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Old 04-11-2009, 08:24 AM   #15
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1977 31' Sovereign
Manchester , New Hampshire
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What if you drain water for the winter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie View Post
Here is the info off the company website:

RV-500 Accessories
Wind Protection Fan #1703
The RV-500/501 can be affected by swirling or gusting winds.
Gusting winds may affect the consistency of the water temperature.
Slide-out compartments that are on the same side as the water
heater will create turbulences. If you have a slide-out room on the
same side as the water heater you need the Wind Protection Fan. In
some circumstances, the internal wiring can become singed.
If you have a slide-out room or use your RV where wind gusts are
common such as the desert or shore areas or use your RV at high
altitudes, the Wind Protection Fan is strongly recommended. The
Wind Protection Fan can be easily retrofitted.


_______________________________________________
Cold Weather Package #1966 (includes #1703 Wind Protection
Fan)
Instantaneous water heaters only come on when you turn on the hot
water tap. Therefore, anytime the temperature drops to 32˚F (0˚C),
they are susceptible to freeze damage. The RV-500/501, however,
will turn itself on* for short periods of time as the temperature
approaches freezing. This will protect the unit down to temperatures
of 20˚ F (-6˚C). If it will be used in temperatures lower than this the
Cold Weather Package is required.
The Cold Weather Package includes heating wire with a plug-in,
insulation and the Wind Protection Fan. The Cold Weather Package
will protect the RV-500/501 at temperatures as low as -20˚F (-
29˚C).**
The Cold Weather Package is a factory installed option.
*If power and gas are left on.
** If plugged in and the power and gas are left on.


My guess is that if you RV in the winter where the outside temp will reach freezing, then you need the cold weather package. This also begs the question that if you boondock in temps at or below freezing, it would seem to me with the cold weather package you'd need to have ample power to run this long term.
If you blow out water you should not have a problem correct?
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:55 AM   #16
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. , Illinois
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That is correct, but if you are using the unit in freezing temps, then are you really going to go out and blow out the unit after each use? If you are not, nor are you ever going to use this in 32F or lower, then yes, simply blow it out at the end of each season similar to what each of us frozen tundra dwellers do every year.

Since this is not like a tank heater that stays warm and is an on demand, water will stay in the heater and not be heated until a call for hot water is made. That means that water will sit in that unit, even though it does do trickle heat when it is cold. The company seems to be saying that the trickle heat in low temps is not good enough for 32F or below, and thus the need for the cold package?
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Old 04-11-2009, 09:20 AM   #17
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1977 31' Sovereign
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Ok what if trailer is heated ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie View Post
That is correct, but if you are using the unit in freezing temps, then are you really going to go out and blow out the unit after each use? If you are not, nor are you ever going to use this in 32F or lower, then yes, simply blow it out at the end of each season similar to what each of us frozen tundra dwellers do every year.

Since this is not like a tank heater that stays warm and is an on demand, water will stay in the heater and not be heated until a call for hot water is made. That means that water will sit in that unit, even though it does do trickle heat when it is cold. The company seems to be saying that the trickle heat in low temps is not good enough for 32F or below, and thus the need for the cold package?
What if when you use it your using heat and when not using the heat you blow out water. What I am really going to be using the trailer for is a place to stay when i go snowmobling for like the weekends or vacation. I purchased the bigger furnace also 40000 btu which branches off to all three tanks to keep heated and has a vent in bathroom .I could also isolated the HWH so i can just blow that out making it easyier install of draining whole system. I have run all PEX throught the trailer.
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:26 PM   #18
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Spanish Fork , Utah
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RV500 Tankless water heater

I just installed a RV500. It works fine when the access door is off, but won't stay lit when the door is on. Can anyone tell me how to correct this problem?
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:37 PM   #19
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1958 22' Custom
Paradise , California
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I'm getting ready to buy a tankless hot water heater for my 1958 Flying Cloud. Looking at both the Girard and Precision models, which differ in price range considerably (Girard 650$ vs Precision 1,000$)

Anyone out there have any recommendations? Thanks! Ann
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:04 AM   #20
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2014 27' FB International
Santa Rosa , California
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Tankless Water Heater replacement

Thanks for these insights. Has anyone replaced the existing water heater in a newer model, i.e. 2014 International 28'. We have it torn apart for a remodel and would like to change the existing one out.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:35 PM   #21
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Naples, FL , Hood River, OR
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I did my PT RV-500 on my then new '06' 19CCD. I had to remove about an inch and a half from the top skins, and it fit right in.

It took longer to get up the courage to cut the inner/outer skins than it took to install the entire unit.

It worked flawlessly for 6 years, when I sold the trailer.
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Old 05-18-2014, 12:20 AM   #22
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1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
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Using Tankless water heater, possibly ventless type

I installed a 7 GPM residential propane unit. It works well, but it would be a tough install as a retrofit.

The cost was over 100 less than the Girard.
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