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Old 08-17-2015, 04:05 PM   #15
cwf
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Getting ready to order some parts. When you guys are saying igniter/flame sensor, are you talking about the spark probe? It's basically the pilot.

It is the electronic board called UIB (universal igniter board). I got mine from this guy. Spoke to directly on phone! Helped isolate and ensure this was the issue!... R & G Electronic Home
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:31 AM   #16
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It is the electronic board called UIB (universal igniter board). I got mine from this guy. Spoke to directly on phone! Helped isolate and ensure this was the issue!... R & G Electronic Home

Thanks. I have a spark probe I'm going to try this weekend and if that does not do the trick, I will call R&G and order a new igniter board. Fingers are crossed but regardless, I'm learning about the heater system.

JSE
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:17 AM   #17
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Hi from AZ. . . as my old man frequently reminded me, do the easy stuff first, Dummy. Clean tube & replace thermocouple (cheaper than board) It's worked for me in the past., regards, Craig
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:50 AM   #18
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It's not the problem most of you are chasing, but when we first got the AS, our heater would not run after initial startup. Symptoms included low water pressure and immediate shutdown in electric or gas mode. The unit had been winterized and the isolation valve was not returned to the open position at commissioning. Since the valve is hidden behind drawers, it took some investigation to find that it was still closed. Pat
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Old 09-20-2015, 08:07 AM   #19
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I want to replace my water heater with a tankless anyone have any thoughts on that.? I have a 1964 Ambassador Land yacht and I thought that it's over 50 years old scares me.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:11 AM   #20
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If you can find one that fits the dimensions, no reason not to replace with one... especially if you can find a 'marine' version which can handle the movement you will have towing...
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:04 AM   #21
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Update

Hey sorry for being late coming back to this thread. Just been crazy busy at work and out of town most weekends for various stuff.

Anyway, the spark probe seemed to do the job. The heater fires up and keep a flame.

One thing though. When I hit the switch to turn on the heater, the switch lights up red but then turns off. The heater is water heater is still running but the red light goes off. I could have sworn this stayed on before but now I'm second guessing myself. Does the red switch stay on after the heater fires up?

Thanks everyone for the advise and help. Nice to know there is such a great community if helpfule people here.
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:05 AM   #22
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On my 2008 Classic I get no light unless there is a failure to ignite. I flip it off/on and the heater goes through another lighting cycle.

I find my water heater flame will sometimes die out like its running out of oxygen. I've tried adjusting the air gate. Seemed to help but it still will do it. However it lights right back up.

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