Tankless Water Heater

[Lothlorian]

Hi:

Has anybody in this forum replace their water heater with a tankless water heater. If you have where did you put it. I see there are a few RV porpane water heaters on the market. One cost almost nine hundred dollars and I saw another one for 118 dollars. Both burn propane. If you have made this change and took pictures I would like to see what it looks like. My wife does not want me hanging a tankless water heater on the outside of the trailer.

Brian

[klattu]

For a bump...
I know not exactly info needed.

I have one in the house.
Is very room saving.
Instant hot water the second you open facet.
Never runs out of hot water...I turn it on first thing cold mornings, eat breakfast, and step into a steamy shower.

Only negative would be a slight drop in pressure.

[thecatsandi]

A little searching of previous threads will turn up lots of info.

[urbanfood]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

A little searching of previous threads will turn up lots of info.

yes, and note that precision temp is the only tankless made for rv use.

[Lothlorian]

I spent last night looking at different tankless water heaters. I also checked out the RV500 which is not in the budget. I wrote to a contact for this water heater Tankless Hot Water Heater - (eBay item 280173414358 end time Nov-20-07 16:11:27 PST)

and I am going to try to find a contact for this company eBay Motors: NEW RV TANKLESS INSTANT WATER HEATER NATURAL GAS (item 110193725648 end time Nov-21-07 19:45:00 PST)

I want to put the water heater in the same place the current one is located.

Thanks

SIU Bound

[lewster]

Originally Posted by SIU Bound

.....................................
and I am going to try to find a contact for this company eBay Motors: NEW RV TANKLESS INSTANT WATER HEATER NATURAL GAS (item 110193725648 end time Nov-21-07 19:45:00 PST)

I want to put the water heater in the same place the current one is located.

Thanks

SIU Bound

mr. SIU,

I have seen this Marey unit and although it is ISO9001 certified IT IS NOT CERTIFIED FOR RV USE BY THE RVIA!!!

This is a domestic unit that the e-bay seller is saying that can be used in an RV.

IT CAN NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It requires a top vent which the RV-500 does not and it is certainly not water-proof as the components in the RV-500 are. Thus, it is certainly not built for outdoor use, like in an Airstream.

The RV-500, while perhaps not within your budget, is the only tankless LP water heater that IS certified for RV use and is specifically made to be a direct replacement for a Suburban tank-type water heater. The other two RV approved tankless water heaters are diesel fired and also control the hydronic heating, costing in the thousands!!

I sell and install the RV-500 along with standard water heaters, and I can tell you that it performs very well. I have one in my 19CCD and had one in my previous 40' MoHo since 2000.

LP appliances are nothing to mess around with, and I would strongly suggest that you only use a unit that is built to withstand the rigors of traveling down the road, which the Marsey IS NOT!!!!!

Hope this clears the air on this subject.

[empresley]

Opinion:
We have a tank-less in our home (7 GPM) and based on the way it performs I would imagine that there is a very important variable with travel trailers that needs to be considered.
The variable relates to how you will deliver water to the tank-less unit.
City hook-up or your on-board fresh water tank.
With constant pressure from a city hook-up the tank-less will work great because you will be more inclined to let the water run, especially with the shower.
Conservation is usually the norm when using your 12v pump and fresh water supply. This is not the delivery system that is most favorable for a tank-less system.
If you do most of your “camping” in campgrounds with water and elec. hook-ups a tank-less should be ok. The shower is where the tank-less will shine if you are not worried about the amount of water consumption. As long as you don’t exceed the GPM the unit can supply, you could spend the day in the shower.
Lavatory and sink use is not where the tank-less system pays off. For the average household the pay off comes from not keeping the typical 40 gal. standing water heater hot 24 hours a day.
On demand systems save energy and energy costs by being off when not needed.

Summary: Where and how you use your Airstream should be a factor in choosing a tank-less system for your hot water needs. You might feel better abount being a water conservationist by using a standard RV water heater.

Hope this helps,
em.

[Lothlorian]

I think this is the best forum. Safety is number 1 and I appreciate your comments. Since I won't be camping anytime soon maybe I can put the RV500 on layaway somewhere.

Thanks again

SIU Bound

[Radman]

SIU,
I put one in the 72. Had a ten gallon unit in before the switch. Slipped into the same street side opening as the old one. PO stated 10 gallon unit worked fine. Yes, I replaced a perfectly good water heater for the tankless unit. Just had to have unlimited, almost instant hot water since we usually get full hook-ups anyway. I haven't plumbed it yet, I have other issues to deal with in my rebuild.
I totally agree with Lewster don't mess with something that is questionable. Life is too short. Precision Temp is a well run co. w/ excellent tech support. I wish more companies were run like theirs's.
Good luck.

[Foureagles]

Brian:

It might be worth thinking about how you use hot water, and just how you'd expect to benefit from a tankless heater. I can only relate that my old 10-gallon tank job gives me all the hot water this lone full-timer needs, and it stays constantly on just pilot. Of course, I embraced the concept of "Navy" showers long ago.

