I am sure this is very basic, but we have not figured out how to get water into the hotwater tank. We see where we put it into the Water tank, does this flow over to the hot water tank? It does not say in the book that we have and this is our first experience with a camping trailer. (just bought on Friday)
you shouldn't actually have to "do" anything; the hot water tank is just part of the supply line, and when the lines are pressurized by either city pressure, or the trailer's pump, the tank should fill. just like in your house.
there is one thing: if your unit is fitter with a by-pass valve, that would have to be set to "not by-pass" the water heater. people install these so they don't have to fill the hwh with antifreeze in the winter. saves 6 to 10 gallons of antifreeze! anyway, the bypass kits I have seen look like a hose that runs from top to bottom of the hwh...about a foot long (?) with a valves where it connects to the input and output of the hwh. Normally, the water goes into the heater through one of these valves, and heads out to the fixtures through the other. this by-pass hose connects the input line to the output line on the outside of the hwh, and if the valves are thrown the right way, water just goes up the hose and out to the fixtures, instead of going into the heater to get heated. so see if you have one of those installed, and if you do, get the valves situated properly. if you don't, you should just be able to connect a hose to the city water supply connection on the back of the trailer, and turn the hot water on, and wait for it to stop spitting air. run the hwh for a few minutes, and you should have hot water.
When you are filling the fresh water tank (not hooked up to city water) it helps to turn on the waterpump and open a hot water faucet in the trailer until water flows smoothly. This will fill the hot water tank and allow for that much additianal water to be added to the fresh water tank.
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Rick Klein
'01 Bambi
'99 Land Rover Disco
I didn't say that you "should" fill the tanks w/ antifreeze; just that someone else might have set it up w/ a bypass valve. you don't really want to put antifreeze in the tanks, anyway...just drain out the water from the freshwater tank, and drain the lines, and hot water heater.
in our cold climates up north, some people pump antifreeze into the water lines by putting the input line for the pump into a gallon of antifreeze, and turning on the water at the fixtures until the pink stuff comes out. (pump sucks the antifreeze out of the jug, instead of pumping out of the water tank). If you do this w/o a bypass valve like I mentioned, you'll have to have enough antifreeze to fill the hwh. (a whole bunch). but with a bypass, you don't need that much, because the water lines don't hold that much liquid.
there's a whole contingent of TX folks here that can tell you what you need to do about winterizing, but I'm willing to bet that all you need to do is drain the lines and the holding tanks. My owner's manual says to open the drain valves, let all the water drain out, then jack the trailer all the way up with the tounge jack...let any remaining water run out, then lower the jack all the way..let all that water out...and that's it. The manual does say that if you have below freezing temps, to put some antifreeze down the sink and shower drains, to keep the traps from freezing.
We live in Houston, Tx and it in general it is not that cold here. Is draining the tanks during non use an option vs the anti-freeze?
Draining is all you need to do to the water heater. I'm in Austin, and I don't drain mine unless a hard freeze is predicted. I just did it for the first time this winter. In Houston, you may not need to drain the tanks or use antifreeze for most winters. It takes a hard freeze to do damage.
After I bypass the water heater I blow out the lines with about 60# if air pressure. I have a tire valve fitting that screws into the city water inlet for this purpose. I open the faucets one at a time and let a blast of air into the city water inlet. I can tell by the sound when the lines are clear of water. Then, I pour a little antifreeze into each trap. Don't forget the shower trap.
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John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2004 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
Please come out to our vintage event, but please first RSVP at the phone numbers listed on my web page so that we know how many folks to feed and how many vintage Airstreams there will be in attendance.
Do you know that you can have free WBCCI membership through the end of this year just by applying. All you need is a bill of sale and not belonged to WBCCI before. To get the membership form, call or email either our president or our membership chairman at the numbers given on my web page. We would very much like to get an active vintage subgroup going here in Austin.
I will be tied up getting my own trailer out there, or I would help you.
I guess you just have to cast around for a friend with a capable tow vehicle or a place that will rent something capable. You might want to touch base with Myron Fischer who is hosting the event. He might have some ideas. Phone # is on the web page I posted.
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John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2004 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
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