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Old 07-09-2016, 12:17 PM   #1
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2014 Lower Shower Door 'Pivot' broke

I went back to 01-28-15 to Shower Door Bottom Seal Failure by cptfish on their 2014 27 footer. Not totally related, but could be.

Returning from our last trip, the shower door would not open. If you lifted the door, it could be rotated out. After looking, a short piece of hard white nylon plastic, with a small screw insert was found on the shower floor. This 1/4" or so white hard nylon plastic fits onto the lower hinged side of the glass door. It gives the door clearance for the shower door bottom aluminum frame and the bottom rubber seal to clear the aluminum frame when closed.

All intended to prevent water from getting past the bottom of the door and into the interior of the trailer when the shower is used.

There are four screws on the interior of the door hinge that hold it to the hinge side frame. I will be removing those screws, the plate and the shower door shortly. I need to look and see what I need to fit into this hinge/pivot area so the door will clear and close.

To open the door, I must lift the shower door UP about 1/4" so the frame of the door and rubber gasket clear. I do the same to close the door, otherwise the rubber gasket at the bottom of the door will catch and pull out if you are not careful, beginning at the lower hinge area.

HAS anyone else had this 'white nylon plastic insert' break? It cannot be more than 5/16" of the exposed pivot insert into the door's frame. The rest that is still in the door will be found shortly.

WHAT was your solution to repair this with what might be at home, or is there a source for this small nylon pivot?

The glass door is heavy and the plastic obviously would bounce while moving and broke. It is smaller than the diameter of a pencil. Not a large part, but its intent was to lift the door to clear the lower frame.
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Old 07-09-2016, 02:10 PM   #2
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The 'three' self tapping metal screws on the inside frame, apparently do... nothing. The door must be glued to the shower masonite frame. I have no clue at this time how the door could be removed, otherwise. Luckily... the glass and frame are solid and not a problem.

The pivot at the bottom of the swinging door, at the hinge was the original question for the repair. The door needed to be raised to clear the bottom aluminum edge of the door frame, so the hard plastic gasket would not be pulled out. A cheap thin piece of plastic following the length of the door was totally trashed when this problem was discovered.

Then the white nylon pivot found broken on the floor of the shower.

The FIX. 'Rayrigging' by digging through odds and ends hardware a solution was found.

Nylon. About 1/4" thick. About 3/8" round diameter nylon. A used Nylon Nail On Glide that you put onto the base of a leg of a chair so it does not scratch your floor surface when scooting the chair.

It had a 3/8" sharp 'nail' that you would hammer it into the wood for a secure fit.

I cut off most of this 'nail' at an angle with dykes (wire cutter to some). Lifted the glass door up, slid this underneath and let the door down onto the glide and the centered nail.

I might have been able to have left more of the 'nail' for a better, secure fit... but only a 1/8" more may have cleared to get this round nylon glider to slide under the door frame clear, and letting the weight of the door secure this glider.

Other glider diameters may work just fine. Too high and water can get out from under the door frame.

Nail On Glider
Patins a Clouer
Deslizadores Clavadas

For those who have this problem when traveling outside the USA, the above will work for South, Central and North America.
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Eklund View Post
Returning from our last trip, the shower door would not open. If you lifted the door, it could be rotated out. After looking, a short piece of hard white nylon plastic, with a small screw insert was found on the shower floor. This 1/4" or so white hard nylon plastic fits onto the lower hinged side of the glass door. It gives the door clearance for the shower door bottom aluminum frame and the bottom rubber seal to clear the aluminum frame when closed.
That nylon piece goes in the top of the hinge. The screw broke off in the frame. You need to remove the remaining piece of broken screw in the frame and replace with a new screw.

Bruce
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Old 07-10-2016, 10:21 AM   #4
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Nylon Glider works... lets see for how long.

Thanks Bruce for the input.

The short oval piece I found had a very small screw in it. Without seeing how it would have fit into the scheme of clearing the lower frame, I cannot comment much more. This long nylon strip seems to be where the door slides around for a low friction surface to aluminum frame. I see no possible screw placement or way to attach anything at the top. Our showers may be different in design, since mine is the cheaper trailer... ours got the 'special' what was available shower.

The nylon glider supports the door perfectly. The door opens and closes easier than before the part broke, or was breaking at the point we used the shower for the first time.

I will report on how this works out after the wild and woolly Wyoming Off the Grid for two weeks.

