Water heater drain plug

[cjrdad]

Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM

Two 45 degree Street Ells and a ¼ turn Boiler Valve. Attach hose, drain into container.


No tools, no cross-threads, no spare plug, no spills, effortless...


BTW, If you worry that the dissimilar metals will ruin your tank, go Tale with the Old Wives, or replace first Street Ell with stainless nipple and then elbow...

This is a great "work-around" that can be configured to suit various conditions.

I want to do this.
Do you have the parts info?
Thank you!

[ALUMINUMINUM]

Say this to any employee at the hardware store...

"Two 1/2" 45 degree Street Ells and a ¼ turn Boiler Valve"


glad to help

[OTRA15]

KISS?

Just get extra plastic drain plugs, the correct wrenches for taking it in and out [ crucial ! ], clean out the tank's internal threads if necessary with a tap, and insert a fresh new plug carefully.

No prob!

And no complicated add-ons, which can also fail and require maintenance. If a plastic plug gets cross-threaded, throw it out immediately and start with a new one, being more patient and using the correct wrench(es). [ Minimize operator error ]

Keep It Simple, Stu.

[FishByFly]

I love all these great ideas that allow easy draining. However, I install an anode rod at dewinterizing and remove at wintering. It is amazing how much it erodes each year.

[CruizinDux]

I'm with Peter. KISS. I thought about various drain valves but I like to flush our tank out with a wand so would have to remove any hardware anyway.

b

Originally Posted by OTRA15

KISS?

Just get extra plastic drain plugs, the correct wrenches for taking it in and out [ crucial ! ], clean out the tank's internal threads if necessary with a tap, and insert a fresh new plug carefully.

No prob!

And no complicated add-ons, which can also fail and require maintenance. If a plastic plug gets cross-threaded, throw it out immediately and start with a new one, being more patient and using the correct wrench(es). [ Minimize operator error ]

Keep It Simple, Stu.

[5150mike]

Our 2016 25RBT FC. With the Teflon plug always had a slow drip. But after installing this aluminum plug no more drip. You will also need 3/8 Allen wrenche Hope this helps the next person Mike

[CruizinDux]

Great approach, thanks for sharing. Our plastic one is showing signs of socket wear at the edge and was thinking of looking form something other then plastic.


b

Originally Posted by 5150mike

Our 2016 25RBT FC. With the Teflon plug always had a slow drip. But after installing this aluminum plug no more drip. You will also need 3/8 Allen wrenche Hope this helps the next person MikeAttachment 333758Attachment 333759Attachment 333760

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by 5150mike

Our 2016 25RBT FC. With the Teflon plug always had a slow drip. But after installing this aluminum plug no more drip. You will also need 3/8 Allen wrenche Hope this helps the next person MikeAttachment 333758Attachment 333759Attachment 333760

Mike,

I cant really tell from the pictures, is this a rubber expansion plug?

[5150mike]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Mike,

I cant really tell from the pictures, is this a rubber expansion plug?

No it's an aluminum plug just use Teflon tape.. most say do not mix copper plug with the aluminum tank, so I just found an aluminum plug only cost $5 for four plugs, and with a long 3/8 Allen wrenche makes install and removle a breeze Mike

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by 5150mike

No it's an aluminum plug just use Teflon tape.. most say do not mix copper plug with the aluminum tank, so I just found an aluminum plug only cost $5 for four plugs, and with a long 3/8 Allen wrenche makes install and removle a breeze Mike

Thanks, it appears an allen wrench would work better around the gas line than fiddling with a wrench on the hex plug.

[Camano20]

Where did you find your aluminum plug, that looks like a really good way to go.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Camano20

Where did you find your aluminum plug, that looks like a really good way to go.

The package in the pic says Summit Racing. Google them, they are a premier racing supply house.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Thanks, it appears an allen wrench would work better around the gas line than fiddling with a wrench on the hex plug.

The OEM plastic plug is very easy to remove if you use the correct 6-point deep socket with a 6” extension so that the 1/2” drive ratchet can clear everything.

The aluminum plug and aluminum heater tank may react galvanically, and “freeze” themselves together IMO, especially in areas with hard water, and in campgrounds with well water systems.

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Stick with the plastic plug and use the right tools.

Peter

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

Great approach, thanks for sharing. Our plastic one is showing signs of socket wear at the edge and was thinking of looking form something other then plastic.

b

Using the tools mentioned in the previous post will prevent rounding off the plug . . . emphasis on 6-point socket.

Peter

[5150mike]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

The OEM plastic plug is very easy to remove if you use the correct 6-point deep socket with a 6” extension so that the 1/2” drive ratchet can clear everything.

The aluminum plug and aluminum heater tank may react galvanically, and “freeze” themselves together IMO, especially in areas with hard water, and in campgrounds with well water systems.

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Stick with the plastic plug and use the right tools.

Peter

Mine was broke it leaked, 3 new plugs all of them with Teflon tape leaked on and off many times all of them leaked , I used a socket like your talking about it did not matter in my case this plug fixed it, that's is my experience I am just sharing with everyone.
Mike

[OTRA15]

Thanks Mike. Did you ever chase out the female threads in the heater with a tap, per earlier posts? You may have had a burr/flaw which caused the leaks IMO.

Also, in theory with pristine as-new threads and a new plastic plug, no Teflon tape should be needed, per the mfg. specs.

Peter

[5150mike]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Thanks Mike. Did you ever chase out the female threads in the heater with a tap, per earlier posts? You may have had a burr/flaw which caused the leaks IMO.

Also, in theory with pristine as-new threads and a new plastic plug, no Teflon tape should be needed, per the mfg. specs.

Peter

No sir I didn't try that, I will give both of those a try. I was camping when I noticed this (second time out ) I had 2 extra camco plugs for backup like I said they all leaked, so did a search for 1/2 plug and summit racing came up they was just up the road and it stopped the leak.. I will give both of your suggestion a try and report back thanks for the help Mike

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

The OEM plastic plug is very easy to remove if you use the correct 6-point deep socket with a 6” extension so that the 1/2” drive ratchet can clear everything.

The aluminum plug and aluminum heater tank may react galvanically, and “freeze” themselves together IMO, especially in areas with hard water, and in campgrounds with well water systems.

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Stick with the plastic plug and use the right tools.

Peter

Yeah, not so much....many of us have the gas line directly in front of the plug. I use a crows foot and ratchet, but it is frustratingly slow going. Aluminum on aluminum has very little galvanic reaction. Maybe just a bit, due to different alloys, but not enough to be concerned about, expecially if it is removed seasonally.

[OTRA15]

Thanks Rich, good points.

Peter

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Thanks Rich, good points.

Peter

Let me expand a bit. I recently had to replace the tank, due to a bonehead series of events, leading to freezing and cracking. Atwood (now Dometic) used only pipe thread dope to install all the various components in the tank. Pressure valve is brass in aluminum tank. After 12 years, it came out easily with no noticeable galvanic fouling. My old drain valve was brass and there was no issue there either. HOWEVER, I thought I would pull the electric element and save it for a spare (new tank came with one). It is a steel thread assembly in aluminum tank. Was NEVER going to come out. Corroded tight. I am not sure if they are all steel, but that is a horrible idea. Replace the tank with a element failure?????