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03-21-2008, 12:36 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Youngsville
, Louisiana
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14
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Water heater trouble
I am having trouble with my Atwood gas/elec water heater. It is getting gas and there is a small flame when you turn it on from inside the camper, but it doesn't go to that blast (like a crawfish burnner) just the same small flame. I checked the fuse on the circut board and it's good, I had a full tank of propane. Anyone have any ideas.
Thanks
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Bruce & Claudia
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03-21-2008, 01:00 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2019 30' Classic
Byhalia
, Mississippi
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 821
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Not a pro here but check for spider web or other obstruction in the orifice. blow it out with compressed air if possible. How you confirmed the gas valve is actually opening?
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Greg
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03-21-2008, 01:06 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,701
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I'd second the suggestion to clean everything out real good...we had the same problem. Blew it all out, cleaned it really well and it's worked fine since...6+ years.
Shari
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03-21-2008, 01:08 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1990 34' Excella
Parsonsfield,
, Maine
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 79
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I'm a little confused by your question. When you mentioned it's gas and electric do you mean 12volt direct spark ignition or do you mean 110 volt heating element? I have never seen the inside control for the gas and 110 units. The control for my gas only unit with direct spark ignition does not have a small pilot flame and a large flame, but only a large flame. If you are getting a small flame with this unit it might be a gas valve problem. To start with I would check the gas pressure with a manometer. If that is ok it is probably your gas valve. A few years ago I encountered a gas problem where I had a hydraulic lock in the gas line. I disconnected the gas line on the bottom of the tongue and drained out about a cup of dark brown goo. That solved my problem.
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03-21-2008, 01:47 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Youngsville
, Louisiana
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14
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gas/110 volts
I guess I wasn't very clear. It is a direct spark and the flame is only small. Being the tight wad I am I will try cleaning it out first and see what happens. It has been sitting on a lake sence last year so there could be something in the orfice. I know there isn't a dirt dobber nest or anything big as I did look but took nothing apart the last time we were there. I had to much fishing to do...LOL I guess when we go up after Easter I will plan on it being a work first and fish last.
Thanks.
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Bruce & Claudia
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03-21-2008, 03:40 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1975 25' Tradewind
Central
, California
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 74
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Turn the temp lever to hot before trying anything else. If it has been moved to cold somehow, your pilot light will light, but it will not turn the heater on. On some models this lever is behind the on off knob and can be easy to overlook. I know this sounds over simple. But simple things can be easy to look past because they seem so simple...
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03-21-2008, 05:39 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepsi
Turn the temp lever to hot before trying anything else. If it has been moved to cold somehow, your pilot light will light, but it will not turn the heater on. On some models this lever is behind the on off knob and can be easy to overlook. I know this sounds over simple. But simple things can be easy to look past because they seem so simple...
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For informational purposes only.......there is no pilot on a direct spark ignition(DSI) water heater . A coil provides a spark thru an electrode that ignites the LP once the igniter board opens the gas valve, and then stops sparking once the board senses the presence of the flame.
As for the problem, there are several places you should look. First, as mentioned above, is a clear gas supply line, especially at the orifice. This is a tiny, precision-drilled opening that meters the exact amount of LP that your specific model requires. You have to remove the supply tube, and you'll find the orifice threaded into the end.
Carefully remove it and blow compressed air thru it AND NOTHING ELSE!!!!
Never put anything, not even a tooth pic thru the orfice or you will damage it.
Once that is clean, blow out the supply tube and the burner itself and try re-ignition. If you have the same problem, you probably have a bad gas valve. This should first be checked wih a manometer for proper adjustment (11" water guage). If it is set at this parameter, then it is usually defective and should be replaced. They can NOT be serviced!
Hope this helps!
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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03-22-2008, 08:34 AM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Youngsville
, Louisiana
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14
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Thanks for all the help. I am going to go with a good cleaning and blowing it out with compressed air first.
Google is a wonderful thing, I was looking at buying a manometer but while searching Google found that a home made one will work just as good for a fraction of the coast.
Thanks again to all.
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Bruce & Claudia
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04-11-2015, 06:04 PM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
1989 32' Excella
Bay City
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 46
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atwood G6A-6E problems
my heater came on after cleaning wire terminals and ran through a few cycles and and now nothing. replaced eco and therm switch today and still nothing.it's got 12v on each side of thermostat but no voltage coming out of the igniter board. what should I check next?
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04-11-2015, 06:10 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt ken
my heater came on after cleaning wire terminals and ran through a few cycles and and now nothing. replaced eco and therm switch today and still nothing.it's got 12v on each side of thermostat but no voltage coming out of the igniter board. what should I check next?
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If you have 12VDC into the board, you might need a replacement board.....
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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01-16-2017, 05:56 AM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
2002 25' Classic
Panama City
, Florida
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 45
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Water Heater
Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
For informational purposes only.......there is no pilot on a direct spark ignition(DSI) water heater . A coil provides a spark thru an electrode that ignites the LP once the igniter board opens the gas valve, and then stops sparking once the board senses the presence of the flame.
As for the problem, there are several places you should look. First, as mentioned above, is a clear gas supply line, especially at the orifice. This is a tiny, precision-drilled opening that meters the exact amount of LP that your specific model requires. You have to remove the supply tube, and you'll find the orifice threaded into the end.
Carefully remove it and blow compressed air thru it AND NOTHING ELSE!!!!
Never put anything, not even a tooth pic thru the orfice or you will damage it.
Once that is clean, blow out the supply tube and the burner itself and try re-ignition. If you have the same problem, you probably have a bad gas valve. This should first be checked wih a manometer for proper adjustment (11" water guage). If it is set at this parameter, then it is usually defective and should be replaced. They can NOT be serviced!
Hope this helps!
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Lewster,
So what if I have a small flame like a pilot light coming out of the gas valve orifice after the heater cuts off. It stays on until I bloe it off. Does that mean I have a bad valve?
R/ Rum Runner
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01-16-2017, 06:28 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rum Runner
Lewster,
So what if I have a small flame like a pilot light coming out of the gas valve orifice after the heater cuts off. It stays on until I bloe it off. Does that mean I have a bad valve?
R/ Rum Runner
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Sure sounds like it as your heater does NOT have a pilot flame. I would check the voltage at the gas valve to be sure that it is above 11.0VDC. If it is and the 'pilot' is still present, then I would think that it is either the gas valve or the control board.
If you are reading a full 12.6+VDC at the valve and it is still 'leaking', I would start by replacing the valve.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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