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RFP · 08-25-2019, 04:16 PM

I searched, I really did (maybe I'm search challenged).

Today, for the first time, the water heater will not light - and stay Iit - on propane.

The lighter appears to work fine: it click-clicks-spark-sparks and I get a nice blue flame for a second or so. A couple of those, and it's done trying... red light comes on.

Yesterday, as I was sitting outside the trailer close to the water heater, it lit, but the flame was not consistent... it kind of "blurbled" and the flame pulsated. I gave the gas valve a rap with a ratchet handle and it started working perfectly: steady, blue flame and consistent gas flow sound.

The water heater is working perfectly on shore power, so, this is not a trip stopper, but I'd like to know what to do when I get back home.

Thanks so much.

Robert

CBWELL · 08-25-2019, 04:32 PM

Blow out the combustion chamber and clean the orfice. Also confirm that the thermocouple has not been moved out of the flame or jarred loose when you gave the gas valve a "rap" !!

RFP · 08-25-2019, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBWELL

Blow out the combustion chamber and clean the orfice. Also confirm that the thermocouple has not been moved out of the flame or jarred loose when you gave the gas valve a "rap" !!

Thank you for your reply, I appreciate you giving my problem consideration.

I did the things you suggested, and after I read your reply I did it again. No help.

Well, if the thing will continue to work on 'shore power,' I'll be OK for the remainder of this trip.

Lily&Me · 08-25-2019, 05:48 PM

Yep, clean everything out good, and make sure there is nothing blocking the tubes.

Wasps like to build nests in our propane tubing.

Maybe turn your propane burners in the galley on for a few seconds, be sure everything is flowing properly.

I just had some kind of wire replaced on my hot water heater...couldn’t name it, but now it works like a charm.

Good luck,

Maggie

CBWELL · 08-25-2019, 05:51 PM

Do a google search, Suburban water heater trouble shooting. It is a PDF file that gives lots of information and hints to solve your problem. Also check out Atwood water heater troubleshooting. Both sites are great!! One other thought, is your 12volt supply good? Also mentioned that if the water is hot, having been heated with electrical element, the sequence will not work properly until water temp drops below 100 degrees1

Alumaholic · 08-25-2019, 07:01 PM

Your water heater is not detecting the presence of flame, so it shuts off the propane.
Either the flame sensor is not in the flame where it belongs, or it needs to be replaced with one that works. Eezy Peezy

Pencilpusher · 08-25-2019, 08:45 PM

This usually means your Atwood circuit board for the hot water heater has gone bad. There are numerous threads on the forum discussing this issue. Replace with a Dinosaur brand circuit board and this will never be a problem again.

Al and Missy · 08-25-2019, 09:05 PM

If you rapped on the gas valve (do you mean the one in the heater, or the regulator) and it got well I'd start with the valve.

Al

Argosy man · 08-25-2019, 09:29 PM

The most common problem and the cheapest fix to see if it is the solution is to replace the Thermocoupler. Had the exact same problem on my home water heater- this solved it.

Shawn

GammaDog · 08-26-2019, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alumaholic

Your water heater is not detecting the presence of flame, so it shuts off the propane.
Either the flame sensor is not in the flame where it belongs, or it needs to be replaced with one that works. Eezy Peezy

I had this precise issue this summer. It was an alignment/proximity issue of the flame in the tube to the sensor. Too many pothole hits? It sounds like you may have checked this RFP, so other posts may id the fix you your problem, but for people using this thread for research, check the flame first.

Also... could be low gas pressure in the feed line. I didn't see that mentioned above. Low LP level in the active tank or failing regulator could do that... and the water heater may just be the first gas appliance to complain.

Wanderer2604 · 08-26-2019, 10:18 AM

This has happened to me many times. The bracket that holds the igniter / flame sensor gets corroded and does not make a good ground connection. Take off the bracket and clean up the surface where it is mounted and the surface of the bracket that touches. The ignition is high voltage and conquers the poor ground, but the flame sensor needs a good ground. If the control board does not detect a flame, it shuts down the gas for safety.

waninae39 · 08-26-2019, 02:14 PM

happened to me twice. its likely a bad Atwood circuit board for the hot water heater

There are many threads discussing this issue.
Get a Dinosaur brand circuit board and you'll never have a problem again

Mike1997 · 08-26-2019, 05:10 PM

If you have cleaned the igniter and sensor, but its still not working properly; like PencilPusher said.....its the circuit board. Before my water heater problems, my gas furnace and gas 3-way frig stopped working. All 3 appliances needed a board replacement. Like the frig...if its working on electric but not gas....that's a big clue.

Let us know how it gets resolved.

banderabob · 08-26-2019, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lily&Me

Yep, clean everything out good, and make sure there is nothing blocking the tubes.

Wasps like to build nests in our propane tubing.

Maybe turn your propane burners in the galley on for a few seconds, be sure everything is flowing properly.

I just had some kind of wire replaced on my hot water heater...couldn’t name it, but now it works like a charm.

Good luck,

Maggie

One of the first things I did on purchase of our 23D a few years ago was cut and
Install standard metal screening on the inside of all exterior vent panels. Water heater and both refrigerator panels. And purchased a bug screen for the heater exhaust.

CruizinDux · 08-26-2019, 08:44 PM

Under the sub category "screens" and FWIW...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ml#post2281557. ( 2nd paragraph )

B

RFP · 09-04-2019, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike1997

< snip >
Let us know how it gets resolved.

So, I've installed the new Dinosaur circuit board and it's still not fixed!

I'm not sure how this new board is supposed to work. When I first switch the propane switch to the ON position, the red light on the switch panel lights up solid red. It stays that way as the igniter makes it's two or three tries, then stays on until I switch it off. This is, of course, different than it was (the red light didn't come on until the igniter was through trying).

Any more good ideas? I'm fresh out!

waninae39 · 09-04-2019, 02:17 PM

sounds like the gas is not going through the heater
no one else has had an issue with the dinosaur board

shopie · 09-04-2019, 02:28 PM

Vandals flipped on my hw switch with an empty hot water tank. The circuit board had to be replaced. Only problem we ever had with that.

GMFL · 09-04-2019, 02:30 PM

I agree. Rob, Have you cleaned the jet. Sounds like a propane “flow” problem.
I’m not sure about the fail light function with the Dino board. But call Jim at dinosaur he can help with that question.

RFP · 09-04-2019, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waninae39

sounds like the gas is not going through the heater
no one else has had an issue with the dinosaur board

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMFL

I agree. Rob, Have you cleaned the jet. Sounds like a propane “flow” problem.
I’m not sure about the fail light function with the Dino board. But call Jim at dinosaur he can help with that question.

OK, I 'cracked open' the propane connector at the input to the gas valve and purged all the air out of the line. Then, after waiting a good long time for the propane to dissipate, tried again. No change.

Before I start disassembling stuff to check for clogs or whatever, can someone tell me it the gas valve "clicks" when it turns on? I'm getting the proper red LED on the Dinosaur board telling me that the gas valve is "open," but, if I put my fingers on the gas valve, I cannot perceive and open/close click or feel... nothing.

Your thoughts?