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Old 06-28-2009, 01:47 PM   #1
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1968 26' Overlander
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Water pump runs but no water comes out

Hi all,

Brand new to the Airstream world and this may have been answered before but please forgive me for asking again.

I have a 1968 Overlander 26' that I just brought home this week. So far everything has checked out fairly well. Today I hooked up a water hose to the intake and had water from all the places that water is supposed to come from. I then filled the fresh water tank to capacity, turned off the water hose from the house, turned on the water pump but am not getting any water flow. The pump is running and "seems" to be doing its part but no water. I don't know the water pump make/model but can get that info if it is important to know.

I now have fresh water tank full of water and I'd like to empty it until I get the pump problem figured out....don't want to tow that extra weight if it isn't doing me any good.

Any thoughts on 1) the pump issue and 2) how to empth the fresh water tank.

Thanks,

Pete
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Old 06-28-2009, 03:45 PM   #2
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The pump has most likely lost it's prime. Remove the input hose from the pump. Take another piece of hose about 2 ft long and put it in a bottle of water that is at or above the pump height. Turn the pump on. If this does not pick up the prime try to pour water directly into the hose while it is above the pump height and then drop the hose into the bottle while someone turns the pump on. Once you have a prime at the pump you should be able to hook up the tank and lift water from it.

If this all fails your pump diaphragm may have a hole in it and require replacement.
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Old 06-28-2009, 06:56 PM   #3
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If the hose clamps aren't tight you could be drawing air in around the connections causing cavation and the pump won't self prime.
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:31 PM   #4
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When we brought our A/S home and tried the water pump, it also made noise but did not pump water. Replaced it with a new identical unit and had the same results. Turns out the PO hooked the pump up to 110 volts ac and not 12 volts dc. I am surprised the pump still works after that much power was run to it.

Derek
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:57 AM   #5
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1968 26' Overlander
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Question

Ok, I finally got the time to look deeper into my water pump problem. I disconnected the intake hose and placed my finger over the intake part of the pump and it is sucking in air. I then attached a piece of hose to the input on the pump and the other end into a jug of water and the pump immediately drew the water from the jug. From that I surmise that the pump is working properly.

When I hook up shore water everything works as it should. I then turn off the shore water and turn on the water pump. It runs but I don't get any water out of the faucets. What am I missing???

Thank for all you help.

Pete
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Old 07-03-2009, 11:07 AM   #6
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There may be an inline valve somewhere that needs to be flipped?
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Old 07-03-2009, 11:11 AM   #7
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Can you suck water out of the tank with your mouth? If you blow into the line to the tank, does the tank bubble? Check the lines from the tank to the pump.

Bill
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Old 07-03-2009, 11:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goswick View Post
Ok, I finally got the time to look deeper into my water pump problem. I disconnected the intake hose and placed my finger over the intake part of the pump and it is sucking in air. I then attached a piece of hose to the input on the pump and the other end into a jug of water and the pump immediately drew the water from the jug. From that I surmise that the pump is working properly.

When I hook up shore water everything works as it should. I then turn off the shore water and turn on the water pump. It runs but I don't get any water out of the faucets. What am I missing???

Thank for all you help.

Pete
Your water pump, if original is over 40 years old.

Internally, there are two round valves that the water must pass thru .

Those valves, in time, stiffen and then don't work correctly.

There are rebuild kits available, for that pump.

If you rebuild it, it most likely will fail again, after another 40 plus years.

Andy
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Old 07-03-2009, 11:19 AM   #9
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1976 27' Overlander
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2) how to empth the fresh water tank.
Pete, there may be a drain plug underneath your trailer, at the bottom of the fresh water tank (which, on my unit, sticks below the belly wrap). You can open that and drain the tank that way.
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Old 07-03-2009, 01:00 PM   #10
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1968 26' Overlander
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Thanks all...I finally got water to flow using the water pump. The pressure ain't noting to write home about but I guess it would be adequate for an emergency situation. I plan to camp at places with full hook-up whenever possible but wante to get the water pump working in case I need it.

Pete
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Old 07-03-2009, 02:14 PM   #11
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Pete,

You can't end a story this way, what was the solution?

Carol
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Old 07-03-2009, 02:24 PM   #12
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Not totally sure what made it work except there is a filter between the pump and the water tank. Inside the plastic housing is a piece of fine screening. It was totally clogged with debris and junk. I cleaned it and put it back in place. That's about all I did to get the water flow. Like I said, the water flow is very weak but it is there. Not sure if the problem is completely fixed but that is where it stands now.

Pete
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Old 07-03-2009, 02:36 PM   #13
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Yup that filter will do it! You may need to flush the tank a few times to get the sediment out before it will stop clogging it. I removed my tank and did it in the driveway. (easy to pressure spray and drain) also on ours the hose from the tank to the pump was falling apart and the rubber parts were in the filter too. If you replace the hose be sure to get one with a spring in it to prevent collapsing. Mike
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Old 07-03-2009, 06:11 PM   #14
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To put in my 2 cents. My last camping trip, 10 minutes after setting up camp my PAR pump stopped pumping, the motor ran at higher than normal speed, sounded unloaded.

Based on discussions in several threads, I decided to rebuild it.

Day before yesterday my rebuild kit arrived. The kit was for a full rebuild. Pulling pump out, rebuilding at a leisurely pace, re-install took about 3 hours. With some side activities included.

After installation pressure came up within about 30 seconds. Good for another 30 years or so.

One of the deciding factors was the integral pressure switch. If switching to newer type pumps, additional plumbing to connect pressure switch would have been required.
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Old 07-03-2009, 07:58 PM   #15
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Thanks for the information about rebuilding the water pump. If it is that easy maybe I'll give that a try as well. Where did you get the kit?

Thanks,

Pete
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Old 07-04-2009, 09:17 AM   #16
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Pete

I got the kit from iboats.com (need the www. in front) for the purpose of this post did not want their ad form to pop up. The kit came in a blister pak, all parts including push rod. If in doubt they have tel no for inquiry.

Cost with shipping under $100.

Just be sure to pick the right kit for your pump model. I'm sure it is available from camping/trailer suppliers as well.

Good luck.
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:16 PM   #17
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Your water flow should be almost as good as the average campground system. If it is not I would look into Andy's suggestion of a rebuild kit to make sure the pump valves are not leaking back to the tank and reducing the pressure.
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Old 07-05-2009, 05:42 PM   #18
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I have been reading and reading trying to find someone that has found a cure for my problem. It matters not whether I am on city water or on the pump I get a surge of water when I first turn on the faucet and then it reduces to a slow stream. This is in the shower. bath and kitchen. I have cleaned all filters and screens that I have with no results. I detached the hose from the pump and tried to blow with a compressor but I seem to have a restriction somewhere....or maybe a valve that I have not found.Seems the system needs some Avidar! HELP86 345Pete
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Old 07-05-2009, 06:10 PM   #19
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Yes you do have a restriction. Any time the initial flow is high and then drops off that is a classic indication of a restriction.

Not sure what year your trailer is but if it is old enough to have copper pipe I would look for a bent pipe that has almost collapsed. If the problem is only on the hot water side I would look at the connections at the rear of the heater for a build up of calcium across the pipe. If it effects both hot and cold you are just going to have to cut into the system at different points until you are past the restriction and replace some piping. There is most likely some foreign matter in there.
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