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Old 12-02-2007, 12:39 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Just saw this thread.

There is very easy way to add a by-pass valve kit to your water pump. It is made by Sea-Tech and the part # is 35-WK04. This includes all necessary fittings, PEX tubing and the required 3-way valve for by-passing the heater tank. All of the fittings push on and form a great water -tight connection.

The preferred method for winterizing in this situation is to drain your water tank in the heater AND your fresh water tank. You fill a few gallons of anti-freeze into your fresh tank, by-pass the heater tank and run the water thru your faucets, toilet, shower and any other water outlets one at a time until the anti-freeze comes out the faucets. This assures you that the valves and p-traps are fully protected and all fittings have anti-freeze in them.

The air method is OK, but you still have to run the anti-freeze thru the system to be sure that everything is protected.
I think SeaTech part no 35WK-04 is a kit to by-pass the hot water heater. The newer Airstreams come from the factory with a by-pass of the hot water heater already installed.

SeaTech does sell a water siphon kit for by-passing the fresh water tank (part# is 35WK-06). The kit description says it can be used with any plastic, CPVC, or copper plumbing line. I don't know whether this includes PEX tubing.
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Old 12-02-2007, 02:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dabeach
Hiker (Mike)

I was looking at the Camco three-way bypass valve and was concerned about the small diameter of the hole in the valve assembly that the water flows through in comparision to the larger diameter of the water supply lines. Have you noticed any problem with the pump not getting enough water when using the valve in the normal operating mode?
Good question. I had the same concern and briefly consider doing the by-pass with two one-way ball valves instead of the Camco. I decided to try the Camco first because a number of forum members have described using it without reporting flow problems.

I can't provide a definite answer to your question because this is my first winter and I haven't yet used the fresh water for a full camping season. I can say that I couldn't detect any change in water flow when testing for leaks after installing the valve.

I think this would be a good question to other forum members who have installed the Camco by-pass valve.
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Old 12-02-2007, 02:17 PM   #31
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Nope, I've used mine for 2 seasons since the install and I haven't noticed a problem with that at all. Everything seems normal.
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Old 12-02-2007, 03:28 PM   #32
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I think I'm going to use the lewster system and in the spring install the bypass for the water pump. If I go looking for supplies or order a kit, it'll take a week or more to finish the job. I'm still wondering how I'll get to the filter, which must be at the inlet in back of the water pump, out to clean it (I'll need to order that 3" tall guy with the wrench for a mouth too), but since we've only camped for 14 nights, I'm not going to worry about it now. I did get an adapter of sorts to blow out the system—a male hose connection tapering down to a small enough part to push against with the rubber tool from the compressor (thanks to whoever suggested that a while back). Good enough until I get the proper adapter. Next spring, I'll just have to flush the potable water tank endlessly and use Clorox a few times to get the taste out—I'd do that anyway.

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Old 12-02-2007, 04:35 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Just saw this thread.

There is very easy way to add a by-pass valve kit to your water pump. It is made by Sea-Tech and the part # is 35-WK04. This includes all necessary fittings, PEX tubing and the required 3-way valve for by-passing the heater tank. All of the fittings push on and form a great water -tight connection.

The preferred method for winterizing in this situation is to drain your water tank in the heater AND your fresh water tank. You fill a few gallons of anti-freeze into your fresh tank, by-pass the heater tank and run the water thru your faucets, toilet, shower and any other water outlets one at a time until the anti-freeze comes out the faucets. This assures you that the valves and p-traps are fully protected and all fittings have anti-freeze in them.

The air method is OK, but you still have to run the anti-freeze thru the system to be sure that everything is protected.
Sorry gang

I meant a water heater bypass it. You don't by-pass the water pump, since you need to have antifreeze in that also .

It was a rough nite last night........................
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Old 12-02-2007, 06:36 PM   #34
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Pink water

It's ok lew. I got it done. Pink water everywhere. Water heater bypassed. Some A/S water pump placement designer, name unknown, has a curse on him or her.

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Old 12-02-2007, 08:34 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawfordGene
It's ok lew. I got it done. Pink water everywhere. Water heater bypassed. Some A/S water pump placement designer, name unknown, has a curse on him or her.

