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Old 11-12-2013, 02:36 PM   #1
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1966 30' Sovereign
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WH Pilot Light Not Staying Lit

The pilot light will not stay light on my 66' Sovereign. It will light when on "pilot" (and will hold it on "pilot" for 30sec), but the flame will die when the switch is let go and moves to the "on" position.

I have attempted to do research on this issue, but have not found anything that I have been able to follow as I am new to airstream trailers.

I know it may be the thermo couple, but do not know where to get a new one and how to replace it. Any help is appreciated. I live out of the trailer and no hot water is definitely a pain.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:00 PM   #2
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Which pilot light? Oven, water heater, furnace?

If there's a thermocouple try holding the lighter in the pilot light for a minute or two to thoroughly warm the device.

If it's more than one pilot light - you may have some water in your propane lines - it happens over time. If you hear gurgling that's the ticket. Turn everryting off, drain the line and try again.

Replace the thermocouple if it's just one appliance.

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Old 11-12-2013, 04:47 PM   #3
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Yeah, sounds like the thermocouple. It can be checked but you need a meter that measures microjewels. Just as easy to put in a new one, they don't cost very much.

Which flame dies? the pilot or the main burner? You could also try a propane torch under the thermocouple to see if that will fool the thermocouple into turning on the main burner. Once the main burner ignites it should stay lit. If the pilot dies after the main burner turns off it is another reason to suspect a bad thermocouple, but at least you could get a little heat.

The way the thermocouple works is it sends a tiny electrical current to a solenoid that opens the burner valve. That is a possible trouble spot too. It is located in the body of the unit right under the thermocouple line. It is also a fairly cheap part to replace. You might want to do them both.

To replace the thermocouple look for a small diameter copper line. Simply unscrew it and take it to your nearest friendly RV store. They are pretty standard.

The other possible easy fix is dirt in the pilot or main burner orifice. Blow it out don't poke it out.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:02 PM   #4
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Thought I'd add different description.. Thermocouple is 2" long brass-colored rod about the size of a Q-Tip that is at end of thick flexible copper wire and tip should sit in flame of pilot light. Other end screws into gas valve near controller of water heater. If it goes bad (end usually starts to crumble and split..) it won't send electrical signal to other end to keep gas flowing to pilot light..

There are articles and videos showing how to replace the thermocouple or test it, including one here: How to Replace an RV Water Heater Thermocouple | Trails.com Key advice is not to over-tighten the new one, or it will not work...
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:05 PM   #5
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Most hardware stores carry thermocouples. There is nothing RV specific about them. Just get something long enough, but not too long.
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:21 PM   #6
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Sometimes the end of these get a build up of a little dirt and the pressure will not remain after holding the pilot button down. Try taking a small paintbrush and cleaning all around that area lightly. That is what fixed mine and I've never had an issue since.
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:28 PM   #7
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I know this is a late reply, but I really appreciate all the feedback.

I finally replaced the thermocouple today, but the pilot light still will not stay lit. And this is for the water heater. Any other suggestions to help troubleshoot this??
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:10 PM   #8
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Try blowing out the burner tube and surrounding parts with compressed air. Crud can build up and keep things from working right.

John
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:59 PM   #9
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If this is the original water heater, replace it, pointe finale. You don't want to mess with the danger they can present.

If it isn't, get a can of compressed air, and shoot it into the large opening behind the thermocouple and pilot. Be care not to get in front of the exhaust in the upper left corner, since you will likely get some pale grey dust out of it when you shoot it the air in. Spiders love to make homes in there, it's said they like the smell of gas.

Good luck!
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:51 PM   #10
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If the thermocouple does not do it and there is a reasonable size flame when you are holding down the pilot light button, I would think about replacing the whole thing. The next most likely item to fail would be the main gas valve that is not responding to the thermocouple signal. The gas valve cost almost as much as the whole thing. If the flame is a little weak, you need to clean out the pilot gas nozzle and that is a little tricky. Blowing it out with air is preferable to poking a pin in it and making the hole too big. I guess you could buy another nozzle pretty cheap.
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:04 AM   #11
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So I got a Butane Torch to try and heat the thermocouple up and see if the pilot light would stay lit. It still didn't work.

It is an Atwood water heater, so must not be the original (I have had the trailer for about a year). New water heater is $300, or $100 for a new gas valve. Is it worth it to replace the entire water heater??
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:35 AM   #12
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Yes replace it. You wouldn't keep a 20 or 30 year old water heater in your house, so don't do it in your trailer either.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:42 AM   #13
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not sure of the exact age, but the water heater was replaced within the last 10 years according to the original owner.
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:00 PM   #14
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The thermocouple did not have enough output to turn on the main valve. Replace the thermocouple. About $4 at your local hardware store.
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:49 PM   #15
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read above, already replaced thermocouple
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:56 PM   #16
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Sounds frustrating.. If Butane torch heat on thermocouple won't trigger gas to flow, then clearly something else is wrong... Among options could be inadequate gas pressure at tank burner, or possibly link to thermostat, which tells burner control unit that water need to be heated.. Thermostat is separate unit that clips to side of tank, and has wire back to controller... Not sure I'd agree that unit needs to be completely replaced, but you may have reached point where RV service shop or tech is needed to finally diagnose and fix problem.. In my mind, water heaters are "dead" when tank springs a leak or burner unit/chamber gets so corroded or rusty the integrity of burner unit no longer safe..
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:37 PM   #17
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One more thing to try

There is a small vent in the bottom of the regulator at the tanks. Blow some compressed air into it, it has worked for me before.

John
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:03 PM   #18
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Just a final update: I replaced the gas control valve and it works great now. Glad I didnt have to replace the entire water heater yet. Thanks for all the suggestions!
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