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Old 03-16-2016, 06:26 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by OARfan View Post
Anyone know what size socket to use to unscrew your water heater drain plug? It's for a 2015 23D. Thanks
Having a good socket set (up to 1") is a good tool for any trailer to have, and would cover the socket you need plus assorted extensions, as mentioned already. Can't imagine going on the road without such a set, plus many other tools.



PS Maggie, really? Surprised you could loosen the drain plug at all, without rounding off the corners mercilessly!
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:47 PM   #16
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I did a slightly different approach, after removing the plastic plug I got a petcock and a reducing bushing. Installed and now it just takes a turn and it drains. If you aren't familiar with a petcock, look at your hot and cold water low point drains, petcock.
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:24 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
15/16th.???
I've successfully NEEDED a 1" socket 6 point on an 8" extention to remove/install the plug.
It's a short socket that just clears the gas line.
Ran into the 15/16" and 1" problem myself. Turned out one size was an OEM Atwood plug, the other an aftermarket plug sold in many RV parts stores.
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:18 AM   #18
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Flush & drain....

Bob

Hey Bob, is that an air line connected to the PRV in the first image? When you winterize do you also pressure up from the PRV connection as well as the city water?

My experience is that's a bit of a challenge getting all the water out of the WH even with the plug removed, when pumping from the CW connection. I expect this connection may help.

Bob

p.s.to remove the plug I use a socket with a 6" extension and the teflon in a tube. Th socket allows for a straight shot connection to the limited surface if the plastic plug. I'm thinking of converting to a brass NPT plug.
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:05 AM   #19
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Needle nosed pliers were what I could get in there.


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Old 03-17-2016, 05:33 AM   #20
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Using a plastic plug with teflon tape ensures that no damage can be done to the water heater's internal female threads. Extra plugs are inexpensive to have on hand.

Keep It Simple Stu . . .
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:34 AM   #21
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Needle nosed pliers were what I could get in there.


Maggie
Gotcha, sorry AS made it so inaccessible on your Interstate! Hope you carry a spare plug or two . . .

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Old 03-17-2016, 05:46 AM   #22
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. . .
My experience is that's a bit of a challenge getting all the water out of the WH even with the plug removed,
. . .
As the last step of winterization (using air to blow out all the lines), you can blow out any water remaining in the water heater with the drain plug removed and PRV closed. Any small amounts of water still at the bottom of the heater will come out, even if they might not have by gravity alone IMO. [with all other faucets etc. closed]
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:21 AM   #23
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I do carry a spare plug, as you don't pick one of these up just anywhere.

One of those things that should be in all of our tool kits.


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Old 03-17-2016, 07:32 AM   #24
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I do carry a spare plug, as you don't pick one of these up just anywhere.
I find them at any hardware or plumbing supply store.
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:37 AM   #25
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We've had trouble finding the right size, even in a hardware store....recall a nice young man in Natchitoches, LA, taking us from his hardware store to a plumbing supply place....where we bought 2.

If one is in rural America, it is good to have an extra on hand.


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Old 03-17-2016, 08:20 AM   #26
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I use a 15/16" flexible ratchet wrench I found online for $20:
Click image for larger version

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The adjustable head lets me clear the bit of duct right above the plug:
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:20 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
Hey Bob, is that an air line connected to the PRV in the first image? When you winterize do you also pressure up from the PRV connection as well as the city water?

My experience is that's a bit of a challenge getting all the water out of the WH even with the plug removed, when pumping from the CW connection. I expect this connection may help.

Bob

p.s.to remove the plug I use a socket with a 6" extension and the teflon in a tube. Th socket allows for a straight shot connection to the limited surface if the plastic plug. I'm thinking of converting to a brass NPT plug.

Bob,

Yes..... the MacGyver set-up uses air to help purge the tank. Look close...you can see that the nozzle is wired open. The compressor in the garage can supply a steady 30psi to help clean the tank.

I do use it to purge the supply lines when Winterizing....you can see the white CW connector.





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Old 03-17-2016, 10:35 AM   #28
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Thanks Bob. Looks like it's an easy setup. I may go in that direction. The last winterization I had to continually turn the fwd LP drain on/off, to get the last of it out. Not sure if it was in the tank or the line. With the new LP drains at the end of the line (vs in line) and the change to gravity flow, I'm hoping this will correct the issue.

Bob
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