hunk of the china portion off one corner so there would be no interference with the wall behind the toilet and the base of the toilet will set flat on the floor.
It was an easy job to cut the china with a Dremel Saw Max tool with a ceramic cutting blade. Don't mess with one of those small Dremel rotory tools for this job. The Saw Max cut thru it like butter and left a perfect cut.
So if you find yourself in the same situation in the future, this was my way of solving the problem and I'm very pleased with the ending results.
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