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Old 03-19-2016, 05:06 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Aren't you assuming that you could in fact taste all poisonous materials?

I would not be surprised if the "no after-taste" water in your lines still contains traces of poisonous anti-freeze. Hope you don't consume or cook with that water.

Why take that risk when a proper winterization with air pressure obviates the need to use antifreeze?



PS -- The fact that regular antifreeze cannot be tasted is why so many dogs and cats die after drinking it, when humans carelessly leave it out in open containers of some kind. [edit -- and racoons, squirrels, and so forth . . . ]

PS2 -- Thanks for the comment about the water heater accomodating a bit of standing water in the bottom for the winter. Why a dog's water bowl is usually curved at the bottom . . .
Are we talking about the same thing?

Propylene glycol is also used in various edible items such as coffee-based drinks, liquid sweeteners, ice cream, whipped dairy products and soda.[13][14] Vaporizers used for delivery of pharmaceuticals or personal-care products often include propylene glycol among the ingredients.[5] Propylene glycol is used as a solvent in many pharmaceuticals, including oral, injectable and topical formulations.

Oh, and it's FDA approved. But I still flush it out.
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:14 PM   #44
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Sorry, I was obviously thinking of the wrong substance -- "glycol" threw me off.
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Old 03-19-2016, 07:54 PM   #45
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Slightly off topic, but I was told by an Airstream RV Tech that I should drain the hot water tank after every trip, unless going out again within two weeks. He said it helps keep bacteria from growing.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:44 PM   #46
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Slightly off topic, but I was told by an Airstream RV Tech that I should drain the hot water tank after every trip, unless going out again within two weeks. He said it helps keep bacteria from growing.
I've gone much longer than that and never had a problem.

If you last filled it from a municipal water source it probably has enough residual chlorine to last 6 months.
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Old 03-20-2016, 07:14 PM   #47
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markdoane; Tom, the only possible problem would be the crossover line going to the bypass valve. Unless you open the bypass valve while blowing out there could be water in the deadleg above the valve. If this freezes you may need to replace that short section. ]

Markdowne,I understand yours may be a little different than our, but on mine there are three connects: 1) the white cold supply that connects to the bypass, 2) the short flex hose that connects the BP to the HW distribution with presumably a backflow valve) and 3) the red hot water dist to the trailer. Are you referring to the 1st leg or the 2nd?

I had posted this to the 20 footers thread but think it may fit in this discussion too. I have been dealing with the dealer and JC as my hot LP drain under the WH was not accessible. They agreed and swapped out the LP drains. I took this opportunity to have them adjust the lines to/from the HWH gravity drain to the LP’s. When I winterized for the 1st time I finally disconnected # 1 at the BP valve so that it would drain completely…this was repeated a number of times as water would continually get caught in the obvious low spot image 7537.

One question that I had for JC is the short vertical heading down (Connector line?) in 7357 should maybe lifted a bit so that to flow by gravity. Their response was that it should be turned 180 vertical, which to me would make the small section a dead leg as opposed to the longer horizontal run that dips down in the picture.

When I showed this to the dealer their result was 7909, tweaking all three pieces of # 1. Now it all flows by gravity from both the WH back down to the LP drain unless there is an air lock in the top flex section #2 caused by a back flow device in the HW outlet. I suspect that is not the case. I also suspect that the new LP and the tweaking of the lines will make winterization much easier in the future.


Bob
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:35 PM   #48
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credit

Quote:
Originally Posted by VAtom View Post
Sorry I can't remember/credit the OP who used a flush brass plug.

http://goo.gl/wJjcZK

It's the bee's knees when you have a hex key drive and extension for your ratchet

http://goo.gl/xxD0B9

No more tight space/access problem
It was Jerhofer Post 13 Nice photos.
http://goo.gl/xrKd3f
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:23 AM   #49
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I had the Anderson Brass valve plug that I used on my 2014 FC28 but I forgot to take it off when I traded in the trailer, and now it seems that part is not available any longer.

I store and winterize the 27FB in my shop now, and I hate draining the water heater since the water is difficult to contain without using a large Rubbermaid container. Searching around, I found this really cool video, which documents how to rig up a simple drain hose/valve using three parts screwed together (don't forget to use Teflon tape on the threads).


Just ordered the parts on Amazon using the part numbers displayed, and will try this nifty solution out. Parts were $28. It will enable you to drain the water heater into a bucket instead of water leaking all over the side.
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:38 AM   #50
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Will you leave it attached full time?
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:15 AM   #51
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Made my own "drainer"

I'm cheep>>>

Bob
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:35 AM   #52
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Bob your link leads back here FYI, not to the "drainer" photo I think you meant to post.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:57 AM   #53
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Thanks for this...new owner and am CLUELESS..now, my goal is to figure out what works, what doesn't and how to winterize the unit....I am planning a trip from Delaware to VA beach end of November..pretty sure I should get er done before I go...with my work trucks, you can push the tank winterization a bit as long as weather is not consistently freezing...have said that, pretty sure these rigs cannot be tested like that..
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:20 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Made my own "drainer"

I'm cheep>>>

Bob
......so 'made my own drainer' didn't show my milk carton McGuyver?

Bob
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“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:41 PM   #55
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Does anyone use an anode rod drain plug to help protect the water heater?
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:46 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FishByFly View Post
Does anyone use an anode rod drain plug to help protect the water heater?
I had the same concern when we got our Classic.....was informed that>>>>

Atwood, as in our Classic...no.

Suburban...yes?

Assume that was correct 'cuz in 14yrs no corrosion.

Bob
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