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Old 01-22-2012, 04:23 PM   #1
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Water Heater Drain

In my 2011 Flying Cloud 25FB, I had my water heater bypassed during the winter and when I connected city water and turned the bypass valve off (full water flow to heater) the drain under the trailer from the water heater constantly drains at full pressure. I don't understand what is going on! Anyone got a clue? We're' leaving on a trip tomorrow and kinda need hot water. Also, after 3 months in storage, is there anything I need to do to the refrigerator or water heater to restore propane usage. My water heater has electronic ignition but I'm not sure about the refrigerator.
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Old 01-22-2012, 04:51 PM   #2
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If you winterized your trailer, you must have opened the drain valve or removed the drain plug on the water heater. Sounds to me like you need to replace the plug or close the drain valve.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:10 PM   #3
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If you didnt drain your water heater when you bypassed it, it may have froze and split.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:12 PM   #4
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I did winterize the water heater by removing the drain plug (inside the water heater access door) and draining the tank. That plug is not leaking. The water is coming out the white hose under the trailer full force, as if the water is simply being diverted out the bottom when the bypass valve is opened. What causes water to drain out of the hose under the trailer?
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:28 PM   #5
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My '08 may be plumbed similar to yours. I have a 4th valve below the 3 bypass valves. It serves as a low point drain for the cold water inlet to the water heater. During winterizing, I open that valve and any remaining water drains out a stub pipe that exits though the floor and belly. If that valve was left open, water will run out that pipe at full force when the system is connected to water pressure. Check that valve. The valves pictured are set for normal operation.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlanford View Post
...<snip<.... Also, after 3 months in storage, is there anything I need to do to the refrigerator or water heater to restore propane usage. My water heater has electronic ignition but I'm not sure about the refrigerator.
I don't think you have to do anything to your refrigerator other than turn it on and let it get cold ahead of time... I'd make sure it is working on both shore power and propane and that it switches back and forth successfully. (If set on "auto" it will run on electricity if you are plugged into shore power... Disconnect from shore power and it should switch automatically to propane...you'll hear it click and fire up a few seconds after you disconnect the shore power.)

On the water heater, once the water drain issue is resolved, be sure to fill the water heater with water before turning on the water heater. You can do this by turning on the hot water at an inside facet and using either the water pump from your fresh water tank or city water...that will draw water into the water heater reservoir...it may take a bit of time for the water heater tank to fill before water comes out of the faucet... once you have running hot water (which will actually be cold water at this point) you can turn the water heater on.
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Old 01-22-2012, 05:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlanford
... Also, after 3 months in storage, is there anything I need to do to the refrigerator or water heater to restore propane usage. My water heater has electronic ignition but I'm not sure about the refrigerator.
The fridge has an automatic ignition system also. Open your gas tank valves, then light a stove burner. It may take a few tries, you're trying to purge any air from the gas lines. Once the burner is steady, you can turn it off, then see if your furnace fires up, it may also take a couple tries. Once that is working and you've got the water heater issue resolved and full of water, switch it on in gas mode. Again, more than one attempt might be in order. Now, turn on the fridge and select LP mode. If yours doesn't give you a choice, disconnect the shore power to force it into LP mode. Give it a few minutes then carefully feel the the lower end of the chimney. It can get pretty hot. If it is warm it's working. If you know just where to look, you may be able to see the burner, but it's pretty well enclosed for safety and to keep buffeting breezes from blowing it out.
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:00 PM   #8
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If my memory serves correctly, there are "hot" and "cold" water drain petcocks under the body of my AS, within a foot of each other. You might check to see if "Silver Goose" response helps, otherwise, you might check on the "hot" and "cold" drains mentioned herein.
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:11 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info on firing-up the water heater and refrigerator. And here is a photo of my hot water heater bypass valve. It's the only valve according to the owner's manual. Here is a picture of my bypass valve and water heater. It appears that the piping on the far side of the valve turns 90 degrees thru the floor and aligns with the white drain hose under the trailer. So it seems like once the bypass valve is open, the full stream of city water is being diverted out of that white hose. I did remove the drain plug from the water heater and drained all the water that would come out during winterizing in the fall, so I don't feel like I did anything wrong. Any other ideas?
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:22 PM   #10
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Looks like a drain valve in your pic. Maybe it is bad and just won't close. When you turn it clockwise. Does it just keep turning? Is the handle spinning on the valve stem?
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:34 PM   #11
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This is an excerpt from the 2011 Flying Cloud Owner's Manual. It shows that the 25FB should have 3 bypass valves in the common H configuration. None of the manuals I've seen have ever shown or mentioned the 4th drain valve seen in the photo I posted earlier. The pipe on the outlet side of my valve makes a 90° turn down to exit the trailer. It is left closed except to drain that line.

Is the other side of the water heater accessible from the inside, maybe through a cabinet? Or behind the bed? Airstream does make production changes that aren't always reflected in the manual. The 3 valve bypass is the most common method. I could be wrong but I have a feeling there are 3 more in there someplace.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:24 AM   #12
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This is the same page from the 2012 manual. It sounds like what you are describing. It shows a single bypass valve... Hopefully someone else who has this arrangement will chime in.
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:28 AM   #13
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Our Classic has a low water drain in the streetside rear storage compartment.

It has been "nudged" open by stuff move'n 'round.

Bob
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:32 AM   #14
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The low point drain next to the water heater is open, either because it was left open, or because the valve is faulty. Try turning the valve 90 degrees, or so the handle is oriented to a 90 degree angle to the water line, and try it again.
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