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Old 11-30-2013, 08:35 PM   #1
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Water heater install

one of the previous owners did a hack job where the old water heater was located and just covered the hole. i had to custom fit and flash the atwood electric/lp gas 6 gallon water heater today.

didn't turn out too bad
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:53 PM   #2
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So which is the before and after?
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:18 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMore View Post
So which is the before and after?
Harsh!

I'm guessing the "before" is the one with duct tape and a wavy piece of sheet metal, and the "after" is the one with the standard Atwood door and no duct tape.
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:06 AM   #4
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Retraction

Oooh, my bad. I couldn't see much difference, if any, other than the appearance of a grill on my smartphone; magnified on a pad my response looks cruel.
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Old 12-01-2013, 01:08 AM   #5
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i thought it was damn funny

the before photo has no large curved window and a larger than a walmart shopper hole in it's side covered with flashing and duct tape.

the after has a new curved glass window installed and a water heater/flashing filling the hole

i need to get a section of skin for the lower flashing and also a piece of original blue trim to fill the gap.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:50 AM   #6
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I'm installing an Atwood as well. What is the best sealant to use for this?
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Old 02-15-2014, 10:27 AM   #7
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I used the Parabond number that replaces Vulcum and it worked fine. Messy though,
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:18 PM   #8
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its always been suggested to use aluminum color sikaflex for sealing roof vents and anything else needing sealing.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:33 PM   #9
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Looks good. I have to replace the HWH on mine too. I'll probably be getting the same kind as you, although maybe the 10 gallon. Ours still has the original door that is vented and is flush with the rest of the trailer, so hopefully we won't need to make any door modifications.
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Old 02-21-2014, 04:25 AM   #10
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Thanks for the replies! Picket up some puttytape and some vulkem (equivelant) on vintage trailers.com
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:04 AM   #11
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they sell grey sikaflex at home depot for $7 a tube
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:43 PM   #12
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more details on the installlation, please....

It looks like the Atwood on our '81 is leaking. I have contemplated installing a new one myself, but I am stopped dead in my tracks when I see the grey and black flex tubing that is connected with clamps.
Would really appreciate some input as to how you reconnect the lines once the new unit is installed.
Also....do all Atwood units have the input/output connections in the same location, or do you have to do a lot of fabricating?

Thanks for looking...
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:46 PM   #13
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i haven't hooked up my electric/propane atwood h20 heater yet so this info will come in handy

good luck on your install and hopefully someone knowledgable chimes in
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:09 PM   #14
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Just ordered the Atwood GC6AA-10E and should get it next week.
When we get return home on Saturday, will pull the old one out.
...still waiting to hear what is the best way to sever the old lines without making the job harder than necessary.
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