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Old 05-25-2010, 08:15 PM   #15
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I added the electric conversion and still use 30a sites with no problem. Haven't had an occasion where I ran out of hot water either.......
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:26 PM   #16
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I added the electric conversion and still use 30a sites with no problem. Haven't had an occasion where I ran out of hot water either.......
The issue is if you start using additional heavy power using appliances or several smaller users. For example if the water heater and AC are pulling power at the same time you are likely to flip a breaker.
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:24 PM   #17
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I have an electric only hot water heater that looks just like the one in my house but much smaller. We have never had an issue with not having enough electricity and popping breakers. We use the air, microwave, etc but I did run a dedicated line to the hot water heater.

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Old 05-25-2010, 10:35 PM   #18
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So long as the campground 30a voltage is good, I always run my 13.5 AC/Heat Pump and the electric water heater at the same time with no problem. I just check my plug-in voltmeter. If the voltage is well up in the green with the AC on, I turn the electric water heater on. I almost never need to use the propane side of my water heater. You can not do this with a 15.0 AC/Heat Pump, it pulls too much current.

I have an auto transformer that I chain to the power post if the campground voltage is marginal. In that case, I usually run only the AC/Heat Pump so as not to rob too much power from other sites. I usually find just a few times in the summer season when I am in a campground where the power is that marginal.
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:38 PM   #19
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Can you describe the autotransformer? I'm assuming you use it to bump the voltage up? So then, I'm guessing it has a means of varying the voltage it puts out...
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:34 PM   #20
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Can you describe the autotransformer? I'm assuming you use it to bump the voltage up? So then, I'm guessing it has a means of varying the voltage it puts out...
The autotransformer plugs in between the power pedestal and the cord to the trailer. It senses for low voltage and boosts the voltage only if it is low. The boost in voltage comes at the expense of pulling more current, so I have to be careful and not use more than the AC/Heat Pump when it is plugged in in order not to blow the breaker on the power pedestal. The increased voltage makes the AC work a lot better and protects the AC compressor.

These autotransformers are expensive, about $300, but I found mine at a flea market for $100.
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:07 AM   #21
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Interesting. Is there a make/model on it? It sounds like more than just a transformer, if it senses and adjusts by itself.

Do you happen to have a photo handy?
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Old 05-26-2010, 06:50 AM   #22
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Interesting. Is there a make/model on it? It sounds like more than just a transformer, if it senses and adjusts by itself.

Do you happen to have a photo handy?
50 Amp Autoformer - Item - Camping World
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:01 AM   #23
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I use electric

I have used a 15 gal. Kenmore electric water heater and Carrier 13.5 A/C in a 69 Caravel, a 66 Caravel for years. Never had a problem. Fast heat up and lots of hot water. My current Flying Cloud had been converter several years ago to a 15 gal. electric water heater and a 13.5 Dometic. No problems...yet?
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:01 AM   #24
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Interesting. Is there a make/model on it? It sounds like more than just a transformer, if it senses and adjusts by itself.

Do you happen to have a photo handy?
Mine is at the storage yard, so I don't have the info handy.

I have a 30a model of the same make as overlander63 posted a link to. Quite a bit smaller, but looks the same. Mine is quite heavy, so a 50a model would be a real back breaker.

I'm often tempted to wire mine in permanently.
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Old 05-26-2010, 08:48 AM   #25
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Flipped my breaker

I tried to run both the AC and WH on electric the other day (AC on low) and flipped one of my breakers. I assume they are on the same circuit so that might be the issue.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:27 AM   #26
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I tried to run both the AC and WH on electric the other day (AC on low) and flipped one of my breakers. I assume they are on the same circuit so that might be the issue.
They should be on different breakers unless this was a late addition and someone put the WH on the AC breaker.

More likely, the AC breaker popped due to the starting current of the AC. That is the most critical time. Given good input voltage, there is actually less chance of popping a breaker in the hottest summer days because the AC runs continuously and there are fewer peak demands.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:38 AM   #27
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They should be on different breakers unless this was a late addition and someone put the WH on the AC breaker.
The AC had been running for some time when it happened. Both the AC and WH are late additions. I added the WH earlier this year and replaced the AC over the winter so I guess the someone would be me. One of the projects I have in mind is reworking the breaker box, but since I spend so much of the time off as opposed on grid, it really isn't a priority project.
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Old 05-26-2010, 10:26 AM   #28
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The AC had been running for some time when it happened.
This can happen. Circuit breakers dissipate a certain amount of heat. The heat can build up over time and makethe breaker pop.
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