Water heater drain plug

[OTRA15]

Thanks mark for the heads up, not sure I did that, so I will watch when I "summerize."

Peter

[CruizinDux]

[QUOTE=OTRA15;1764282]Bob...... What air pressure did you run when you winterized? I stayed around 30 but the owners manual allows a higher pressure I believe, so next time maybe try a higher pressure...... ]

For the last W's I used a 12V inflator (since I have no power at storage) and the gauge showed 34 to start. The pressure I expect is fine but it may not provide sufficient flow. I now have a 5 gal twin tank compressor so that will all change. I just need to bring Blue home to do it.

[The AS quality control appears so random in recent model years, that your lines under the shower may also not drain by gravity?]

uhh spot on. I do open all LP's and faucets to begin with...nose up..nose down to get as much water out as possible, before I connect the air, so pressure buildup it less of a concern. I'll set the new system at 40 probably. I do believe the new plumbing will help too.

[I was about to "summerize" but now the NWS is calling for frost and 3-5" of snow over the weekend. Yikes . . . ]

Burrrrritos for so late in the year. You must be chomping at the bit with summerize fever. Like you said, it's just around the corner.

stay warm

Bob

[Siegmann]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Aren't you assuming that you could in fact taste all poisonous materials?

I would not be surprised if the "no after-taste" water in your lines still contains traces of poisonous anti-freeze. Hope you don't consume or cook with that water.

Why take that risk when a proper winterization with air pressure obviates the need to use antifreeze?



PS -- The fact that regular antifreeze cannot be tasted is why so many dogs and cats die after drinking it, when humans carelessly leave it out in open containers of some kind. [edit -- and racoons, squirrels, and so forth . . . ]

PS2 -- Thanks for the comment about the water heater accomodating a bit of standing water in the bottom for the winter. Why a dog's water bowl is usually curved at the bottom . . .

Are we talking about the same thing?

Propylene glycol is also used in various edible items such as coffee-based drinks, liquid sweeteners, ice cream, whipped dairy products and soda.[13][14] Vaporizers used for delivery of pharmaceuticals or personal-care products often include propylene glycol among the ingredients.[5] Propylene glycol is used as a solvent in many pharmaceuticals, including oral, injectable and topical formulations.

Oh, and it's FDA approved. But I still flush it out.

[OTRA15]

Sorry, I was obviously thinking of the wrong substance -- "glycol" threw me off.

[Steamy1]

Slightly off topic, but I was told by an Airstream RV Tech that I should drain the hot water tank after every trip, unless going out again within two weeks. He said it helps keep bacteria from growing.

[Siegmann]

Originally Posted by Steamy1

Slightly off topic, but I was told by an Airstream RV Tech that I should drain the hot water tank after every trip, unless going out again within two weeks. He said it helps keep bacteria from growing.

I've gone much longer than that and never had a problem.

If you last filled it from a municipal water source it probably has enough residual chlorine to last 6 months.

[CruizinDux]

markdoane; Tom, the only possible problem would be the crossover line going to the bypass valve. Unless you open the bypass valve while blowing out there could be water in the deadleg above the valve. If this freezes you may need to replace that short section. ]

Markdowne,I understand yours may be a little different than our, but on mine there are three connects: 1) the white cold supply that connects to the bypass, 2) the short flex hose that connects the BP to the HW distribution with presumably a backflow valve) and 3) the red hot water dist to the trailer. Are you referring to the 1st leg or the 2nd?

I had posted this to the 20 footers thread but think it may fit in this discussion too. I have been dealing with the dealer and JC as my hot LP drain under the WH was not accessible. They agreed and swapped out the LP drains. I took this opportunity to have them adjust the lines to/from the HWH gravity drain to the LP’s. When I winterized for the 1st time I finally disconnected # 1 at the BP valve so that it would drain completely…this was repeated a number of times as water would continually get caught in the obvious low spot image 7537.

One question that I had for JC is the short vertical heading down (Connector line?) in 7357 should maybe lifted a bit so that to flow by gravity. Their response was that it should be turned 180 vertical, which to me would make the small section a dead leg as opposed to the longer horizontal run that dips down in the picture.