This white nylon strip seems to run the entire hinge length of the door. It appears to be fixed and I could not make it move by prodding. I wanted to remove the door, but the three self threading metal screws do not seem to be attached to anything. (Those of you who have the same trailer as I might want to prod inside this hollow hinge area. I could not detect anything for the metal screw to attach.) Removing the three screws, nothing became loose and I replaced them.

Examining the door hinge attached to the formica wall, it appears to be friction and cement to permanently attaching it all. Only someone who had to replace the door, glass and seen it removed might be able to clue me in how all this works.

Right now, my cost was ZERO. It works very well, if not better than what was originally keeping the lower door frame high enough to clear when opening and closing.

It may seem very simple minded, but without this 'fix', you have to lift the door to open and lift the door to close. Now ours works fine.

If it does not work, I will be the first to bring this up and post why and any other solution that came to mind.

It now does work, and why make it a bigger issue? Although I am very curious how the original system was suppose to support this heavy glass door and frame in the first place.
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Old 07-10-2016, 12:13 PM   #5
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There's a thread somewhere about these doors from about a yer ago. I had the same problem, found a nylon bushing that would work at ACE Hardware. but it didn't last long. Finally sucked it up and bought a new door during a visit to JC - and it wasn't cheap either. (maybe $270 or so) When I installed the new door, I used a suggestion from this forum to secure a piece of 1/2" PEX with adhesive to the threshold so the door will have something to rest on when it is closed. I believe the glass door is a residential door and is not engineered to be bouncing up and down continuously. Anyway, I have about 3000 miles with this mod and have had no troubles. During the installation I did have to remove the lower seal and plane opposite sides of the PEX just a tad so the door would close perfectly. It has never leaked and the door now rests on the PEX preventing the damage to the hinge assy. I really want to thank the poster who offered this suggestion. It is an excellent solution. An even better solution would be for the AS engineers to come up with a better door. Right?
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Old 07-10-2016, 12:49 PM   #6
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Ray,

I remember years ago the problem with shower doors was they leaked at the bottom. We had that problem and it was fixed early in the warranty period. There is a flexible piece of plastic running along the bottom of the door. It often gets trapped on the wrong side of the door, but has sealed well since the fix. I can't remember what the fix was because it was too long ago. I think the 2008 doors on our Safari must be a different design than the more recent doors.

Since you have two models and one is an '06, have you compared how each is engineered?

Glad to see you fixed your issue with stuff you had. That's why I don't throw away much stuff because I know someday (maybe 300 years away) I will need it.

Gene
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:21 AM   #7
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Ray, it was a year ago that I replaced my door so I don't remember the details but when I was at your stage of trying to keep the door from dragging on the threshold, I too, tried to understand how that hinge worked. I was able to pull out that nylon strip that runs the entire length of the door but had to bend it across the ceiling. If I remember correctly, that is what the door hinged on. It was hard to reinsert but I got it. It did nothing for trying to fix the sag.

The nylon bushing that I got at ACE to put at the bottom of the hinge to raise the door worked great while the trailer was parked and for the first trip if I remember correctly but then it kept falling out and I'd find it on the shower floor. I tried to use a clear adhesive to keep it in place and that didn't work either.

Those three screws that seem to do nothing, you are on the right track thinking that that would hold the door to the frame but there is a ton of waterproof adhesive holding it together. If you pry hard enough, you can separate the pieces but you will damage the aluminum beyond repair. Hence, a whole new door for me.

If you get to the point where you do need to replace the door, it is was a bigger challenge than I expected, and I'm a retired contractor. AS used a ton of waterproof adhesive to seal and secure the entire assembly.

If I had to do it again, I'd go with a different, lighter door, possibly looking at what other RV manufacturers are using. Maybe an accordion door? The glass door looks really nice but it can be problematic.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:03 PM   #8
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Sometimes cheaper options can be... better options

I came up with a remedy to work using the 'Nail on Glider' by clipping the nail down about 50% which is intended to hold the glider onto the bottom of a chair leg. I found two that were removed from a dining room set of chairs that were used and replaced the hard nylon with the adhesive pads to slide over our wood floor.

The weight of the glass shower door should keep the nail secure at the bottom pivot inserted into the nylon hinge. (Lift the glass door UP, angle the nail to align with the nylon door hinge and let the weight of the glass secure the nail and nylon pad for the pivot.)

