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Old 08-06-2015, 10:43 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by nrgtrakr View Post
I think I'm missing something ...

If the freshwater hose was connected to the dump line clean out connection, why didn't the water just go down the dump hose into the sewer?

Also, how did the water enter the trailer? Dump valve(s) open?
They did not have a sewer connection. Even if they did they should not have the valve on the black tank open.

It appears the only way water could cross between the 2 systems is if the vents at connected. that would result in Black water flowing into the Gray tank and then to the shower, then to the floor from the shower. In order for water could ever get to the sinks you would almost have to have a Slow shower drain that would allow pressure to back up and flow to the sinks. As for water in the toilet I would assume it would leak out around the base as the toilet flange is not designed to hold pressure.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:44 AM   #16
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Husband is innocent

SBB said that the black tank WAS NOT FULL when she did go to the dump station, and that they added water to the gray tank to flush their hose.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OH Poop. I know what really happened. I did a STOOPID with the same result. (and now I have to 'fess up)

I respectfully submit that your husband may well have hooked up the water hose correctly, but that your SHOWER wasn't off. You've got the little clicky thing on the head that lets you turn it ALMOST off while you soap up, then you click it back on and rinse right? Well you never notice that if you're boondocking because you probably never turn the water pump ON until you need water.

Then you go into a campground and hook up the white water correctly, but if main valve to the shower isn't totally off, then water drips down from the shower head in a fairly steady stream. I came back ALMOST in time ... and when I stepped into the trailer without the stabilizers down the shower sloshed over and I saw about half a gallon of water start to spill across the floor. Me flying, towels flying down on the floor, trying to figure out why the shower wouldn't drain, realizing the gray tank was full, baling water into the toilet, running outside, hooking up the sewer solution and draining the gray tank.... (fortunately I was a site with full hookups, just had a meeting scheduled, so only hooked up the water and electric before leaving....)

ANYWAY the moral of the story is hookup your water and electric, then make sure the refrigerator goes back to electric, and that every faucet works (to bleed out the air), then that every faucet is turned OFF... then go on your merry way.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:01 AM   #17
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SBB said that the black tank WAS NOT FULL when she did go to the dump station, and that they added water to the gray tank to flush their hose.
That's not the way I read it. I read that the toilet was half full, not that the black tank was half full.

Not saying you're wrong; it's a perfectly plausible explanation if the black tank wasn't full to overflowing as we all assumed, and you offer good advice regardless.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:13 AM   #18
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I think it was Colonel Mustard, in The Black Water Tank, with a Lego Leveling Block...

These threads are why I love this forum so much. When you get with a group of people that enjoy a common interest so much that they will try to solve a riddle like this... Seriously loving this thread! Hope your water damage is minimal.

I don't have a place to hook a supply hose to my black tank, so I am absolutely no help here...

-Red, clueless...
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:56 AM   #19
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They did not have a sewer connection. Even if they did they should not have the valve on the black tank open.

Aha ... no sewer connection, cap on, etc.

Carpenters (and others) have a saying about measure twice, cut once.

At least the world didn't come to an end and that's a good thing.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:01 PM   #20
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That's not the way I read it. I read that the toilet was half full, not that the black tank was half full.

Not saying you're wrong; it's a perfectly plausible explanation if the black tank wasn't full to overflowing as we all assumed, and you offer good advice regardless.
We're both correct - SBB said the toilet was half full in her first post, and said the Black tank wasn't full in the second one.

I didn't consider why her toilet had more water than normal in it, but only why her gray tank overflowed up into and over the shower pan. Water running in the shower did exactly that to me, but come to think about it, if water had been running in the kitchen or bathroom sink, it still would have come up in the shower simply because it's the LOWEST drain that drains into the gray tank.

The toilet? Some little leak not shutting off the flush mechanism completely? Something fell on the flush pedal while the unit was towed? Maybe just that the last person who used it before the trip overfilled it to dissolve a brown streak? A leak in the shutoff would eventually overflow from the bowl.

If her second post correctly said that the black tank wasn't full, then the hose could NOT have been hooked up to the flush valve.

I have personally seen one SOB with a "water fountain" on the roof because the man breaking camp used his tank cleaners without opening the Black tank drain. I'd personally rather have this outcome than the other possibility that the vent pipe would break loose and spew internally.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:10 PM   #21
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I think foiled again has the only logical answer.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:13 PM   #22
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Oh, BTW, open the belly pan - crawl under there and see what you've got, probably oversized rivets though it varies - some have screws. Just dropping one corner will help you to know how much water might still be under there.

