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Old 08-26-2010, 01:38 PM   #1
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1973 31' Sovereign
Fort Worth , Texas
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bathtub faucet leaks

How do I get access to the plumbing in my bathtub. It is leaking. Can I take the top off the top panel?

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Don't think the trailer was winterized properly.

Thanks
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:17 PM   #2
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gotta get to it to fix it
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Old 08-26-2010, 03:57 PM   #3
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The way my trailer was built is this: that which is visible was installed last. To remove components, I've always had to start at the beginning.

Gary
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:07 PM   #4
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Are you talking about the actual bathtub leaking, or the fixtures -- I'm confused? If you're taking about the fixtures and such, you have to drill out the all of the rivets on top and within the trim to gain access. Not sure about your '73, but in my '71 I had the pipe between the faucet and the actual showerhead bust due to corrosion and the natural swelling of the copper:

Pipe:


Taking it apart, part1:


Taking it apart, part2:


Back together again:
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:28 PM   #5
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I think it may be (hoping) that it is just the faucet itself. I have some sort of pin taken out. Not sure how i pull the rest out to get to some washers that might be bad.

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Old 08-26-2010, 06:11 PM   #6
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On mine, you can remove the cover, then there's a c-clip that allows you to remove the Moen (original) cartridge, of which the local bigbox store has replacements for.

BTW, I grew up in Ft Worth and lived there until 3 years ago-- what part are you in?
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:16 PM   #7
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I just looked at your photo -- might not be the best or "approved" way, but I took a pair of pliers and pulled and pulled on that metal stem until it came out. You will be surprised at the length of it (it's like 4 or 5 inches long). Take it to the bigbox, by the replacement and slap it in there -- done!
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:21 PM   #8
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Steven
You appear to have a rear bath like mine. You have most of the dis-assembly done. You still need to take off the L on the side of the tub where the telephone hand held show attaches. Then take out the bottom shelf of the medicine cabinet and reach in an move the valve sideways till that short nipple come out of the side of the tub. You may have to cut some lines to get it out.The insert for the valve is available at Lowes. They stock two, Moen and Danco. The valves are excatly the same but the price isn't. Danco makes the valves for Moen. I think the Moen number is either 1200 or 1225 and the Danco Number is MO1 80993 .The difference in price is about 8 bucks and its the same valve.
Now you have the valve in your hand,find a slot on each side.In one of those slots is a U shaped pin that holds the valve in the valve body. You will need a sharp and very pointed awl to begin the upward movement of the pin. Then with needle nose pliers pull the pin,CAUTION SAVE THE PIN and new one DOES NOT come with the new valve and you will need it to hold in the new valve. I greased mine with Vasoline before inserting it in the valve body. Now depending on the size of the tubing going to the valve(mine was soft copper and I change them to 1/2 in ridged) you may be able to get SHarkbite fittings that size and use flexiable hook up tubes like that go to your vanity or comode at home. Thats what I did because its such a terrible place to work.
Another caution is make sure of the tubing sizes.SOFT COPPER which was sometimes used as in my case and Ridged Copper have different OD's I went with all 1/2 in pex and sharkbite fittings. Sharkbite fittings(Lowes sells GATOR BITE) same thing are very expensive but worth every penny when it comes to working where ya cant use a torch to sweat fittings.
GOOD LUCK
PS after replumbing I didn't have 1 leak. That make's the price worth while
Roger
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