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Old 06-28-2015, 09:42 AM   #1
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1993 34' Excella
Abiquiu , New Mexico
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Where is the reset button for the HW Heater? Help!!

My 93 34' Excella 1000 Atwood automatic pilot 6 gallon Hot Water Heater stopped working. I think because it overheated or the wind blew it out. The toggle switch in the bathroom is completely off. in the manual it says to push the red reset button on the back of the hot water heater. I can't find the access to the back of the hot water heater???? Does does anyone know where that is????

Melodie
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Old 06-28-2015, 11:10 AM   #2
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There is no access to the back of the heater as there is nothing there execpt the hot and cold plumbing fittings.

I would first check the 12 fuse on the heater control board if the light in the bathroom is not lighting when you attempt to light the heater.

If the fuse is good have someone check the 2 limit switches with a meter. If the water is cold both limit switches should be made and show continuity. Under that condition the red light should light and the heater fire in 3 to 5 seconds.
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:00 PM   #3
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Thank you Howie. After looking up the Atwood Manual on line we figured out it was the Thermal Cut-off that had burned out. So no hot water until I can get to an RV Store and get. Fortunately It's so hot a cold shower was refreshing.

Melodie
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Old 06-29-2015, 02:29 PM   #4
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I am currently having the same problem. Could you please post photos of what you are talking about, as I am having a problem identifying the parts you describe.

Thanks!
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Old 06-29-2015, 02:39 PM   #5
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No pictures here but what is a very common problem is one of the limit switches fails. Looking at the face of the heater you should see a black cardboard cover about 3 by 4 in. Under that cover are 2 thermo switches a fixed to the metal of the heater and wired in series. Both switches have to be closed for the heater to light. If you remove the wires and test while the water is cold both switches should show continuity. If either is open replace as a set because if you attempt to replace one you may have the wrong one.
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Old 06-30-2015, 10:41 AM   #6
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1993 34' Excella
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Hi Phoenix!,
We went to the RV Supply Store and bought a packet that includes the Thermal cut-off a Thermostat and an ECE thingie all in one packet as well as anew Black rectangular gasket sticker thing. We replaced all of these items and it works fine.
Go the the Atwood website and look up the manual, PDF, for the water heater and it will show what I'm talking about. I wish I could be more technical. Sorry.
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Old 06-30-2015, 03:37 PM   #7
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Yes! the thermal limit and cut-off switches are available at RV suppliers. I think I paid about $28 for both in the kit. They are (were) held in place with a plastic spring clip that keeps the sensor against the wall of the tank. Be careful removing them...not sure the kit has has new clips.
Don't like to suggest it, but if you are watchful, in a pinch you can jumper the thermal cut out but be ready to shut it off when the water is just hot. My thermal cutout failed while the thermostat sensor was still good. You can test for that with a multimeter or light-probe type tester. The terminals should conduct when the tank is cold. If they are open then the thermostat sensor is bad also. Replace them both regardless.
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:08 AM   #8
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Re: Atwood Water Heater () Replacement Parts

My thanks to those who posted the video link and troubleshooting tips.

I checked the ECO and thermostat with an Ohmmeter, and both had continuity. Then, I tested the TCO (Thermal Cut-Off; a.k.a., "thermal fuse"); and it was "open" (i.e., the TCO was defective).

After a little thought, I decided to replace all of these parts, for this reason: While the TCO may have failed due to 10 years of road vibration and weather exposure, it very possibly could have activated due to exposure to extreme heat, as designed. If it failed due to the latter condition, the ECO and Thermostat could have caused the overtemperature condition; and thus, they could be defective, too.

After replacing these parts, the water heater fired up and operated normally.

For future reference, the links below are the ones that I used to determine which replacement parts were needed:
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:59 PM   #9
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Water heater problems have returned...

Red light next to ON/OFF switch remains illuminated, which indicates "error/failed to ignite". Also, ignitor emits no clicking sounds indicating attempt to start.

ECO, thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse all show "continuity" when tested with an ohmmeter, indicating that they are OK.

Just guessing, but it seems like the defective part is most likely the "ignitor board".

Has anyone replace this printed circuit board?

Any troubleshooting tips to confirm that this is the defective part?
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:55 PM   #10
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The erratic behavior could be the board, but first take off each spade connector on the board and clean the contacts and replace them.
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Old 11-20-2015, 08:51 PM   #11
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Follow-up status:

Water heater started today, with no changes to system.

It appears that igniter printed circuit board malfunctioned due to moisture from heavy rain and 100% humidity for previous 24 hour period.

Overnight, rain stopped, weather cleared and humidity dropped from 100 to 50%.
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Old 11-21-2015, 08:02 AM   #12
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Would probably be a good idea to get and use some electronic contact cleaner for both the male and female spade connectors on the water heater control circuitry. Keep in mind that the refrigerator, furnace and stove top all have these same connectors was well.
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