Gene
Hey Gne,

Good work! Now that you are intimately familiar with your water pump, you might want to change it out for a QUIET, better unit like some of us have done. We are using the ShurFlo Smart Sensor 4.0 GPM unit, part #4900-0211. It moves a lot of water, but is variable speed, quiet and very reliable. Plus, no accumulator tank is ever needed.

You could easily move it to a more accessible area in it's present comparment with a little PEX tubing and Sea-Tech fittings. 'Might' take you a half hour for the whole job!

Let me know if you need more info on this conversion.
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Old 12-02-2007, 08:43 PM   #36
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Lew, thanks for the tip. We got kinda used to the noise. I'll keep it in mid for the spring.

Gene
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Old 12-02-2007, 09:59 PM   #37
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Guys, thanks for all the informative posts. I too, have spent many hours designing a pump intake selector valve arraingement to conveniently pump atifreeze through the system. I tried the Sea Tec three way kit designed for that purpose. No matter how it was fitted before the strainer it would suck air along with the antifreeze. I replaced the valve with clamps and a short piece of clear plastic tubing. No more air in the system. I stopped at Airstream Service and explained the problem. I was told you can not use push on fitting on the suction side of the pump.
I had been concerned with flow restrictions also, and did not think the Camco valve bore looked large enough. Back to the drawing board. I have deducted that in the plumbing trade I need a "full flow" rated 3-way valve. It takes a 3/8" valve to match the I. D. of the 1/2" PEX the factory uses in the water system.
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:51 PM   #38
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A/S winterizing method; water pump

I was talking to an Airstream tech about another issue, and I mentioned the location of the water pump. He said they just blow out the lines and add antifreeze to the traps. Thus, they don't add antifreeze to the waterlines. I mentioned this was different from the owner's manual. His reply was that blowing air through forced the water out of the pump. I asked what about the screen on the inlet side of the pump that I can't even see. He didn't seem to think it had to be cleaned. My thought—something has to get caught in it someday.

I asked if others had complained and he said yes, the company is aware of the problem. I suggested the company should make good on it and fix the location.

I suggest anyone with this pump location should call A/S and complain and ask whether the company is going to do a recall and relocate the pump.

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Old 12-07-2007, 05:29 PM   #39
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I Tried

I think I started this thread. After many hours of research and help from the Forum, I gave up and used the factory forced air method.I called the factory 3 times and they will not admit that the pump is not accessable.Fortunately I have not had many other issues and from my point of view dealing with Airstream has been a very unpleasant and frustrating experience. Airstream is aware of the problem and they should relocate the pump for all of us who have the problem. But don't hold your breath.
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Old 12-26-2007, 02:16 PM   #40
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As I Have about 3 left weeks before final pickup of my 2007 FB SE , i was wondering if i should have the dealer install a bypass kit before winterizing it. They will not winterize it until after i go through the final PDI inspection at that time. What bypass kit should i have them install, and what should it cost? I'm picking up my rig from a southern california dealer (Revolution RV) where winterizing is not required in that area,then bringing it home to the Lake Tahoe area which requires winterizing.
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Old 12-26-2007, 09:21 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishfred
... What bypass kit should i have them install, and what should it cost?...
hi fred

something like this, and under 20 bucks.

pump converter for pink stuff...

a/s SHOULD just include them installed from birth.

cheers
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Old 12-27-2007, 07:51 PM   #42
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Let The Dealer Do It

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishfred
As I Have about 3 left weeks before final pickup of my 2007 FB SE , i was wondering if i should have the dealer install a bypass kit before winterizing it. They will not winterize it until after i go through the final PDI inspection at that time. What bypass kit should i have them install, and what should it cost? I'm picking up my rig from a southern california dealer (Revolution RV) where winterizing is not required in that area,then bringing it home to the Lake Tahoe area which requires winterizing.
I would definitely recommend asking the dealer to install the kit. I would be interested how they actually access the pump to install the kit. I wish I had sufficient knowledge at the tie of my purchase but we learn from experience.
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