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Old 06-09-2015, 10:43 PM   #15
4 Rivet Member
1977 31' Sovereign
Lynnwood , Washington
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 282
All I know is that the anodes I rotate in and out of my Atwood every 6 months sure take a beating. I can only imagine what my aluminum tank would look like without them.


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Old 06-12-2015, 07:21 AM   #16
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1998 30' Excella 1000
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 546
I'm on my third Atwood water heater after 18 years of full-timing. The first two (tanks) lasted a total of 15 years. When I replaced the first one, I saved the (expensive) circuit board. When I replaced the second one, I saved all the removable parts. I've since learned that you can purchase just the tank, and replacing it is only a little more difficult than doing the whole unit, and quite a bit cheaper. With my stock of spare parts, I'll just be replacing the tank next time.

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Old 06-12-2015, 07:48 AM   #17
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2000 23' Safari
Vero Beach , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 180
Fifteen years old and used a lot. Still has original water heater, a/c unit, refrigerator and microwave. Hate to go new. I think new fails more often, but then wouldn't an old fart think so?
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:22 PM   #18
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2005 25' Safari
rochester , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 58
post update on water heater.......removed old, measured calc. opening, I found opening was ALMOST large enough to force in the new.....BUT NOT QUITE....

I would post that b-4 the mistake to try and make it work......make a small cut ( dremel drill) down the bottom support frame and bend over the about 1/4 inch to allow the heater access....I also cut a channel for the wiring harness (about one inch) using same process at the lower right corner. Hope this helps someone some day.

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