Water Heater Problem

[Siegmann]

The little aluminum thermostats (about the size of your thumb, with a spring like coil around it, under black plastic cover, the size of a playing card) should be inspected to see that they are touching the tank. They also can be tested on your stove top in a pan of water. The ECO (high temp shut-off) will open at 180 degrees, the regular thermostat, at I believe 140 degrees. You can check them with a continuity meter. I actually can hear them click open if I listen as the water temperature rises in the pan.

[J. Morgan]

The new thermostats are about all that is left on the control side, those almost have to do the trick.

Good luck !!!

[Minno]

We use only propane to heat our water. In fact, we put a propane only heater in Little Girl. We turn it off when we're done with hot water for awhile to conserve propane (I'm becoming my mother) since the heater heats the water up in just about 10 minutes anyway and it stays hot for hours. We never used electric when we had the option....

Kay

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by Minno

We use only propane to heat our water. In fact, we put a propane only heater in Little Girl. We turn it off when we're done with hot water for awhile to conserve propane (I'm becoming my mother) since the heater heats the water up in just about 10 minutes anyway and it stays hot for hours. We never used electric when we had the option....

Kay

Old Lucy (our 2005 25FB) had the LP only heater. We used it the same way as you described to conserve propane.

New Lucy (our 2012 23FB) came with the combo electric/gas water heater. We have been using both to heat water since we got the trailer. The recent problems don't render Lucy unusable, but I want to get the system working properly.

Brian

[Minno]

I understand and would do the same thing in your situation. If one thing is not working correctly, and it leads to something else going, you're stuck. If propane gets low, then you may still have electric if you have hookups.

Kay

[nickmeloy]

Originally Posted by moosetags

...
What I am not sure about is whether the water heater is cycling off when the water is fully heated. I don't know how to determine if it has cycled off when running on electricity...

Brian

You can use a clip-on amp meter on the 120 VAC line to read the current draw on that line, if there is room to get the clip around the wire.

[RM66caravel]

We are looking at the Atwood od-50. Hope to order it soon along with the fantastic vent
Cliff

[moosetags]

I guess that it's time to report the results of Lucy's water heater repair. In my classic repair method of throwing parts at the problem, I seem to have corrected the situation.

Neither the gas or electric water heater function was cycling off when the water was fully heated. This had caused the relay to burn up. I replaced the relay, and it still was not cycling off. I then replaced the thermal cut-off and installed a new Atwood Thermostat Kit.

I have continued to keep a close eye on the system, and so far, so good.

Brian

[Zymurbrian]

Moose tags,

I have the same symptoms with the water heater in our 2012 25FB--burning wire smell followed by failure of the water heater. Ours died on both the propane as well as 110v sides but replacing the 2amp fuse on the exterior of the heater returned propane service. My problem is simple- where the heck is the heating element located on the heater? It must be covered by the insulation. I DO NOT want to removed the tank just to change the element! On a daily basis I'm reminded yet again of the poor design that went into our trailer and its lack of easy servicing.


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[lsbrodsky]

Sorry to renew this thread but the last post is most telling. I have a 2012 25FB and I need to access the 120vac electrical on my water heater. Works fine on propane, not on AC. Best as I can tell that is on the back but whether I stick my head in the storage compartment from the outside or remove the inside panel for access to the bypass valve, I cannot even see the heater and relay.
It seems that I must remove or partially remove the whole water heater to get access. Right? Has anyone tried to access the 120v on a 25FB? Thanks
Larry

[OTRA15]

Can either of you offer Larry guidance on this?

Thanks,

Peter

Originally Posted by moosetags

I guess that it's time to report the results of Lucy's water heater repair. In my classic repair method of throwing parts at the problem, I seem to have corrected the situation.

Neither the gas or electric water heater function was cycling off when the water was fully heated. This had caused the relay to burn up. I replaced the relay, and it still was not cycling off. I then replaced the thermal cut-off and installed a new Atwood Thermostat Kit.

I have continued to keep a close eye on the system, and so far, so good.

Brian

Originally Posted by Zymurbrian

Moose tags,

I have the same symptoms with the water heater in our 2012 25FB--burning wire smell followed by failure of the water heater. Ours died on both the propane as well as 110v sides but replacing the 2amp fuse on the exterior of the heater returned propane service. My problem is simple- where the heck is the heating element located on the heater? It must be covered by the insulation. I DO NOT want to removed the tank just to change the element! On a daily basis I'm reminded yet again of the poor design that went into our trailer and its lack of easy servicing.


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[lsbrodsky]

Thanks, I saw those posts in my search, but nothing about access and element replacement. At least on the 25FB it seems that Airstream has once again ignored maintainability.
Larry

[lsbrodsky]

I may have "lucked out" although it will be more expensive. I decided to check voltage at the yellow relay control with the switch energized. Since I know the heater works properly on lpg, I figure I should have 12v on the yellow wire. Nope, a few millivolts.
I have ordered an expensive board, what a hassle with part number changes. At least it mounts from the front! I'll know in a week or so.
Larry

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

Thanks, I saw those posts in my search, but nothing about access and element replacement. At least on the 25FB it seems that Airstream has once again ignored maintainability.
Larry

I figured you had seen those posts, but quoted the posters so they would hopefully get an email and maybe reply. Good luck with the fix!

I can relate to your predicament, because in the 90's we had a 25' and a cracked elbow on the back of the water heater. I had to take the bed apart to work on it, but all went well. It helped that we were right on the beach in San Diego during a terrible January back home in NY!

Peter

[lsbrodsky]

As an update, Dometic told me it is the element or relay, since everything works on lpg. They told me to check the voltage on the yellow relay solenoid first, though.
I did that and it was only 25 millivolts. So, I ordered a new circuit board. About 4 different part numbers to get to the same thing. At least the circuit board is accessible and easy to replace.
It was a five minute job this morning and I now measure 11vdc at the solenoid so apparently the circuit board failed after 4 years of intermittent use. Not Airstream's fault, just a sign of the cheap products in RV's. Atwood in this case. I asked Atwood tech support expected life of the board and they said "unknown, it is electronic and we source it elsewhere".
I still have to refill water and connect to shorepower to test everything.
Larry

[polarlyse]

We had a similar problem on the water heater in our 2001 Excella. From the bathroom side there is a cabinet panel to remove and gain access to 2 small sensors. One is high temp the other is low temp. Easy to replace but not so easy for big hands to reach in our trailer but a simple fix. Don't recall where I got them ( E-bay comes to mind) but they were in the neighborhood of $10 or so in a blister package. Solved the issue for me and been good ever since.

[OTRA15]

Thanks for the update, and glad the fix was relatively easy. We had a furnace circuit board go bad, and there are plenty of reports here on similar problems with all appliances.

Cheap parts indeed . . .

Happy Trails!

Peter

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

As an update, Dometic told me it is the element or relay, since everything works on lpg. They told me to check the voltage on the yellow relay solenoid first, though.
I did that and it was only 25 millivolts. So, I ordered a new circuit board. About 4 different part numbers to get to the same thing. At least the circuit board is accessible and easy to replace.
It was a five minute job this morning and I now measure 11vdc at the solenoid so apparently the circuit board failed after 4 years of intermittent use. Not Airstream's fault, just a sign of the cheap products in RV's. Atwood in this case. I asked Atwood tech support expected life of the board and they said "unknown, it is electronic and we source it elsewhere".
I still have to refill water and connect to shorepower to test everything.
Larry

[lsbrodsky]

Nope, fix was not it.See my newest post on this.
Larry