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Old 05-05-2008, 10:44 PM   #1
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1968 26' Overlander
Fenton , Missouri
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Unhappy can't get the toilet bolted to the floor

I have a '68 Overlander. When I got it in November, the toilet was not hooked up, or attached to the floor. It is probably the original toilet. I bought new toilet bolts to hook it down, but have found the task impossible to figure out. The area that the toilet fits into (beween the back wall and the tub/shower) is small. The toilet has a back end piece that fits into the back wall. Behind the toilet up high you can get to the water pipes, but the water pipe that goes from the toilet out the back has to fit through a little hole. I should probably just take a picture. Anyway. There is not enought room to lift the toilet over the two screws that are hooked into the floor ( or what I think is called the flange) The rubber ring could be replaced but doesn't look too bad. After taking off the water pipe at the toilet, I managed to wedge the toilet onto the screws, felt down to put on the bolt and the screws were not coming through the holes. They were too short. They worked when I tied it before I started hooking the toilet up. If I found longer ones, I would never ever ever be able to get the toilet on top of the screws without cutting a big hole through the bathroom yellow plastic to give everything more working room.
I was wondering if i am suppose to use certain RV toilet screws, or if the rubber seal it somehow messing with this process.
I am stumped and could use any help.
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Old 05-05-2008, 11:39 PM   #2
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Karen,
I think the idea of a photo is a good one, just so everyone can picture more clearly the problem you're having. Maybe an overall photo, and a close-up of the bolt/flange area.
Dave
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Old 05-06-2008, 06:38 AM   #3
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If the toilet is the one I am thinking it is, you will need two carraige bolts, one goes in each slot in the flange (metal piece where the toilet sits). They will stick up through two holes in the bottom of the toilet, one front, one rear. The front one can be accessed through the hole for the foot valve lever, if there is one. If not, it will be behind a small cover in the front. The rear will require some dexterity. I had to lay on top of the toilet, and reach under the back of it to get to the second bolt.
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Old 05-06-2008, 07:00 AM   #4
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1966 30' Sovereign
1963 22' Safari
orlando , Florida
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i had to cut some of bathroom plastic on top and working down to fit the thedford toilet in.there just wasn't enough room to the back wall.also had to screw 2x4s to the floor to raise the flange and toilet to proper level.the plastic is now consealed behind some other waterproof material.original? the toilet might be.i'll post a photo later.
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:04 AM   #5
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1966 30' Sovereign
1963 22' Safari
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ID:	59942la twoilet! there was floor work done before i bought it.somebody thought it was a good idea to use indoor-outdoor carpet .more carpet around the can.if you are a designer,i'm sure you can create a better color match....but it works.
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:54 AM   #6
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1967 30' Sovereign
Bosque Farms , New Mexico
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Oh, if this is the same problem I've had mounting the toilet in our 67, then I feel your pain. The only way I've managed so far is to crawl in every conceivable position about the floor, push, shove, cuss, grunt, and sweat. After about 45 minutes of this kind of torture, the toilet will suddenly just pop down over the bolts into place.

The only real suggestion I'd make is to pick up a set of somewhat longer bolts at your local big-box home/garden supply. They did help as I was attempting to get the bolts to mate into the holes in the bottom of the toilet.


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Old 07-05-2008, 11:25 PM   #7
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1968 26' Overlander
Fenton , Missouri
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I ended up buying a new toilet. Perfect and very easy to install.
I do now have an open hole behind the toilet that was covered up with the 'vinyl seat cover'. The new toilet is slightly a different shape and the cover doesn't fit on it any longer. Other than hang a picture over the hole, does anyone have any cleaver ideas?
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