Water heater replacement - Page 2

davidz71 · 09-20-2002, 08:37 PM

Craig,
Bobby is saying pretty much the same thing as myself, if you spend most of your time in campgrounds or where a 110 v. source is available then go with the LP/Electric. The only reason a Hottrod was mentioned would be if you went the cheaper LP route now and decided down the road that you needed to go electric then you have a source. If I was planning on keeping the camper for a number of years then I would follow my motto: "I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it". By the way, CW catalog shows the models I mentioned earlier as 6 gallon models. The flyer sent me showing a sale price in red is just a price reduction in the 2002 catalog. I would still search around other resources before deciding who to buy from.

Craig · 09-20-2002, 08:53 PM

Thanks for the clarifications! I think I (almost) completely understand now.
Only question I still have is... Will an LP/electric WH work on electric alone? Or does it use a combo of LP and electric to work?
Thanks again for all the help!
Craig

davidz71 · 09-20-2002, 08:56 PM

It is my understanding that they work on electricity alone, LP alone or both when you need fast recovery of water temp.

James Schmidt · 09-21-2002, 03:52 AM

The elecric/gas water heater will work on either or both sources. They are independent of one another. I have been camping for 20 years and have used only gas for my water heater. The only reason that I can see for having electric available is to save on propane gas and a faster recovery. I personally can not justify the extra expense and find that gas is plenty fast! One downside to electric heating is that it reduces your available electric capacity for other things(A/C, microwave,etc.) when the electric element is in use. It really boils down to personal choice.

Craig · 09-21-2002, 01:46 PM

Could someone that has an LP/electric water heater please let me know where the electric is run to the water heater? The front where the LP connection is, or rear where the water lines are?

I'm thinking about running the electric line before I spend the money and I want to see how difficult it is, but need to know where I need to get the juice to.

Thanks!

BobbyW · 09-21-2002, 01:57 PM

On the Atwood 4-6-10 gallon heaters, the electrical connection is on the back (interior) side of the heater, near the water inlet-outlet connections

-BobbyWright

Craig · 09-21-2002, 02:03 PM

Thanks, Bobby!

Is the only difference with the installation the addition of the electric?

I think I'm going for the electric.

Craig

BobbyW · 09-21-2002, 02:34 PM

Yes, that is the only difference. Here is a diagram from the manual. I can email you a clearer one if you like.

-BobbyWright

Craig · 09-21-2002, 03:31 PM

That would be great. My email is:
shandtastic@juno.com

Craig

Craig · 09-23-2002, 08:49 PM

Uwe,
When you replaced you water heater, how did you seal to the body? Did you attach the water heater first, then use Vulkem (or something else?) to seal it after it was attached. Or did you apply Vulkem and then push the water heater into it to create a seal?
Thanks,
Craig

uwe · 09-23-2002, 09:05 PM

Craig,
When I removed the old water heater, al the dry sealant stayed on the skinof the trailer. I carefully cleaned off the old sealing compound and washed the surround of the now exposed hole with some adhesive remover.
I pushed in the water heater without any sealant first to make sure things line up which they ALMOST did, as I explained in an earlier post.
ALMOST means that I had difficulty getting the treads started for the water pipes and just getting the water heater to sit init's cavity without strain or binding forces. After a whileI got it all nice and relaxed and then it was a piece of cake.
But your question was the sealer i used. It is generic RV sealer, comes in a fat roll with paper in between the layers of the material, which feels like playdough.
I applied it to the skin, poked the screw holes through it and then put the water heater in place, and screwed it in. I had the caulking gun in my hands already when I decided to get the pipes started next - which was a good thing, because they would not start and I had to pull the screws back out and break the new seal so I could get the pipe nuts started. Anyways, I then put things back for the second time and shaved off the squished out sealant with a razor blade. The remaining edge got a thin lip of Vulkem and the wet finger to smooth out things. The old gas line did not fit - had to make a new one. This took me longer than the entire water heater installation to this point. The sealer holds well, and the painted door looks like it belongs.

Craig · 09-24-2002, 06:16 AM

Uwe,

Thanks a lot for the input. My water heater is ordered so I should be working on it soon!

What is a good source for Vulkem?

Craig

uwe · 09-24-2002, 11:41 AM

I believe InlandRV has it. My trailer had several tubes in a compartment, so I never bought any of it.
Maybe a search with google will turn up some in your area.
Good luck! It is a lot of fun to take a new part of the trailer into operation after everything works.

Craig · 09-26-2002, 08:47 AM

Uwe,

Is this the generic RV sealer you mentioned?:

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...11&skunum=4698

Still gathering supplies...

Thanks,

Craig