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Old 03-19-2009, 10:41 AM   #1
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Question A how to- Custom Shower

As part of the total rebuild I need to fabricate a bathroom with shower enclosure. I'm planning on a curb side bathroom with the shower pan being about 24" x 24" but also lipping up and over the wheel arch. I found this one product which seems like it would be the job with one exception, specifically that it would require a 4" frame under it to clear the wheel arch steel. (I'd use one that is the mirror image of the one shown). The deepest part of the tray would be located under the tallest part of the trailer which should help and I suppose the extra height makes the drain line easy too.

RV Sit-In Step Tubs : Trailer Sit-in Tubs : RV Step Tubs : RV Sit-In tubs : - Icon Technologies Limited

Now I'm looking for ideas or tips on how to frame the whole shower enclosure in. I'd like to use a flexible sheet of something to line the shower walls but for the life of me I can't put my finger on the best way to ensure a decent finish where the curved wall buts up against a straight wall? Is the normal solution to get it as good as possible, maybe use concealing trim, then just silicone it or has anyone welded polyethylene sheets up yet?
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:00 AM   #2
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There is a [white] plastic sheet available at HD that will glue nicely to an existing partition. Can't remember the name of the stuff, but it's about 3/32" thick and about as stiff as 1/8" luan. It has a bubbly pearl surface and seemed to glue fine using silicon (no hate mail please, this is being glued to a partition, not to aluminum! ).

As for fitting it, with about 47 tries, in and out of the Airstream, you will finally get a good fit to the wall.

This panel has lasted for almost ten years in AIRSTREAMGYPSY's Bambi's shower.

Zep
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:02 AM   #3
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truckasaurus,

Airstream used this (or a very similar tub) in the B190's. I have a link below that includes pictures from the B190 Enthusiasts Forums that may help you.



B190 Enthusiasts Forums-viewtopic-Shower Area.....
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:27 AM   #4
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Now that link is very interesting, so the lip on the tub is still visible? I thought it would be more like a residential installation where the durashield- drywall or whatever lips over the tub. That would simplify the installation but I'm a little worried about what happens when the caulking/ silicone fails due to the trailer moving about over time. 47 tries sounds like it would test my composure a little, luckily I have a plan.....
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:59 AM   #5
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Can't remember the name of the stuff, but it's about 3/32" thick and about as stiff as 1/8" luan. It has a bubbly pearl surface
It's called FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Panel). No comment RE: Silly-cone

Shari
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Old 03-19-2009, 02:21 PM   #6
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We have also gutted our bath, well the whole AS really, and we have just started rebuilding the bath. We used the FRP board on the lower wall, we have a plastic endcap, and are just starting to build a shower stall. I will post some pictures as we progress.

You need to use a special cement to glue on the FRP board. It comes in a 1 gallon can.

Annette
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:08 PM   #7
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I have been looking for a similar step tub solution for my 1973 side bath unit. I have looked at the same tub you listed here as well as some others. I would prefer not to have to lift the tub. Has anyone reading this post run across a source of a taller step tub? How about building a custom one?

By the way I have been contemplating using the FRP panels too but another option proven by forum member Boatdoc is to use a waterproof coating called Durabak. Check it out at the following link:

Durabak Company; Truck Bed, Marine, Boat Ship Industrial & Workplace Non-Skid Coatings.

Thanks,

Malcolm
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:09 AM   #8
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Truckasaurus

I am in the process of rebuilding my side bath too. I am covering the walls with white Formica applied with contact cement. First I had to remove the factory flower print vinyl, sand the walls, apply contact cement and oversize Formica and then trim the Formica with a router. It is coming out beautiful. The walls fit into aluminum extrusions that screw to the walls. I found there is enough slop in the fit to accept the wall with one side covered with Formica which is about .050" thick. The wall between the shower and vanity is covered on two sides and I had to make a new wall out of a layer of 7/16" waferboard and a layer of luan plywood glued together with contact cement then covered on both sides with Formica. The result is a total thickness of 3/4" which fits nicely into the aluminum extrusion. The Formica makes a nice surface that is waterproof and comes in a host of colors. It is easy to work with too. I considered FRP but the thickness would have been a problem with those aluminum extrusions.

I also looked for a replacement shower pan but one with the original dimensions does not seem to be available anymore. I am tall so raising the shower to accomodate the currently available pans would not work. I am planning to re-finish the original pan with polyurethane boat paint over epoxy primer. I got it out in one piece but then tripped and fell on it in my shop, cracking the pan. I have now applied a patch to the outside using 1/8" thick ABS sheet molded to fit the curves. Seems strong as new. Next I will fill the crack before painting. If this doesn't work out I will have to fabricate a pan.

Ed
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:25 AM   #9
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ed do you have any pics of the shower you built.
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:37 PM   #10
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I just installed the walls and vanity front today. Looks great! I'll take a picture tomorrow and post it.

Ed
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Old 08-16-2009, 07:27 AM   #11
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Gutsgolf,

OK, here's two pictures taken from opposite directions of what it looks like currently.

Ed
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Old 08-17-2009, 06:29 PM   #12
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obviously a craftsman at work here

ed, that looks really great, the workmanship is terrific. is the plumbing in the vanity pex, if so what size are you using .
thanks
richard
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:58 PM   #13
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Richard,

Thanks for the compliment
The plumbing is the AS original. It is 3/8" ID polyethylene. I am not sure if it is PEX or not but it must be to take the hot water. I am using PEX to modify the shower hookup. I am replacing the original shower valve with a Moen unit. I've got the solid surface counter top almost complete. I received the adhesive today to laminate the edge. I should get that done this weekend and will install a china basin and Moen faucet. The two isle walls are covered with Formica also. Once the bath is put back together then on to the kitchen counter top.

Ed
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Old 08-19-2009, 03:09 PM   #14
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I have looked at the same tub you listed here as well as some others. I would prefer not to have to lift the tub. Has anyone reading this post run across a source of a taller step tub?
These guys have a bunch

Bath Tubs - Step Tubs

Some have up to 23" of step but the one for the Terry/Prowler with a 17" step should be a perfect fit. Taller would make for a more comfortable seat height.
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