When I showed this to the dealer their result was 7909, tweaking all three pieces of # 1. Now it all flows by gravity from both the WH back down to the LP drain unless there is an air lock in the top flex section #2 caused by a back flow device in the HW outlet. I suspect that is not the case. I also suspect that the new LP and the tweaking of the lines will make winterization much easier in the future.


Bob

[VAtom]

Originally Posted by VAtom

Sorry I can't remember/credit the OP who used a flush brass plug.

http://goo.gl/wJjcZK

It's the bee's knees when you have a hex key drive and extension for your ratchet

http://goo.gl/xxD0B9

No more tight space/access problem

It was Jerhofer Post 13 Nice photos.
http://goo.gl/xrKd3f

[Lara Me]

I had the Anderson Brass valve plug that I used on my 2014 FC28 but I forgot to take it off when I traded in the trailer, and now it seems that part is not available any longer.

I store and winterize the 27FB in my shop now, and I hate draining the water heater since the water is difficult to contain without using a large Rubbermaid container. Searching around, I found

this really cool video

, which documents how to rig up a simple drain hose/valve using three parts screwed together (don't forget to use Teflon tape on the threads).


Just ordered the parts on Amazon using the part numbers displayed, and will try this nifty solution out. Parts were $28. It will enable you to drain the water heater into a bucket instead of water leaking all over the side.

[Llittle54]

Will you leave it attached full time?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Made my own "drainer"

I'm cheep>>>

Bob

[OTRA15]

Bob your link leads back here FYI, not to the "drainer" photo I think you meant to post.

[weather command]

Thanks for this...new owner and am CLUELESS..now, my goal is to figure out what works, what doesn't and how to winterize the unit....I am planning a trip from Delaware to VA beach end of November..pretty sure I should get er done before I go...with my work trucks, you can push the tank winterization a bit as long as weather is not consistently freezing...have said that, pretty sure these rigs cannot be tested like that..

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Made my own "drainer"

I'm cheep>>>

Bob

......so 'made my own drainer' didn't show my milk carton McGuyver?

Bob

[FishByFly]

Does anyone use an anode rod drain plug to help protect the water heater?

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by FishByFly

Does anyone use an anode rod drain plug to help protect the water heater?

I had the same concern when we got our Classic.....was informed that>>>>

Atwood, as in our Classic...no.

Suburban...yes?

Assume that was correct 'cuz in 14yrs no corrosion.

Bob

[JCWDCW]

If your tank is aluminum, the anode will do little or nothing. Aluminum is self protecting by it's own oxide coating until a high pH environment attacks it...unlikely in a water tank. Zinc is more noble than aluminum so it would give galvanic protection...question is, does aluminum really need it in an RV environment...probably not!
JCW

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by JCWDCW

Zinc is more noble than aluminum so it would give galvanic protection.

Less noble. The less noble metal corrodes while protecting the more noble metal. The ultimate noble metal being gold, which does not corrode.

Zinc and magnesium are both sacrificial anodes for aluminum.

But in any event, the tank on an Attwood water heater is made of steel with an aluminum lining, so no anode rod is required. In fact, the EPA's Secondary Drinking Water Standards identify zinc as a contaminant in drinking water, with a maximum permissible level of 5 milligrams per liter. So don't add a zinc anode that you don't need.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by FishByFly

Does anyone use an anode rod drain plug to help protect the water heater?

Some water heaters are made from stainless and don't need an anode. Some are made of aluminum and do.
If you remove the drain plug and there's a worn anode on it, then replace it with the same.

(I may have gotten the materials backwards, but the concept is that not all water heaters need a sacrificial anode rod)

[JCWDCW]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

Less noble. The less noble metal corrodes while protecting the more noble metal. The ultimate noble metal being gold, which does not corrode.
Zinc and magnesium are both sacrificial anodes for aluminum.

You're right!
I know that and as soon as I read this up date I saw it...Chem Eng and all...
I was rushing to answer...shouldn't do that

Did not know the Atwood heater is aluminum lined. Thanks for this info!
JCW