Shurflo Water Pump Problem

mello mike · 08-10-2009, 11:08 PM

Did some dry camping this past weekend and used the water pump for the first time in a few years (the refurb is nearly done and i wanted to try out some of the systems. The bathroom is partially in with only the toilet hooked up). The kitchen sink provides hot water but no cold water. The hot water pressure is sporadic and spits out lots of air. When the pump is turned on you can barely hear it and is not loud like normal. What could be the problem? Sounds like a filter? But if it's a filter why would that affect cold water?

Mexray · 08-11-2009, 02:11 AM

Sounds a lot like the pump's internals are bad...pumps need water to 'lubricate' the rubber bits inside - since it's be 'dry' for years, there might be 'dry aged' issues inside...

I'd also check to make sure you have a leak-free connection from the water tank's output, all the way up to the pump's inlet (including any inlet filter)...as you may have a leak there somewhere causing the air in the system...

As to no cold water...perhaps there's something plugging the cold side of the faucet...had that happen on our 78 - only it was the 'hot' side - had to replace the faucet as I couldn't 'back blow' whatever was causing the blockage...

Since your water system's been in-op for all that time, you may have other piping/air leakage problems in the pipes...

Just another 'fun time' with an older AS...

mello mike · 08-15-2009, 11:11 PM

Since the old water pump was at least 7 years old, I decided to replace it with a new Shurflo. Unfortunately, I still have the same problem. When I turn on the pump it runs continuously with a low hum and when I turn on the kitchen faucett nothing comes out. I know there's water in the tank, it's practically full. As for the connection to the water tank, I don't if it's good or not. It appears to be good. It's almost as if the intake hose is clogged. Unfortunately, a PO installed a kitchen counter that makes it very difficult to troubleshoot or inspect any of the fresh water tank connections.

Any advice for my next step?

Mexray · 08-18-2009, 07:57 PM

SELL, SELL, SELL...

Or not, in which case I still think you've got a problem with the hose between the tank and the pump...

Can you take the line off the pump and 'blow' through it to possibly hear the water bubbling in the tank?

Do you have an inline filter in this same line, in front of the pump that's possibly plugged, or is sucking air?

Have you tried to take the 'output' line off the pump, then turn on the pump to see if you get a good, steady flow out of the pump - if no flow, you know it's in the input line somewhere...

When we got our AS last year, the pump would just barely put out a trickle...I tracked it down to the plastic elbow coming out of the tank had a crack in it, and it was sucking enough air that the pump couldn't get a steady stream of water from the tank...

What happens when you hook an external water source to your AS? Do all the faucets then work properly? If so, I think it again points to the inlet line to the pump...

good luck...

mello mike · 08-19-2009, 05:39 AM

Thanks, Mexray. With the tank being full, is it safe to remove the hose connecting to the fresh water tank? I'm not sure where the intake connects to the tank. I've tried to drain the fresh water tank but no joy there either. I open the valve and nothing, not even a drop, comes out. But I agree. I think there's problem with the intake, too, but was thinking I should troubleshoot the drain problem first.

Minno · 08-19-2009, 08:12 AM

Mike,

Do you have a winterizing inlet to your water pump? It's an extra hose that allows you to add antifreeze to your system. Typically located on a tee between the water tank and the pump, with a shut off valve on the branch that goes to the hose that you stick into the anti-freeze bottle. If so, you can use that to check the operation of your pump. Also, make sure the valve is closed, and that it does really close, or you'll just suck air in through the hose instead of water from the tank. A quick check would be to stick your thumb over the end of the hose and see it it's sucking air.

I know Kay mentioned checking the drain hose under the trailer. If the drain is clear, it sounds like you have a broken drain valve. If it's an original valve, the washer inside may have glued itself to the seat, and actually detached from the stem. Unfortuately, the only way to know for sure is to take the valve apart, which sounds like will be difficult for you due to lack of access. Another worry is the full tank of water that will most likely come gushing out through the valve once you take the stem out to inspect it.

