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Old 06-04-2013, 09:33 AM   #43
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Kelvin
When you go in to the p trap area do you remove the heater register from the flex duct? I started to look at mine last week before I took off on a trip and didn't want to get in to it too deep. AND it didn't leak this last week! I'm going to look at it before I venture out later this month. Thanks for posting the pics.

Mike
Yes, I removed the two outer vent screws and pulled out the vent. The ducting on mine is screw down for the top of the vent flange. Then I pushed the ducting back in the hole and pushed it into the interior space. I can put my arm into the hole quite far but it just pushed it up and to the trailer wall out of the way of the P trap. Wear some cloth gloved to tight the P trap. I notice on the metal threads of the shower there seemed to be some sealing material but it wasn't leaking there. Getting the P trap flange off was at first difficult. The flange nut has two grip extensions opposite of each other and get the P trap flange to move I push on one flange extension to start it moving then I could grap the whole nut and turn it by had. When it drops down off the shower drain careful you don't loose the washer. Remove the washer and clean any debris off it. I bet a little silicon wouldn't hurt on the washer to lubricate it. When screwing everything back together you have to place the washer on the P trap flange and then pull up the nut over the flange them pull up the P trap to the shower drain and by feel start the threads. Be careful not to put in on crooked to strip the the treads. As you tighten the P trap thread then jiggle the P trap to get the washer to center and hand tighten. Then go to the show and spray around the drain. If it doesn't leak then plug the drain and fill up the shower pan like a bath tub then drain it. If it doesn't leak you are good to go.

Kelvin
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:38 AM   #44
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You have provided a great roadmap for tearing it down and fixing it if that is the issue. I would like to replace the glass door completely however. It is framed in gold metal and I want chrome or a brushed nickel look. Any thoughts on where and how one would acquire an entirely new door assembly?
I bet any company that installs residential glass showers could help you. You'd want a door that is light weight although the AS door was heavier than expected. The door is easy to remove, you just need a phillips screwdriver and a razor blade to cut the caulk seal from the C channels then it comes out. You could take the door, and C channels down to one of those stores and have them make you up the shower door. Take the threshold too. Then you could bring the new pieces home and seal the voids between the enclosure and interior wood framing and install the door.

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Old 06-04-2013, 09:42 AM   #45
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Is the factory door not glass? Shows you how clueless I am.
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:00 PM   #46
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I think its glass so its probably the same as a residential unit. I don't think AS thinks much about saving weigh on Classics. The cabinetry and the Corian counter tops are heavy.

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Old 07-01-2013, 05:20 AM   #47
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Well, my shower drain is leaking again. We took a couple of showers on this weekend trip and I pulled the heater vent from the bedroom cabinet wall to gain access to the P trap and it was leaking a little bit from around the P trap to show drain connection. The shower drain connection is tight.

I'm going to disconnect the P trap from the show drain and try a little silicon on the washer and flange area to try to seal it, then screw it back up finger tight and let it set overnight.

I wish I could take off the bedroom wall panel. I would make things a lot easier to get at.

Kelvin
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:31 AM   #48
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Smile

My leak was at the top of the wood below the shower door. The vinyl strip that contacts the bottom of the shower was barely touching the door. I pulled off the door at the C channel, pulled off the bottom piece that holds the vinyl seal and put butyl tape on the bottom below the bottom piece. I then cut off about 1/8" of the door hinge to allow the door to drop down further to contact the seal. I had previously reported that I had installed a piece of aluminum drip rail on the bottom of the door to divert water away from running down to the seal. I found that water was running along the drip rail and into the hinge area and out under the door. I then built a caulk dam at the end of the drip rail to stop the end run off. On my last test, I had no water coming out under the door. Hope that is the last of that project.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:34 AM   #49
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The way I fixed this problem was that I used a special tool that reaches down in the shower drain, locks on that cross bar, and then you can screw it out from inside the shower stall. You will still want a helper reaching in through that vent hole to keep the tailpiece from spinning.

I cleaned everything up really well and then applied a bead of silicone to the flange of the drain and screwed it back in snug, but not so tight that all the silicone would be squeezed out.
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:36 AM   #50
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Can you post a photo of that tool and where you got it?

I was hoping to be able to take out the shower drain to put plumbers putty on the shower drain floor flange. I don't think its leaking so I may not try it but if I have that tool I could do it in the future. Do you have your helper hold the nut with adjustable pliers, poked through the vent hole?

Kelvin
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:40 PM   #51
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I think my shower drain leak is finally fixed. I put a little clear caulk on the rubber gasket in the P trap connector. Tried out the shower on this weekend trip and checking it through the vent hole it remains dry.

Kelvin
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