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Old 04-27-2004, 02:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
That type of water leak is coming from the "high pressure pop off valve."

It is also called the 111 valve around the Airstream lingo.

Simply replacing it solves the problem.

Some owners choose to cap that valve off. Not very wise, but that is their choice.


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We just bought one from Andy on Friday, put it on over the weekend (along with the new front window seal and rockguard). Our old one would just pour water out, even with an RV inline restrictor that dropped the pressure down to 25 psi. It worked as advertised. Huzzah! We go camping now....

Edit: It only cost around $28, and took 10 minutes to R&R.
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Old 04-27-2004, 05:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtpalms
We just bought one from Andy on Friday, put it on over the weekend (along with the new front window seal and rockguard). Our old one would just pour water out, even with an RV inline restrictor that dropped the pressure down to 25 psi. It worked as advertised. Huzzah! We go camping now....

Edit: It only cost around $28, and took 10 minutes to R&R.
Ten minutes? Did changing it involve a pipe wrench...... or a hot wrench??
I may change mine just in case.
Does anyone have a picture of the "check valve" that prevents water from going out of the city water connection when operating on the water pump?
Mine is bad, and I just can't get a feel for what it looks like from the drawings in the service manual.
Guy
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Old 04-27-2004, 07:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGalt48
Ten minutes? Did changing it involve a pipe wrench...... or a hot wrench??
I may change mine just in case.
Does anyone have a picture of the "check valve" that prevents water from going out of the city water connection when operating on the water pump?
Mine is bad, and I just can't get a feel for what it looks like from the drawings in the service manual.
Guy
It involved one of those pipe spinner cutter thingies for copper pipe, and a butane hand torch for putting on the new part, I don't believe he used couplings for this one. I didn't watch the surgery (the surgeon was in cramped quarters), but in the time it took me to take the laundry off the line, jam it in the basket,and carry it to the house, he had it done. Mind you, he plumbs spas and pools, so he knows a bit about what he's doing.

Do you mean the check valve where the white hose connects to your trailer? It might be hard to photograph - mine is inside the pipe behind the hose coupling.
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Old 04-27-2004, 07:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGalt48
Does anyone have a picture of the "check valve" that prevents water from going out of the city water connection when operating on the water pump?
Guy,

The check valve should be the first thing in line after your supply hose. Since I have the whole aft section of plumbing sitting on the bench at present, my configuration is shown in the photo below.

I am looking for the regulator set pressure, and over pressure relief valve pressure. Does your manual happen to list these values?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 04-28-2004, 05:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcwilliams
Guy,

The check valve should be the first thing in line after your supply hose. Since I have the whole aft section of plumbing sitting on the bench at present, my configuration is shown in the photo below.

I am looking for the regulator set pressure, and over pressure relief valve pressure. Does your manual happen to list these values?

Thanks,
Tom
Hi Tom...
I'm wondering if my check valve is in the same location as yours or not. Is your trailer side or rear bath? My city water inlet connection is mounted on the side of the left rear frame rail near the bumper...maybe the check valve is in a different place on a rear bath model??
My Airstream is at the shop for a couple of days getting a new fridge installed, and the service manual is with it. I'll check it when I get it back and see if those pressure settings are listed.
Thanks
Guy
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Old 04-28-2004, 05:24 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtpalms
It involved one of those pipe spinner cutter thingies for copper pipe, and a butane hand torch for putting on the new part, I don't believe he used couplings for this one. I didn't watch the surgery (the surgeon was in cramped quarters), but in the time it took me to take the laundry off the line, jam it in the basket,and carry it to the house, he had it done. Mind you, he plumbs spas and pools, so he knows a bit about what he's doing.

Do you mean the check valve where the white hose connects to your trailer? It might be hard to photograph - mine is inside the pipe behind the hose coupling.
Well...now that explains the "ten minutes" thing!
The only thing I have in common with a real plumber is ......
"plumber's crack"!
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Old 04-28-2004, 05:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGalt48
I'm wondering if my check valve is in the same location as yours or not. Is your trailer side or rear bath? My city water inlet connection is mounted on the side of the left rear frame rail near the bumper...maybe the check valve is in a different place on a rear bath model??
Guy,
My Airstream, with rear bath, is a bit older than yours, and probably not as easy to hook utilities up.

To access water & power on mine, I remove the "One Stop Service Center" door above the bumper. This exposes alot of the plumbing seen in my picture above. I then just screw a hose onto the fitting.

On yours, I would think the check valve will be the first hard piece of plumbing any flexible line hooks to. But yours is so new....

Tom
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Old 04-28-2004, 07:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGalt48
My Airstream is at the shop for a couple of days getting a new fridge installed, and the service manual is with it. I'll check it when I get it back and see if those pressure settings are listed.
The pressure rating is not in the service manual. There is a plate on the top of the valve that has the opening pressure stamped on it.
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Old 04-28-2004, 07:35 AM   #23
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Manual not too comprehensive

Quote:
Originally Posted by thenewkid64
The pressure rating is not in the service manual. There is a plate on the top of the valve that has the opening pressure stamped on it.
Thanks Brett. The only problem is that I do not know what the pressures are supposed to be. It is possible that my overpressure relief valve was replaced at some point with the wrong one. I was hoping the shop manual would list the correct values.

Thanks for looking it up,
Tom
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Old 04-28-2004, 10:31 AM   #24
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I stand corrected - there is coupling at one end. It's still a pretty repair job, though:
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