Do you have a small pump with a hose that you can stick down the water fill and pump out the water tank that way? One of those drill operated pumps from a hardware store would work, along with a length of vinyl tube.

Good luck!

Chris

mello mike · 08-19-2009, 11:47 AM

Thanks Chris,
Can I detach the intake hose from the water tank without my trailer taking a bath?

With the drain valve broken, I think my next course of action would be to drain the tank via the water pump, so I'm thinking about replacing the large black water intake hose that's on there now with a 1/2" clear vinyl hose.

Minno · 08-19-2009, 12:48 PM

The intake from the pump? Or the intake from the fresh water fill?

The hose to the pump should be at the bottom of the water tank if your set up is anything like mine. If you disconnect it, all water in the tank will flow out into your trailer. Same thing if you were to disconnect the drain line from the tank.

The fresh water fill hose should attach towards the top of the tank, so if you disconnect it, you might get some water out depending on how full your tank is. If the water level is below the bottom of the fresh water fitting, then you'll be ok.

Chris

mello mike · 08-19-2009, 11:35 PM

I think I might have found the problem with the intake side of the pump. See pic. Look at the black hose on the right. This hose is connected to the pump intake side. Well if you look at the hose closely, just above the propane line, you'll see a nail just to the right of the hose. Looks like this nail may have pierced the hose which would account for the pump continously running with a low hum regardless of what any faucett in the trailer is doing.

With my drain valve busted. Can I temporarily repair the hose with tape or something, so I can drain the tank via the new water pump? And does anybody else have this style black hose on their pump inlet side? I don't think this is standard but could be wrong. Never seen this type of hose on newer RVs.

Mexray · 08-20-2009, 12:48 AM

Your tank should be BELOW the floor level - so if you remove the input line to the pump, you won't get any flow....did you get any water out of that line when you changed pumps?

I see what you mean about things being tight under there....that may be the original hose...or a PO changed it and 'nailed' it causing your problem...

Let us know what finally cures things...

mello mike · 08-20-2009, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mexray

Your tank should be BELOW the floor level - so if you remove the input line to the pump, you won't get any flow....did you get any water out of that line when you changed pumps?

I see what you mean about things being tight under there....that may be the original hose...or a PO changed it and 'nailed' it causing your problem...

Let us know what finally cures things...

I didn't get any water from the intake side when I changed the water pump last weekend, so what you say is good news.

You guys have no idea how tight things are. I took these photos through the opening of a drawer. I had to remove this drawer just to gain access to the valves and to take these pics. I'm going to cut a large access hole in the wood separating this compartment with the compartment under the kitchen sink. Should make things easier to get to.

Thanks again, guys, for all of your help.

**Kevin245** · 08-20-2009, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mello mike

I didn't get any water from the intake side when I changed the water pump last weekend, so what you say is good news.

You guys have no idea how tight things are. I took these photos through the opening of a drawer. I had to remove this drawer just to gain access to the valves and to take these pics. I'm going to cut a large access hole in the wood separating this compartment with the compartment under the kitchen sink. Should make things easier to get to.

Thanks again, guys, for all of your help.

Hey Mike,

If you need to temporarily patch the hose, see if you can get a hose clamp around the leak. If so, wrap a piece of rubber over the hole, and secure it with the hose clamp.

As for the black hose. I would not use anything in a potable water system that's not specifically rated for food grade applications.

Take Care,

Kevin

Minno · 08-20-2009, 07:40 AM

Maybe a bit of plumbers putty held in place with some electrical tape would create enough of a seal to let you pump out the tank. Can you reach the suspected hole ok? Did you try sealing it with a finger to see if the pump would draw water?

Minno · 08-20-2009, 07:44 AM

btw - when I gutted Little Girl, I found a mixture of copper, black rubber, clear vinyl, opaque vinyl, and green rubber plumbing. The only stuff I know for sure was original was the copper. There were at least 10 patches in the copper lines to repair various leaks, and they used whatever they had handy or could find I guess.