Water Heater Problem

[LowellN]

I need some advice from the pros. My problem started when I realized that I had no LP pressure to the stove or WH. I replaced the old fisher regulator with a new marshall, and replaced the old dry-rotted flexible hose with a new one. Still no LP to the appliances. I took off the hose at the the joint where the rubber hose meets the copper main line and blew some low pressure air from my compressor into the lines to see if they were blocked. Then I took the valves off one at a time at the appliances to see if the air was reaching them. While I had the valves off I replaced them with new ones, since the old ones had seen better days. Still no air reaching the burner tube of the WH. Is the WH shot? Any advice to troubleshoot is appreciated.
Another question. If the WH is toast can I completely remove the WH from the outside? The WH on my center bath Sovereign is located beside the toilet under the vanity. It looks impossible to access from the inside. Please let me know if you have had any experience on replacing or troubleshooting a similar problem. Camping season is getting close and I still have to put the floor back in the front of the coach. LOL

Thanks,
Lowell

[Rebee]

I am not trying to be a smart ass but did you replace the regulator at the bottle with the newer type safety units? The new safety regulators, when you screw the hose on, they must make perfect contact or no gas will pass through the regulator. I have a very difficult time with the new models. It is very easy to get them crossed. When this happens the regulator does not see any back pressure and will not open.

Good luck

dale

[dscluchfc]

Just a question.....what does the regulator making contact have to do with getting compressed AIR through a line up to the water heater?
It sounds to me as though the copper feed line for the LP may have a corrosion obstruction, or a flake off from the old dry rotted rubber inside the line.
Perhaps disconnecting the LP feed line from the waterheater and back flushing under HIGH pressure compressed AIR would clear the line if it is foreign material inside the line. However, if the lines have cankered with corrosion, replumbing with new copper is not that big a deal.
---just my 2 cents---

[thenewkid64]

You mentioned that you are not getting air to the burner tube of the heater. The main gas valve will only open IF the thermocouple says it is OK to come on. Meaning the thermocouple has to be hot enough to make the gas valve open. If you are doing it cold then you will get no gas/air/etc.

If you disconnect the line from the heater or stove do you have flow?

One other thing to try is to be sure that the new regulator is even working. Sometimes they are DOA. You may also want to check the line pressure once you have verified it is working. Most regulators have an adjustment screw to adjust the pressure. 11 inches WC is the correct pressure (approx 4 PSI). If you are too low you will have trouble with the transition form pilot to full burner in the furnace and water heater. Too High and the appliances will run too hot, possibly causing damage to the heat exchangers, etc. Everything except the stove are simply on or off when it comes to gas flow.

[Antique Pedaler]

In dewinterizing the Bambi, I find I have reduced hot water flow. Checked all valves and they are complety open. I remember reading, here, a similar problem and as I recall the answer was mineral buildup on that replacable element in the tank. Don't recall the name. Can anyone help?
Thanks in advance.

[joel]

Some opd valves will shut off if you open them to fast.I had one do it. I shut it off and removed the line from the tank to relieve the pressure and then reconnected and opened it very slowly.Thesame thing happens with my fish cooker tanksif I open them to fast.