PS: The term "Navy shower" in no way implies the company of a shipmate. If anything, that generally uses more water.

[adonh]

Originally Posted by SIU Bound

Hi:

Has anybody in this forum replace their water heater with a tankless water heater. Brian

According to FedEx my new RV-500 water heater will be delivered sometime today. I have already removed the old Bowen from my 1976 31' Sovereign and will be installing the RV-500 during the next few days.

Removing the Old Bowen went well and I have taken pictures of the process. I will also be taking pictures of installing the new RV-500 and will post these along with other details as soon as the job is done.

Don

[Reganzo]

Hey Mr. Lewster,

will the rv500 fit into the opening where the old heater is located?

Regards,

Reganzo

[lewster]

Reganzo,

That depends......on which model you will be removing. The Atwood models are slightly wider and shorter than the RV-500 and it requires you to trim about 2-1/2" from the top of the opening (which is what I did when I installed the RV-500 into my 19CCD. It will, however, fit directly into the opening of a Suburban water heater.

Let me know if you have any other questions or need any other info on the RV-500.

[Jim Foster]

I have a Precision-temp in my 1965 Carevel. It was installed by the fellow who had the trailer ahead of me. I have had to contact Precision-Temp support three times. First time was to get a replacement metering valve as mine was cracked, probably from freezing. They sent one right out $60 or so. Another time the unit quit working and they couldn't get me out of it over the phone. I was in Jackson Center at the Airstream factory for a tour. In the morning we drove to the Precision-Temp factory in Cincinati? I think. Got there at 9 am. By 9:02 they had water hooked up and the guy who built my water heater was checking it out. Needed one new circuit board and three sensors. They charged me for the board.

For the most part, the unit works very well. On ocassion, it acts up, needing to have the 12v disconnected in order for it to "re-boot", then works properly. They told me that sometimes "stray signals" come through the 120v at an RV park, get through the converter to the 12v system and cause a problem. When that happens, I disconnect the 12v on the unit, unplug from the RV park, connect the 12v back up tpo the unit and it works just fine. I then plug the 120 back in and go about life. It's a computer thing.

In cold weather it comes on from time to time to keep from freezing. So, you never want to leave it without propane and 12v in cold weather.

[malconium]

I am giving serious consideration to using one of the tankless units by Excel. Check it out at the following website:

(1) GAS Appliances

It looks to me like it could be installed inside - even in a visible location. It is ventless so it would be a good idea to have a seperate carbon monoxide alarm just in case. I am intending to use the unit for hot water as well as to supply hot water for radiant heat tubing in the floor. I see that there are two models that I would have to chose from that I think would be fine. My guess is that the one for $299 would be just fine since I would more than likely have enough battery power for ignition. The $399 marine one sounds intersting though in that it uses water flow to generate electricity for itself. I am not sure that this would be worth the extra $100 though.

Anyway see what you think. I would also be interested to hear from anyone with direct experience with these units.

As a side note I have already covered over the old hole where my original water heater went and you can barely tell that there was an opening there.

Malcolm

[lewster]

Mal,

In your quest for a 'cheaper' tankless unit, you have found one that, IMHO, is just that......cheaper than the RV-500. It has NO RATINGS from RVIA, UL, CE, ISO or any other recognized rating body.

Just the works they use like 'remarkable' set off my warning bells. Once again, THIS UNIT IS NOT RATED FOR RV USE, and there is certainly nothing 'remarkable' about using DSI ignition technology that has been around for years! The manufacturers claims that it is a 'marine' unit are just that......no US Coast Guard certification either. What qualifies it for a marine rating....a little stainless steel in the casing? Believe me, if they HAD these ratings, they surely would highlite them on their website.

This is definitely a case of buyer beware. I would not use any LP appliance that does not have some type of rated label affixed to it. And where is this unit manufactured? I'll bet that it begins with C and ends with A!!!

After all, we want you to be around for a while and not have a mis-hap because you installed a unit that was not designed to be used in an RV!

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by malconium

I am giving serious consideration to using one of the tankless units by Excel. Check it out at the following website:
Malcolm

Lewster, What part of your advise are these people missing? Why would anyone want to install a gas fired water heating unit inside a trailer? Then they will want to install a second air conditioner to off set the heat. Yes an electric flash heater would work but one would most likely have to upgrade to a 50 amp service to support it.

[urbanfood]

Originally Posted by lewster

And where is this unit manufactured? I'll bet that it begins with C and ends with A!!!

i know... CANADA

[lewster]

Originally Posted by urbanfood

i know... CANADA

Not exactly what I had in mind.....EH!

OK, starts with 'CH'...and ends with 'A'

Do you know why Canadians are always saying....'EH'?

It's 'caue they spell their country C.....EH....N.....EH....D.....EH

[Safari Tim]

Originally Posted by Jim Foster

In cold weather it comes on from time to time to keep from freezing. So, you never want to leave it without propane and 12v in cold weather.

How cold can it be before we have to worry about these things?

It's been getting down to 32F here in N. Ca. the past few nights.