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Old 07-15-2010, 01:05 PM   #1
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greatlakes's Avatar
2004 25' Safari
N/A , Michigan/Florida
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 60
Winterizing '04 25' Safari Water System

We just completed a 7600-mile/54-day trip from FL to MI via AL-MS-AR-MO-OK-TX-NM-AZ-CO-NM-CO, etc, etc, etc in our 2010 Ford Expedition/2004 25’ Safari combo. This was our first “big” trip and it went flawlessly beyond belief. What a rig!

We plan to take it out for the month of Sept and head west and upon returning to MI store it for a couple of months before heading down to FL. Winters may/may not come early up here in northern Michigan and I am thinking of winterizing the water system for those two months or so.

Although blowing the plumbing with air pressure is no problem, we do it every year to our cabin, filling the lines with RV antifreeze would be a good thing to do.


How can I get to the pump to adapt its inlet to an antifreeze container? The best I can tell it is under the sink floor (?), but where is the access?

Other related:

Although it may be normal, the pump sort of low-level growls as it cycles, even with a full fresh water tank. This is the original pump, but I cannot tell what make it is until I get to it. Is this growl expected, or may I be looking at some bearing or impeller problem? It works fine, just noisy.

BTW, I ran the pump to supplement water pressure at some campgrounds that had low water pressure. However, the growling was there from the beginning.

Any input will be most appreciated. Thank you in advance.


2004 25' Safari
2010 4x4 Ford EB Expedition
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Old 07-15-2010, 01:41 PM   #2
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1991 34' Excella
Princeton , New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,323
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You are going to have to get to the pump to winterize. Start digging.

As for the pump noise that is had to say from a distance.

It is a good idea to close off the hot water heater and drain it before blowing out the system. Leave the heater closed off when pumping in the anti freeze, the tank will still have about a quart in it but the tank is curved so not a problem.

The reason i say blow it down first is the length of piping from the city connection to the rest of the system would still have water in it if you don't.

In general you need a night, day and a second night of freezing before you are in trouble from freezing.

2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles

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Old 07-15-2010, 01:56 PM   #3
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2005 28' International CCD
Willoughby , Ohio
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 543
You can buy a relatively inexpensive valve at most RV suppliers that will allow you to run anti-freeze from the bottle, through the pump and then throughout your water lines. You disconnect the incoming water line to the pump and place the valve between the line and the pump.

It is recommended that you open your low-point drains first and then close them when they stop dripping. Then run the anti-freeze through each cold and hot water pipe until the pink stuff comes out of the faucet/toilet/sprayer/shower.

Make SURE you bypass the water heater before you begin pumping anti-freeze (see the owner's manual) or you'll use about 9 gallons of anti-freeze. By-passing reduces that to a little more than two gallons.

As far as pump noise, there are several threads here on how to reduce it. I have mounted my pump on a foam mouse pad and replaced the water lines nearest the pump with flexible tubing instead of the rigid stuff that the factory used. These have helped, but have not completely silenced the noise. It seems to come from the junction at the fresh water tank now and not the pump itself.

Best of luck and be sure to post again if you have other questions!
Steve & Susan
WBCCI# 03876
AIR# 6511
2005 28' CCD, 2011 Sierra 5.3L, Equal-I-Zer
Empty Nesters - spending our money on OURSELVES for a change!
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