I might add something to prevent the TOP of the glass door to bounce UP too far. This could solve any way the new Rayrigged nylon pivot will be permanent.

The trailer has been sitting since June in the garage as I am swapping out wood screws and screws that hold the plastic drawers secure (ho ho ho... on that happening) and anything else that is loose fitting. There is also some trim covering corners of the sink/stool area that I need to figure out how to tighten them up. Appears to be some fine trim nails that hold no better than some spit. But I will not go there until I get that worked out.

The two weeks traveling the back roads of Wyoming next month will be a sure test of my... 'upgraded hardware'. I will be watching the shower door very close. At the replacement cost of $270... I WILL figure this one out.

Some drawers next to the rear bed were found on the floor after our first outing last year. Used a child proof locking mechanism from Lowes to prevent the top one from falling out a second time.

The sliding doors in the bathroom bounce out regularly. Put a 1/4" square wood trim to fit into the bottom slide to prevent the drawers from sliding, but now need to keep them from bouncing OUT of the bottom slide, onto the floor.

So from shower door pivot, to the poor wood screws to hold sections of the interior together, to the bathroom and cabinet drawers ending up on the floor... a little it learned each time, each trip.

Our 2006 was shopped out from eight years of trial and... discovery. This 2014 is no different. Even wood screws holding the same parts in different sections of the trailer can vary 50% in size!

So... by keeping this buried in Shower Door Pivot... we all can discover little tricks to keep our Home on Wheels rolling and maintaining integrity at the same time. We become experts by having to find a fix for simple, but unknown fixes to basic, minor issues.

Thank you for the other options. If anyone can spend 10cents to fix the shower door weak points... we all gain.
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Old 07-12-2016, 03:14 PM   #9
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We had the bedroom drawers fly out occasionally. It has happened to other drawers as well. I recall there is something at the back of the drawer to keep it closed. It wears pretty fast (i.e., it is junk). They sell them in RV stores for much more than they are worth. I had to buy one on the road in Astoria, Ore. Since I ordered some online at half the price, the drawers have stayed in just because now I have the spare parts. I also keep it from raining by wearing a raincoat.

Another solution is the bungie cord in front of things that open or move. After I put a TV in the bedroom, I screwed hooks above and below it into the wood wall next to the shower. I attached bungies to keep the TV from moving while we drive. Something like that can be devised elsewhere for drawers, but the hooks just don't look right when the bungie are removed. With bungies it looks like a trailer park trash solution.

I hope everything stays in one piece and one place while you bounce through Wyoming.

Gene
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:26 PM   #10
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Quick fix for sagging shower door... Plastic wall anchorClick image for larger version

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Old 09-07-2016, 10:03 AM   #11
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Ray and/or Krusty Buns -

Would it be possible to update us on your success on keeping your shower door (MacGyver-Parts) in place while traveling?

We have the same issue and I need to address in a more terminate way ASAP as we will be hitting the road again in a couple weeks. Right now I just have a very short nut and bolt stuck in there but it does not stay in place while traveling.

Ray's of the nylon chair glide seems good as it have the shortened nail part going up the door tube. Just wanted to touch base and make sure its working before I head out and buy a chair glide or hollow wall anchor

Thats

Doug
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:12 AM   #12
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Krusty Bun

Am I following your post properly that you secured the hollow wall anchor with a screw that is running vertical up into the door channel? I have created a little mock-up using your image to illustrate my question.
Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on this topic

Cheers
Doug
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:16 PM   #13
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This is a long-standing and unaddressed problem. In essence, the shower door is inadequately suspended by a couple of short, pot-metal screws. Eventually, after the trailer bounces around enough, they'll break. I finally gave up on "work-around" solutions and bought a Sterling shower door from Lowe's that had two well constructed pivots as part of its construction. Problem solved. I am waiting for failure in my Classic, as it has the same cheap set-up as my '12 28' Intl CCD. I know Airstream is aware of this as I mentioned it to some of the techs in the Service Center in JC. Just an inadequate set-up. You'll know yours has failed when the door drops down into the threshold and you have to lift the door up to either get in or out of your shower.
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:40 PM   #14
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Articfox,
My solution was temporary. I will try the nail/ screw suggestion this fall. Also, I wedged some 1/4"" pex tubing (std refrig water line) in the bottom door gap for traveling only (remove when stationary)
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