If you see wet fiberglass, take it all down and yank out the fiberglass insulation. Replace it with a couple of layers of foam board or Prodex, but plan for future spills, and make sure there's some easy path that will allow water to drain down and away from the subfloor. The belly pan is not water tight (or won't be once you take it down and reinstall it.) I deliberately poked a few very small holes in mine to act as drains (think of a pie safe... use a finishing nail and poke from the inside outward).

When you put the belly pan back on you may want to use some large flat washers between the head of the rivet or screw to spread the strain. Your belly pan is probably galvanized, older ones were made of aluminum and they developed splits around the rivet holes. The washer stopped that.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:48 PM   #23
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Good rule is to turn off the shore water at campground hose spigot when leaving the campground even for a short while.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:54 PM   #24
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In a million years, I would not think to turn spigot off prior to yesterday. We never leave fresh water tank switch off, for any reason, we use it And flip it off. We r on a four weekend working trip, and will be home the 20th to address the belly pan and damage. Thanks for all suggestions and ideas. We moved on up to St.Ingace today, we are in State park and have view of the bridge from the site. Tomorrow we move to Munising, beautiful up here.
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:52 PM   #25
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Everyone is missing the big and really important question: Are you still married and will he ever again be permitted to connect the trailer bits?
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:20 PM   #26
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ouch!

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In a million years, I would not think to turn spigot off prior to yesterday. We never leave fresh water tank switch off, for any reason, we use it And flip it off. We r on a four weekend working trip, and will be home the 20th to address the belly pan and damage. Thanks for all suggestions and ideas. We moved on up to St.Ingace today, we are in State park and have view of the bridge from the site. Tomorrow we move to Munising, beautiful up here.
I may sound preachy - don't mean to - just want to spare you future pain. Go look at the supply pipe for the toilet, it comes through the floor and if water went down there you could have gallons in the belly. Take an hour tomorrow to drop the belly pan (at least a corner - 3 or 4 rivets/screws. If your insulation is dry do the happy dance and close it back up. If it's wet, take the belly pan off even if you can't do anything else. (stow it in the bed of your truck) If you wait two weeks in hot weather you could get black mold. A bad evening could turn into an $8000 floor replacement! Insurance might not pay because you "failed to take reasonable action to mitigate damages" (I have clients who do water damage remediation.)

If your insulation is fiberglass, you can rip that out in 15 to 30 minutes. Have big trash bags ready, and pull a couple up over your arms to avoid getting prickled. If it's foil with bubbles, make a few small slits between every floor joist so it will drain any water that might be held against the plywood.

PS: I generally leave my water spigot open. Hate to come home and get nekkid then turn on the shower and... nothing. But it is a good safe habit. Maybe someone will make a valve that has a remote control, so I can turn it on from the inside, eh?
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:10 AM   #27
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good rule is to turn off the shore water at campground hose spigot when leaving the campground even for a short while.
yep!
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:21 PM   #28
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Getting UNDER an Airstream

To answer your question, how do I get under the Airstream to work on it? Well I'm Certainly not a size six - so there are only two alternatives:
  1. lower the earth (know a guy who imbedded a cast iron tub in his garage floor just to do oil changes)
  2. raise the Airstream
I opt to raise the Airstream SAFELY. Build or buy a ramp, Many people use a 2x8 cut into pieces at a 45 degree angle - three or four pieces each larger than the one below it. Bolt them together with countersunk bolts - and you can adjust the height for other occasions.

Others use the orange or yellow "lego blocks" and build a ramp with them - it'll take about 2 boxes of those to make a steep enough ramp. These are handy for lots of uses and lighter than lumber. I've used mine even under the truck wheels on slick wet grass for traction. The big WalMart stores normally stock the orange ones, or call Tractor Supply and check. If you ever need to make a set of safety chains Tractor Supply is handier than most truck garages.

You COULD also raise it in the FRONT using your electric jack with a couple of blocks of wood under the foot, but make sure you have HEAVY duty chocks behind the wheels so it can't roll backwards while you're under it. Pulling the emergency brake cable and leaving it out for the duration of the job to engage the brakes is NOT a good idea. It'll burn up the wires, etc.

Of course you could go to a garage and have them use a floor jack to raise the Airstream BUT BEWARE, the frame is lightweight. Horror stories abound about careless (witless) people bending the frame or even punching a hole through the floor because they didn't know where to safely place the jack. If yours is single axle you must KNOW where a jack can be used - you'll need new tires some day. With dual axles, ramp one tire up until the other comes off the ground.

If as you're tilting the Airstream you see water running out around the edge of the belly pan... (expletive deleted).
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